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Starting a AR10 build
- Thread starter Jackie Graham
- Start date
No particular style preferred but the last one was one that I was looking at.
Run by Tru Prep and let CMshoot torque it down for you. He has the good tool for that.
Though about that but also considering another build in the future.
For torquing the barrel nut and muzzle devices, I prefer to use a reaction rod, like the one that Geissele or Midwest Industries sells. Much less likely to damage an upper receiver than using the blocks.
I see some are made out of aluminum. I know that the steel will last a lifetime. However, I will probably only use it two or three times. In your opinion, will the aluminum do the job?
I would think Aluminum would flex a bit so I would stay away from that. Buy a good one like CMshoot recommend and use till you don't need it anymore and then sell it. They will always sell and you won't loose you rear end over it. The Geissele tool will always fetch more down the road when you are done with it. There is one that has a rotating nut at the back and just seems suspect to me. I would avoid that one. The ones that lock into the vise, slide the upper onto the rod and torque the barrel nut down. Easy operation and fool proof.
Not using the reaction rod can damage your upper receiver when installing the barrel nut. Consider how much it will cost you to replace your upper receivers, then think about how much the right tool is worth to you.
I despise not having the proper tool to a build an AR of any kind.
(I am not a fan of the AR10 platform..it has no real standard)
That being said the purchase price for one task you may never repeat is a downside to getting what you want.
IMHO seek out Cmshoot at Tru-Prep and get his help.
Pay them a small donation or buy a magazine or two.
He will most likely know most of what problems you will face and what parts work together
Your building a relationship with a local dealership and supporting them so that later on you can call them up and buy more parts stuff for your next adventure.
Can't say enough good things about Tru-Prep.
We are lucky to have them in the North Georgia area.
*Note: Tru-Prep is addicting and can get you into survival mode...lol
(I am not a fan of the AR10 platform..it has no real standard)
That being said the purchase price for one task you may never repeat is a downside to getting what you want.
IMHO seek out Cmshoot at Tru-Prep and get his help.
Pay them a small donation or buy a magazine or two.
He will most likely know most of what problems you will face and what parts work together
Your building a relationship with a local dealership and supporting them so that later on you can call them up and buy more parts stuff for your next adventure.
Can't say enough good things about Tru-Prep.
We are lucky to have them in the North Georgia area.
*Note: Tru-Prep is addicting and can get you into survival mode...lol
Building an AR-10 is not that bad. There are two things you have to ( be in the know ) and you won't have any problem. First it has to be either a DPMS/ LR308 or a Armalite platform that's either, or.
Second the DPMS / LR308 is the most accessible. With the DPMS you either have a low tang or high tang receiver. This is where it is crucial or your handguard won't be level with the top of the receiver. Most handguards will denote high or low tang ( height of the rail ). As long as you stick to those parameters you will be fine. It's not that difficult. I am on my third now and I have never had a problem. I built one in 2013 and it was my first one and I had no problems.
Example for handguard info;
You will notice that it denotes low profile or low Tang in the description of the handguard. That's the only thing you need to worry about when matching up your handguard and your receiver. The Gen 1 DPMS had a low Tang. The Gen 2 DPMS has a high tang. If you're using the palmetto State Armory receivers they use a low Tang receiver so it's necessary to get a low Tang handguard. Just pick out the receivers you want and then you'll be able to determine whether you need a high or low tang handguard. Everything else you just need to make sure it says DPMS platform. Then it'll go together just like an AR-15 with no hiccups. I'm by no means an expert AR-10 builder but on the third one I've never had an issue. I've had to ask some questions about barrels and whatnot just because I haven't done a lot with with them but other than that the assembly process is fairly straightforward as long as you stick with the DPMS platform.
Second the DPMS / LR308 is the most accessible. With the DPMS you either have a low tang or high tang receiver. This is where it is crucial or your handguard won't be level with the top of the receiver. Most handguards will denote high or low tang ( height of the rail ). As long as you stick to those parameters you will be fine. It's not that difficult. I am on my third now and I have never had a problem. I built one in 2013 and it was my first one and I had no problems.
Example for handguard info;
Midwest Industries AR-308 Combat Rail M-LOK Handguard - DPMS Low - 12.625"
www.primaryarms.com
You will notice that it denotes low profile or low Tang in the description of the handguard. That's the only thing you need to worry about when matching up your handguard and your receiver. The Gen 1 DPMS had a low Tang. The Gen 2 DPMS has a high tang. If you're using the palmetto State Armory receivers they use a low Tang receiver so it's necessary to get a low Tang handguard. Just pick out the receivers you want and then you'll be able to determine whether you need a high or low tang handguard. Everything else you just need to make sure it says DPMS platform. Then it'll go together just like an AR-15 with no hiccups. I'm by no means an expert AR-10 builder but on the third one I've never had an issue. I've had to ask some questions about barrels and whatnot just because I haven't done a lot with with them but other than that the assembly process is fairly straightforward as long as you stick with the DPMS platform.
