PSA 1911 build

[markj]

The grip safety radius is a pretty common issue on frames that were meant for production guns. EGW makes a grip safety just for frames with a slightly over cut radius(under size). I believe its a .247" to help close up that gap. The other option, as Geezer already mentioned is going with a .220" radius. S&A sell a little .220 radius jig that is pretty in expensive and will allow you to recut the rear of the frame for a perfect fit. This was the problem I ran into with my Ruger SR1911. I went with the .220, didn't take too much work with the jig, and it came out great. maybe 1.5 hrs of careful fitting.

Your going to be blending the rear of the frame to slide anyway, might as well keep going. and blend the GS as well.

 

[jjrock]

The grip safety radius is a pretty common issue on frames that were meant for production guns. EGW makes a grip safety just for frames with a slightly over cut radius(under size). I believe its a .247" to help close up that gap. The other option, as Geezer already mentioned is going with a .220" radius. S&A sell a little .220 radius jig that is pretty in expensive and will allow you to recut the rear of the frame for a perfect fit. This was the problem I ran into with my Ruger SR1911. I went with the .220, didn't take too much work with the jig, and it came out great. maybe 1.5 hrs of careful fitting.

Your going to be blending the rear of the frame to slide anyway, might as well keep going. and blend the GS as well.

That looks great!

 

[geezer]

The grip safety radius is a pretty common issue on frames that were meant for production guns. EGW makes a grip safety just for frames with a slightly over cut radius(under size). I believe its a .247" to help close up that gap. The other option, as Geezer already mentioned is going with a .220" radius. S&A sell a little .220 radius jig that is pretty in expensive and will allow you to recut the rear of the frame for a perfect fit. This was the problem I ran into with my Ruger SR1911. I went with the .220, didn't take too much work with the jig, and it came out great. maybe 1.5 hrs of careful fitting.

Your going to be blending the rear of the frame to slide anyway, might as well keep going. and blend the GS as well.

Now THAT's how it's supposed to fit. VERY nice.

 

[markj]

Thanks guys. Just want to help show options. Here are the EGW safeties cut to .245" (not .247 like I thought, so even better),

http://www.egwguns.com/index.php?p=product&id=1049

They show out of stock right now, but that changes pretty quick with them. Ive never used one, but every other EGW part Ive ever used was outstanding.

ETA: Series 80 grip safeties can be used in either 80 or 70, 70 would need to be modified to work in an 80.

 

[Falcon1]

I have wanted to do a 1911 build. How much $ do you have in all the parts for yours?

 

[geezer]

A little more work on it... Matched bottom of frame to MSH, painted MSH and controls... And found the perfect grips...

 

[SMLEshooter]

I have the same issue with the frame sticking out past the slide on a stainless steel PSA frame.

 

[SMLEshooter]

I think I liked the wood grips you had on it earlier better...

After seeing yours with the stainless frame and hammer and black slide and parts, I think I'll go in that direction.

Cool thing about mine is the serial number is the caliber of my favorite British rifle!!

 

[geezer]

I have 306 and 307.....

 

[RamRoddoc]

Looks like you got some home work to do guys. I love this stuff. I'm looking forward to see how each of you overcome the expected challenges when building a gun from the frame up.

And best the final result.