Starting a AR10 build

[Winterborne]

A video I enjoyed though I don't agree with all his content on some items

A wealth of knowledge to be found on this forum.
Listen to the elders like Greg Vess & Cmshoot.

 

[Gunanddoglover]

tldr

EliTE

 

[greg vess]

Aero Precision M5 receivers use a high tang handguard. That's what I'm working with right now. I did ask see CMshoot about Barrel accuracy since I haven't done a lot with the AR-10s. He recommended ER Shaw, Criterion, ballistic advantage. I'm going to go with the Criterion Barrel myself. I used a ballistic advantage on the last AR-10 I fooled with a couple of months ago and it shoots Sub MOA with cheap ammo so they're good barrels. Criterion barrels I haven't had a lot of experience with but my buddy has a 6mm Creedmoor with the Criterion Barrel that's extremely accurate. Quarter size groups at 300 yards but it's a bull barrel and 24 inches long. It's a bolt action bench rest gun that weighs in at 17 lb so it's built for nothing but long range accuracy.

 

[greg vess]

I watched the video and a couple notes about the buffer and spring. There are several lengths of buffers and tubes. I went with the Kaw Valley setup. They use a shorter buffer tube with the two and a half inch buffer which is 5.6 ounces in weight. I just went with that set up because it already has a heavy buffer which eases The recoil tremendously and when you combine that with an adjustable gas block it really does tame the 308 down a lot. It uses the standard DPMS size bolt carrier group. The Kaw Valley setup comes with the buffer tube the correct spring and the 5.6 Oz buffer which is 2 1/2 inches in length. You can get that at Wing tactical and it takes all the guess work out of receiver extension assembly.

 

[greg vess]

I just picked up a Criterion Hybrid 16 inch barrel. At Criterion they are 389.00. I found one at Optics Planet for 309.00 and 15.00 off for calling and requesting it. It's a stainless nitrided finish, hand lead lapped and polished bore and chamber. I am stoked to see how it stacks up against the BA Hanson barrel in my other AR-10. I am going to put a shorter handguard and it will be my hunting/SD rig. I will send pics when it comes in. I am thinking it will be a tad more accurate than the Ballistic Advantage piece but you never know.

The owner of Criterion was a barrel maker for Krieger I believe. It was either Krieger or Compass Lake. Anyway they make good barrels from what I have seen from my friends gun. He has a 6mm Creedmoor that he picks off walnuts at 300 yards ( that's no exaggeration). So hopefully I get a good one like his. I don't expect that kind of accuracy but close at shorter ranges. I was going to go with the 6.5 Creedmoor but decided not to add an extra caliber to the mix so I am doing another 308. I decided on a shorter Barrel than what I have now for better maneuverability in the woods and around the house if need be.

 

[BigMike]

My JP reaction rod was I think $140. Worth its weight in gold. A tweaked upper is a bad day.

 

[greg vess]

My JP reaction rod was I think $140. Worth its weight in gold. A tweaked upper is a bad day.

I would make one out an old BCG before I spend 140 bucks. All you need is a welder and a 5/8 piece of steel rod. Think about that and tell me if you know how it can be done?

 

[ReservoirDawg10]

I would make one out an old BCG before I spend 140 bucks. All you need is a welder and a 5/8 piece of steel rod. Think about that and tell me if you know how it can be done?

Nope. Reaction rods are stronger than the bolt lugs on an ar bolt and the reaction rod locks into the barrel extension with the intent wo torque the firearm, not just fire it.

 

[greg vess]

Nope. Reaction rods are stronger than the bolt lugs on an ar bolt and the reaction rod locks into the barrel extension with the intent wo torque the firearm, not just fire it.

You take the bolt cam pin out. You push the carrier in to where the bolt lugs lock into the barrel extension lugs. You can see when the bolt lugs are engaged with the barrel extension lugs through the ejection port. At that point you just tack the bolt where it's at. When you take it out you can weld it completely . Then you take the 5/8 or whatever 5 inch piece of rod and weld it to the rear of the carrier. Then mill flat areas on both sides so it can be locked in a vise. 30 to 60 lb of force is not going to break those bolt lugs. I'm not say I would do it but you could make your own that would do in a pinch. I am pretty sure that the rearward force applied to the bolt when the firearm is discharged is greater than force it takes to tighten a barrel nut. This whole idea is just creative theory course. SHTF situation if you didn't have access to Amazon or what have you. I am just thinking out loud here so don't lambast me for it.

When it comes to tools I am a stickler about using the proper piece for the job. I love buying tools to work with. I have every tool is takes to measure and assemble a LS engine. I never skimp when it comes to tools. I have at least two or three of each one. Except the reaction rod. I see no reason to buy a second one. One thing I do with tools is;
1st - Make sure I have the proper tool for the job.
2nd - I never loan out my tools.

Even the most honest of people get real sticky fingers when it comes to tools. For some reason I have never gotten a tool back when I loaned it out. Then when I asked about getting it back they make up some crap like " I loaned to a friend and they lost it. " . So when it comes right down to it tools turn good people into thieves and liars instantly. The worst part about it is it might only cost 10 bucks.

 

[ReservoirDawg10]

You take the bolt cam pin out. You push the carrier in to where the bolt lugs lock into the barrel extension lugs. You can see when the bolt lugs are engaged with the barrel extension lugs through the ejection port. At that point you just tack the bolt where it's at. When you take it out you can weld it completely . Then you take the 5/8 or whatever 5 inch piece of rod and weld it to the rear of the carrier. Then mill flat areas on both sides so it can be locked in a vise. 30 to 60 lb of force is not going to break those bolt lugs. I'm not say I would do it but you could make your own that would do in a pinch. I am pretty sure that the rearward force applied to the bolt when the firearm is discharged is greater than force it takes to tighten a barrel nut. This whole idea is just creative theory course. SHTF situation if you didn't have access to Amazon or what have you. I am just thinking out loud here so don't lambast me for it.

When it comes to tools I am a stickler about using the proper piece for the job. I love buying tools to work with. I have every tool is takes to measure and assemble a LS engine. I never skimp when it comes to tools. I have at least two or three of each one. Except the reaction rod. I see no reason to buy a second one. One thing I do with tools is;
1st - Make sure I have the proper tool for the job.
2nd - I never loan out my tools.

Even the most honest of people get real sticky fingers when it comes to tools. For some reason I have never gotten a tool back when I loaned it out. Then when I asked about getting it back they make up some crap like " I loaned to a friend and they lost it. " . So when it comes right down to it tools turn good people into thieves and liars instantly. The worst part about it is it might only cost 10 bucks.

Tldr

Of course you can make damn near any simple tool with a mill, lathe, welder, plasma cutter, bench vice, calipers, etc. Sometimes it's nice to just buy a proven tool.

And rearward force is very different than lateral and rotational force.