PSA 1911 build

[jjrock]

I had the Ed Brown grip safety fitted and the gap bothered me way too much so I've moved on to the Wilson Combat that I had originally purchased. Using the gig, I have the tangs nice and even with the gig but there still seems to be QUITE a bit of filing of the lower/bottom of the tangs to go. Being that its a compound radius, it would be nice if they had two gigs. Anybody have any suggestions or insight on working with the high ride WC grip safety? I'm just filing a little, doesn't work, mark up, file a litte, doesn't work, walk away...repeat.

 

[will4me]

The EGW gap is still to much for me too so I will be getting the 220 one and fitting it as well.
sorry no pics yet waiting on Microsoft to fix an issue with my desktop they have been working on it since Thursday,
my windows copy will not activate at all and I bought all my copies directly from them, I have had 2 techs scratching their heads.
They are supposed to finish up when I get home from work today (yea right Sarcasm off).

 

[markj]

I finally picked my frame up from my FFL on Sat. I haven't measured anything, but it looks pretty nice for the $. I have a few .250 radius safeties, and as you guys already know, the radius on the frame is seriously under sized. I will probably go with the .220 from EGW.

jjrock, if you haven't done it already, take the jig off the frame and put the safety directly on the jig. This will help you visualize where the metal has to come off the frame. Basically have to follow all the way around the bottom.

Beyond that. You are doing the right thing by marking the radius, file, mark, repeat. A set of gauge pins helps, increasing pin diameter till the thumb safety fits, but a tapered punch will work too.

 

[jjrock]

I finally picked my frame up from my FFL on Sat. I haven't measured anything, but it looks pretty nice for the $. I have a few .250 radius safeties, and as you guys already know, the radius on the frame is seriously under sized. I will probably go with the .220 from EGW.

jjrock, if you haven't done it already, take the jig off the frame and put the safety directly on the jig. This will help you visualize where the metal has to come off the frame. Basically have to follow all the way around the bottom.

Beyond that. You are doing the right thing by marking the radius, file, mark, repeat. A set of gauge pins helps, increasing pin diameter till the thumb safety fits, but a tapered punch will work too.

I haven't tried putting the safety directly on the jig. Great idea. I hope to work on it some today and will see how I get along with trying to use a tapered punch to hold her on there because using the thumb safety is a PITA. Thanks!!

 

[jjrock]

The Wilson Combat high ride grip safety has been fit. I also got around to fitting the thumb safety. I need to shave the thumb safety down a little more for a perfect fit but it is functional.

Now, what is the best way of blending the frame/grip safety interface??? Dremel or sand paper and dowels? Here are some pics of the progress.....

 

[bluesman2a]

Now, what is the best way of blending the frame/grip safety interface??? Dremel or sand paper and dowels?

On mine I used a dremel with a sanding drum for the rough work then moved to sandpaper for the finer/finish work for smoothing stuff out. One of the things I found valuable was to cut the paper into strips about 6-8" long, then "shoe-shine" it across the back. You'll want them fairly thin, about 1" to 1/2", play with the width so you can get up in the deeper curves.

I'm interested in what others with more experience than I are doing as well.

 

[jglenn]

I usually use the finer drums( 240 grit) then finish with a cratex bit.. .final finish with 600 grit paper and up unless we're going to bead blast the area.

 

[jjrock]

Did some blending today of the grip safety today. I let my lack of patience get to me today and used a lower grit sanding drum with the dremel and took a little more metal than I intended off on the grip safety (3rd picture) because I ran out of 240 grit drums and didn't want to stop working to go to the store or wait on amazon. Fortunately, I can blend it pretty easily once I grab some new drums.

I'm pretty satisfied with my results on the Wilson high ride grip safety being that it is my first time doing it. I still need to smooth everything out a little more but will do that once I even out some of the spots I went too hard/much on. So far, I've sanded down to 800 grit. Is there any point to sanding down to 2000 grit or will I just need to use a polishing felt/ wheel? to get all of the sanding marks out?

Pics:

 

[markj]

Looks great.
I would suggest block sanding the side of the safety flush with the side of the frame. 320 Sand paper wrapped around a stone, very slightly taper it to the rear. I will usually sand as far forward as the hammer pin hole. Not taking off a ton of metal, just getting the sides of the safety flat, square and even with the frame don't be afraid to take 3 or 4 thou off the side of the safety and frame tangs..

I know you already went to 800, but I might go back to 220 or 320 wrapped around a dowl (I use my sharpie, have a oval sharpie that works perfect). long even strokes in one direction, being mindful of the edge at the side of the safety you just created by sanding it flat. 220 used this way will really level the surface and get everything nice and flush. From there, go 320/ 400/ 600. Remember, when sanding, any given grit will only remove the scratches from the previous grit, so before moving on from 220, make sure there are NO marks or scratches left deeper then the grain left by the paper. If you are going to polish it with a felt wheel on the dremmel, you can stop at 600 or 800. no need to go past that. The only time I go to 1500 or 2000 is for a polished surface on a blued gun. If Im media blasting I stop at 400.

 

[jjrock]

thanks markj

Just to clarify - are you talking about sanding the parts that I've "marked" on the photo below?