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Torque wrench question

One of the few times I've been in HF, a employee at the register told a man in front of me not to buy his torque wrench because they were junk. Couldn't believe he said that.
I worked with a well respected senior mechanic at Delta airlines. He bought a few torque wrenches at Harbor Freight for home use. (On the job requires ONLY Delta tooling with documented identification number and expiration date) He brought his personal tools into work to have Delta calibration test them. He was proud that every one of them tested out EXACTLY as advertised.
 
I worked with a well respected senior mechanic at Delta airlines. He bought a few torque wrenches at Harbor Freight for home use. (On the job requires ONLY Delta tooling with documented identification number and expiration date) He brought his personal tools into work to have Delta calibration test them. He was proud that every one of them tested out EXACTLY as advertised.
Nice!
 
Yeah, a gunsmith back then would probably charge $10 for a job like that. And the price of gas, groceries, and his mortgage was about 1/7th the price too. Math is hard.

For most my customers I'd just handle something like that for free. But if someone I don't know called and wanted a quote it would be $60. That's just a my minimum for any job, and he's probably the same way.

A $60 shop minimum actually sounds extremely reasonable, if not even a little on the cheap side, all things considered. Hi Mr. Gunsmith, I have this tiny job that I can't do/don't have the tool/am afraid I'll break, could you drop what you're currently working on, fix it for me, and answer all the stupid questions I'll be asking while you're doing it?
 
If you have not already torqued the castle nut, I highly recommend that you lube the surface of the castle nut and end plate before torquing. These two pieces do not play well together and often times bind causing the buffer tube to twist and distort the slot in the tube. Or CMShoot has a special tool that eliminates this aspect.
 
If you have not already torqued the castle nut, I highly recommend that you lube the surface of the castle nut and end plate before torquing. These two pieces do not play well together and often times bind causing the buffer tube to twist and distort the slot in the tube. Or CMShoot has a special tool that eliminates this aspect.

I use my jig AND lube the threads!
 
And when I was growing up people didn't have to do crazy financing to buy a house, spend 8 years paying off a car or surrendering more than half of their earnings to a bloated, wasteful set of local, state and federal governments. Complying with governmental mandates including zoning, permitting, etc., is a costly bloody nightmare.

Nobody is getting rich charging a nominal fee to torque a castle nut. The shop owner has to go get his jig to hold your rifle, set it in the vise, clean the parts, go fetch the torque wrench, do the work so the owner doesn't freak out and start whining about it not being done "to my expectations!" and then he gets to clean up and put everything away. Unless he is waiting on that type of job every day and has all his shyte set up, you're probably looking at an hour where this is what the gunsmiff is doing, instead of working on jobs that are ALREADY on his desk/worktable with a customer waiting months.

Take your boom stick with the loose castle nut to Comradski Biden's Socialist Gunsmiff Institute and they may give you quick, effective and free or reduced cost service.
That is really unnecessary.
 
Yeah, a gunsmith back then would probably charge $10 for a job like that. And the price of gas, groceries, and his mortgage was about 1/7th the price too. Math is hard.

For most my customers I'd just handle something like that for free. But if someone I don't know called and wanted a quote it would be $60. That's just a my minimum for any job, and he's probably the same way.

There is an opportunity for entrepreneurs in this field.
 
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