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Why you should avoid NiB AR BCG’s

I'm not trying to argue with you or say that you 're wrong (or that the other source is wrong) about NiB. I appreciate the info and will check my few NiB BCGs based on what you shared. But when you have people asking what they should do about a newly purchased $2,000 rifle, it does seem like you've got some people alarmed over what could be a non-issue for many.

As for pointing out "where you told someone to replace their bold because, and only because ,it is coated in NiB", I would refer you to Post #3 in which you said the article was summarized as: "Don’t use NiB-coated BCG’s in your AR’s."

I (as well as many here) respect your knowledge and recognize that you shoot way more than most of us. I was simply saying that the premise that all NiB on BCGs is an opinion and many of us are running it with zero issues.

Read the entire thread. That one statement could be construed as such, and if so I did not mean it that way. I was being a bit of a smartass and spoke with tongue-in-cheek. Even then, I never told anyone to get rid of what they already had. I meant one thing and you interpreted it differently.

I went back and edited it to accurately reflect what I meant.

MULTIPLE times I say to check your bolts and keep using them if they’re fine. Here are my statements:

Nothing here means that every NiB BCG will be a turd and a failure. Two is such an infinitesimal number of the total number of NiB BCG’s in use that it cannot be an indicator one way or the other.

If folks here are using NiB bolts, do as the man said and check the headspace. If it’s good, keep using it. If it ain’t, quit using it. That’s a good takeaway from this post. An even better one is that for folks that will be buying BCG’s from this day on, take a hard pass at NiB.

If you have a set of Go-No Go gauges, check the head space. If the headspace is good, keep on running it.

If it isn’t good, check it again with a “known” bolt. If it still isn’t good, the problem is with the barrel.

If the headspace is a Go with the “known’ bolt, but not the NiB bolt, then the problem is with the NiB bolt. Replace it.

If this isn’t a serious-use gun, and it’s running so far, you can just keep on running it until it doesn’t anymore.

Whenever you’re cleaning it, inspect your bolt and carrier for chips and cracks. I do that with all my BCG’s, regardless of what they’re made of or coated with.
 
In his defense, you did title the thread "Why you should avoid NiB AR BCG’s"

Yes, AVOID. I never said, “If you already have an NiB coated bolt in your rifle and it’s been working fine throw it in the trash”.

If someone only read the title, misinterpreted it, and failed to read the post, in its entirety, to get the actual substance and message.......that’s on them.
 
I am trying to think if I have ever checked headspace on any AR I have ever built, fired or owned... LOL

If you stick with name brand parts, how likely are they to be out of whack enough to be dangerous or cause an issue? And if they are, what can you do besides buy new parts and throw parts at it till one passes? Is that how the AR platform is supposed to run?
 
I am trying to think if I have ever checked headspace on any AR I have ever built, fired or owned... LOL

If you stick with name brand parts, how likely are they to be out of whack enough to be dangerous or cause an issue? And if they are, what can you do besides buy new parts and throw parts at it till one passes? Is that how the AR platform is supposed to run?

If you are using quality parts, in my experience it’s pretty rare that you’ll have a headspace issue. I built AR’s for years without using gauges. Now that I have gauges, I check it, but none of mine have had a headspace issue. I get more use out of them for troubleshooting problem AR’s that folks bring to me.

If an AR fails headspace, I check the barrel with a known bolt, and check the bolt in a known barrel. That’s how I find the culprit. Then you replace the out of spec part.
 
What are the usual signs of a headspace issue?

First signs of excessive headspace is usually flattened primers. Extreme cases can lead to case separation. Generally nothing but poor accuracy and messed up brass will happen with excessive headspace. Worst case scenario, the bullet obstructs the bore when making the jump from the case to the lands, pressure spikes and you get a detonation. This splits the bolt carrier and ruptures the chamber, destroys the AR, and injures the shooter or others. That’s the Worst Case Scenario and it is very rare.

If the headspace is too short, usually the bolt won't close on a loaded round. In most cases, the bolt is far enough out of battery that the AR won’t fire. Worst Case Scenario for short headspace is when the bolt won’t go into battery, but it will go far enough to fire. If the hammer strikes the primer, and the bolt isn't completely in battery, the explosion can exit to the rear, causing significant damage and possible injury.

So, the usually warning signs are flattened primers (headspace too long), or the bolt won’t close and the gun won’t fire (headspace too short). Not catastrophic, but can effect reliability.
 
First signs of excessive headspace is usually flattened primers. Extreme cases can lead to case separation. Generally nothing but poor accuracy and messed up brass will happen with excessive headspace. Worst case scenario, the bullet obstructs the bore when making the jump from the case to the lands, pressure spikes and you get a detonation. This splits the bolt carrier and ruptures the chamber, destroys the AR, and injures the shooter or others. That’s the Worst Case Scenario and it is very rare.

If the headspace is too short, usually the bolt won't close on a loaded round. In most cases, the bolt is far enough out of battery that the AR won’t fire. Worst Case Scenario for short headspace is when the bolt won’t go into battery, but it will go far enough to fire. If the hammer strikes the primer, and the bolt isn't completely in battery, the explosion can exit to the rear, causing significant damage and possible injury.

So, the usually warning signs are flattened primers (headspace too long), or the bolt won’t close and the gun won’t fire (headspace too short). Not catastrophic, but can effect reliability.

Sooo, just shoot it until it grenades, is what I hear you saying? ;-)

I will look for a set of gauges... any suggestions on a cheap but adequate set?
 
Sooo, just shoot it until it grenades, is what I hear you saying? ;-)

I will look for a set of gauges... any suggestions on a cheap but adequate set?

Forster gauges from Brownell’s. You’ll want a Go, No-Go, and Field Gauge. The Go gauge you want is the 1.4646”. They’re always out of stock. I back ordered mine and waited for it.
 
I don't remember how much I paid for my 308 BCG. All I remember is it left a lasting impression on me about cost. Whatever it was the gun shoots under 1/2 MOA consistently. I have no complaints.
Building guns has it own clicks. Every builder is eager fo give you their way and swear it is gospel. I don't just stick with the norm I will branch out and try a part for my own tested opinion. I don't take it to extremes and by 69 dollar BCG's but I will try a 170 dollar NiB BCG. So far I have lucked out and found some good parts that cost a little less and perform just as good. A normal build cost me around 1.200 bucks. That's if I try not get cute on the rail. The 308 build was 1,800 plus w/ no optic. Both my 308 and 6.8 purpose built guns shoot stamp out sub 1/2 inch groups. Last trip the 6.8 laid down an.466.average. Not bad for a semi auto guns.
Moral of the story is branch out. Research the parts on other gun forums like SnipernHide ect.,ect.,ect...Do your own research and development. For the most part you get what you pay for. For example a 69 dollar BCG vs. a 179 dollar piece. That pretty much speaks for itself. Just don't be afraid to stray from the list of all of the most expensive gun manufacturers on the market. Just because it cost twice as much doesn't always mean it will perform twice as good. Sometimes that rings true like the ,69 dollar bcg
 
Just my 2 cents:

We use NiB bolts in all our guns. sold over 500 retail. Not a lot

We alos use them in our suppressed machine guns, 5.56, 7.62, 9x39, 9mm, .308.

Some have over 10,000 rounds through them.

Never had a breakage.

We use only tool craft or Aero Precision bolts.

Great write up.

I will have to go any check ours out now.....
 
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