This is a cool thread...Thank you jjrock for starting it. I think we'll learn a lot in this one.
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PSA 1911 build
- Thread starter jjrock
- Start date
What are mim parts?
bluesman2a
was kind enough to have me over today to school me a little on the build process. Having never tried to build one before, there was definitely an intimidation factor going in. Well there still is but it is reduced now. A huge thanks for bluesman to take the time to show me the ropes. Progress:
The trigger and mag catch are installed and we worked with the grip and thumb safety, hammer, ejector, and a few other parts.
Grip Safety:
Originally, I planned on using Wilson's high rise grip safety but I am going to order a .250 radius to start with to see if I am satisfied with that. As I am more comfortable, I may opt to try the wilson grip safety. I'd rather err on the side of caution for now as the .250 will require a lot less metal removal. From my initial impression, I will not achieve the results
markj
displayed earlier in the thread with a .250 and this frame but I figure I can come back to that as I'll keep the Wilson Grip safety and gig. Ejector:
I ordered the Ed Brown heat treated extended ejector. First, the drill bit used to install it was chewed up since the ejector was heat treated steel (I didn't even know it was heat treated). I think I may have ordered this in error anyway since everything I have is stainless and the ejector was black. Oops. Second, since the ejector is extended it is going to take quite a bit of filing. What is the benefit in an "extended" ejector anyway?
Happy building this weekend. Cheers!
This is where I am at the moment I have the Slide and Barrel Fitted to Frame (Barrel is the PSA Barrel), Trigger Fitted, Ejector Fitted, Sear and Hammer Fitted (Not Pictured).
Will Take some blending for the rear because the Ejector is back as stated but I am OK with Blending Later.
I ordered the EGW Beavertail Last night and got the shipping info today it should be here Monday too.
I noticed on the PSA website the Frames now say EGW cut Beavertail that is why I ordered one of their .250 Beavertails.
Will post pictures when it arrives after installation.
Will Take some blending for the rear because the Ejector is back as stated but I am OK with Blending Later.
I ordered the EGW Beavertail Last night and got the shipping info today it should be here Monday too.
I noticed on the PSA website the Frames now say EGW cut Beavertail that is why I ordered one of their .250 Beavertails.
Will post pictures when it arrives after installation.
From what I've heard the EGW is the best fit for .250's that they do them just slightly under size so you have some room to play with for fitment.
Who's slide stop is that? Mind getting some closer pics with it in place?
Looks great!
Slide Stop is one I had here for years do not remember where I got it and it needs to be Fitted yet so after fitting will take more pictures.
Looks a lot like a Wilson extended Slide Stop. Not 100%, but pretty sure.
JJrock, that's a solid plan with the grip safety. I really like The Wilson safety but it uses a compound radius and can be difficult to get it just right. The first one I did came out near perfect, and looks and feels great. The second one I did on my 9mm Caspian, gave me a hell of a time, wound up with a slight gap all the way around, still better than a production gun, but not nearly as nice as the first one.
RE: ejector
They should all be heat treated. Some will be mim and surface hardened, but they should be tool steel. A brand new 1/16" drill is the key. come through the frame from the right side, nice and easy. If it doesn't cut it, don't force it, it will at the very least mark the spot on the ejector leg that needs to be cut. You can always cut a small notch with a file at that spot.
A 5" 1911 doesn't need an extended ejector. Colt designed them for the commander and officer size guns to fix ejection timing issues with the shorter faster cycling slides. People use them on govt size guns because they allow you to tune the ejection pattern by adjusting the length and angle of the nose. There are some good drawings out there that will show you how it should be profiled. That will give you a good starting point. A well tuned ejector and extractor will put all your brass in a nice little pile, and you can adjust where it piles it up for you.
JJrock, that's a solid plan with the grip safety. I really like The Wilson safety but it uses a compound radius and can be difficult to get it just right. The first one I did came out near perfect, and looks and feels great. The second one I did on my 9mm Caspian, gave me a hell of a time, wound up with a slight gap all the way around, still better than a production gun, but not nearly as nice as the first one.
RE: ejector
They should all be heat treated. Some will be mim and surface hardened, but they should be tool steel. A brand new 1/16" drill is the key. come through the frame from the right side, nice and easy. If it doesn't cut it, don't force it, it will at the very least mark the spot on the ejector leg that needs to be cut. You can always cut a small notch with a file at that spot.
A 5" 1911 doesn't need an extended ejector. Colt designed them for the commander and officer size guns to fix ejection timing issues with the shorter faster cycling slides. People use them on govt size guns because they allow you to tune the ejection pattern by adjusting the length and angle of the nose. There are some good drawings out there that will show you how it should be profiled. That will give you a good starting point. A well tuned ejector and extractor will put all your brass in a nice little pile, and you can adjust where it piles it up for you.
Mark is dead on about coming in from the right side with your drill bit for the ejector... gives the bit more support.. a quality bit here is worth the $$( forget the titanium coated bits) . also use one with less angle. most of the time I simply mark the spot on the ejector arm and use a small rats tail file..
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