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PSA 1911 build

This is where I am at the moment I have the Slide and Barrel Fitted to Frame (Barrel is the PSA Barrel), Trigger Fitted, Ejector Fitted, Sear and Hammer Fitted (Not Pictured).
Will Take some blending for the rear because the Ejector is back as stated but I am OK with Blending Later.
I ordered the EGW Beavertail Last night and got the shipping info today it should be here Monday too.
I noticed on the PSA website the Frames now say EGW cut Beavertail that is why I ordered one of their .250 Beavertails.
Will post pictures when it arrives after installation.

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I would imagine there is less fitting required with te PSA barrel on their slide and frame? How difficult was it?
 
I would imagine there is less fitting required with te PSA barrel on their slide and frame? How difficult was it?

Minor fitting was required on the barrel The link was to short for me for proper lockup so replaced the barrel link with an EGW link, and had to Polish the back side of the hood so it would Lock in without minor Binding (would have worked out of the box with around 50 rounds, it would have smoothed right up).
 
Minor fitting was required on the barrel The link was to short for me for proper lockup so replaced the barrel link with an EGW link, and had to Polish the back side of the hood so it would Lock in without minor Binding (would have worked out of the box with around 50 rounds, it would have smoothed right up).

Sounds good, The barrel bushing aspect of the build worries me.
 
Sounds good, The barrel bushing aspect of the build worries me.

Just so you know lock up was well within specs I just like the hole to be a little tighter.
I used the same link size just an EGW one because they are just a little tighter, Maybe that is what I should have said.
:)
 
RE: ejector
They should all be heat treated. Some will be mim and surface hardened, but they should be tool steel. A brand new 1/16" drill is the key. come through the frame from the right side, nice and easy. If it doesn't cut it, don't force it, it will at the very least mark the spot on the ejector leg that needs to be cut. You can always cut a small notch with a file at that spot.

@markj I had followed your advice on my ejector and it worked fine, went through, no problems. The one I did was a stainless Caspian. I picked up 2 Milwaukee 1/16" bits. When jjrock jjrock and I were working on his (an Ed Brown), I tried the first one and it just ran and ran, but I didn't run it long enough to work-harden it. Figured I probably picked the wrong bit, so tried the other, and same thing. Between both bits we barely dented the shaft on the ejector. It was certainly odd.
 
So I have to say... I really enjoyed the time and advice @markj and jglenn jglenn and others have offered up. I also really enjoyed the time spent working with jjrock jjrock on his build. I'm no pro like some guys here, but I really like the idea of paying it forward. I'll pass on what I've learned and enjoy helping others. One things I CAN help with is space. I've got a pretty decent shop-space. Maybe we could put together a build party for a day? Who would be up for something like that?
 
link fitting is pretty straight forward... simply measure from the link pin hole on the barrel to the bearing surface of the bottom lug in the lock up position. then start measuring links.. simply find a link with the same measurement between the holes.. install that link and then using your slide stop insure the link will rotate freely over the surface of the bottom lug.. if it binds in any area other than the lockup position smooth that off...

the link has one real function in life.. that is to unlock and pull the barrel down so the slide can move rearward... that's pretty much it..

on match barrels where we have a much tighter upper lug lockup, an easy test of the barrel / link installation is that when the gun is fully assembled leaving the slide stop free to rotate lock the pistol in it's full forward position and then rotate the slide stop back and forth.. it should have drag from the bottom lugs contacting the slide stop pin.. if not then you are "riding the link" meaning you are using the link to lock up the barrel and not the barrel lugs... this is a weak setup and not good for accuracy... honestly more "drop in" barrels ride the link..

everything in a drop in barrel is pretty much a compromise.. some are tighter than others...Bar-Sto and Wilsons come to mind as being much tighter than normal

fun stuff
 
jglenn jglenn - I did not pick up a drop in barrel. It's the match grade Wilson that didn't say drop in, what can I expect with that. Professional consultation? :)

Anyhow, as geezer geezer said, I've got some other aspects of the build to complete. Couple new parts should be in this week.

I echo bluesman2a bluesman2a 's remarks - thanks for everyone's advice, I'm enjoying this. And the buold party sounds like a fantastic idea!
 
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