I agree, if you can find a relatively low mileage one.
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Rehabbing 95 f150
- Thread starter alnen
- Start date
a explorer motor is the best
If you can find one that's under say 130K
And can hear it run and check the compression before you buy it
A lot of places will install a used engine
Most of em from their own stash of wrecked cars
If you re use your computer with the speed density system the replacement engine will have to be stock
Not modified
If you install a hotter cam or something. It won't run right
So make sure the engine is stock
Try these for for your lift... Gives you 1.5" and levels it out with the rear. RC makes good stuff.
http://www.roughcountry.com/levelin...cle_drive=3&vehicle_model=281&vehicle_year=81
http://www.roughcountry.com/levelin...cle_drive=3&vehicle_model=281&vehicle_year=81
Most important question and I forgot to ask it...
Do you really NEED a truck?
If you have to think about that the answer is no.
2k is going to go fast if you're paying someone to do the work. Used/junkyard engines are exactly that, so don't expect miracles or long life.
I'm all for fixing your truck but it might be time to take advantage of ridiculous prices and sell it as is. Ball park 3-6k for your truck depending on condition even with its issues as long as it not beat up.
So with the 2k your looking to put into the engine you could probably move up say 10 years +/- and into honda/toyota car.
Take a deep breath it's ok, your friends may mock you until they hear 25+ mpg compared to 12 -14.
Do you really NEED a truck?
If you have to think about that the answer is no.
2k is going to go fast if you're paying someone to do the work. Used/junkyard engines are exactly that, so don't expect miracles or long life.
I'm all for fixing your truck but it might be time to take advantage of ridiculous prices and sell it as is. Ball park 3-6k for your truck depending on condition even with its issues as long as it not beat up.
So with the 2k your looking to put into the engine you could probably move up say 10 years +/- and into honda/toyota car.
Take a deep breath it's ok, your friends may mock you until they hear 25+ mpg compared to 12 -14.
Every grown man needs some kind of truck. I need one right now.
Most likely you have a main bearing knock on a cold start and not a rod knock. That is fairly common with "high mileage" motors. Usually not a problem to worry about. Make sure you are using an oil filter with a back flow preventing check valve in it to prevent dry start ups. Fram stopped using these a few years ago. Puralator does use them.
Now that is a good piece of information- I didn't know that about the back flow preventer on the filter. I'd always used Fram in the past, but recently bought a Motorcraft at the last oil change because they were on the shelf and the PH2 that I was looking for was sold out.
I should probably have a look at Purolator filters.
I drove a 351 for years that had rod knock on start up and had 3 psi oil pressure when it was idling at operating temp
It was so worn out you could actually see the oil pressure spike up when you shifted gears
When you let off the throttle and all the load was removed from the crankshaft, the crank would raise up enough to actually change the oil pressure
A new engine plus labor is going to cost more than the truck is worth
Which is fine if you're gonna keep it long term
But with my luck , a illegal Mexican would hit it 3 weka after I spent a bundle on a new engine and your ins co is t going to give you a nickel more for the new engine
It was so worn out you could actually see the oil pressure spike up when you shifted gears
When you let off the throttle and all the load was removed from the crankshaft, the crank would raise up enough to actually change the oil pressure
A new engine plus labor is going to cost more than the truck is worth
Which is fine if you're gonna keep it long term
But with my luck , a illegal Mexican would hit it 3 weka after I spent a bundle on a new engine and your ins co is t going to give you a nickel more for the new engine
