Magazine Drilling

[ridin42]

naw you can do it .. ill stand back lol

 

[EMC45]

Not to be rude, but was the drill in reverse? As others have mentioned, I'd personally start with a tiny, sub-pencil lead sized bit and some light oil. Keep the speed REALLY low. Apply good steady pressure and stick some scrap in the mag with enough sticking out to clamp to table or bench. That things gonna fly as soon as your 2nd or 3rd bit catches hold. Work to get a curl or some chips.

I saw this when I worked at a hardware store back in the early 2000s. A guy was trying to drill a few holes in the parking lot through some stainless. Kept burning bits and just burnishing the drill area. He went through a few bits when a co-worker told him to flick the switch. It then ate into it like it was supposed to.

 

[Jambo]

Are the magazines stainless steel? If it's austenitic stainless steel it's difficult to drill because the material doesn't transfer heat very well. Any heat generated will go into the drill itself. The cutting edge overheats and dulls, and you're out of business.

You can drill it, however, using a regular high speed steel drill, but you have to use a LOT of coolant. Regular water in a spray bottle will work, and apply it liberally. Have someone spray it while you drill. Then don't play with it; push down hard and go.

 

[MaconGuns]

I saw this when I worked at a hardware store back in the early 2000s. A guy was trying to drill a few holes in the parking lot through some stainless. Kept burning bits and just burnishing the drill area. He went through a few bits when a co-worker told him to flick the switch. It then ate into it like it was supposed to.

2 settings on the switch. Figured if I tried both Id have 100% chance to get it right.

Posted is a clip of what appears to be the bit spinning the right way but who knows.

 

[MaconGuns]

Are the magazines stainless steel? If it's austenitic stainless steel it's difficult to drill because the material doesn't transfer heat very well. Any heat generated will go into the drill itself. The cutting edge overheats and dulls, and you're out of business.

You can drill it, however, using a regular high speed steel drill, but you have to use a LOT of coolant. Regular water in a spray bottle will work, and apply it liberally. Have someone spray it while you drill. Then don't play with it; push down hard and go.

I put a gracious amount of gun oil on it and it didnt work. Wiped it dry and tried again to see if any metal flakes were being made and saw none. Ive come to the conclusion that it will take more pressure than I am applying and a better setup than I am using

 

[Nonliberal]

I put a gracious amount of gun oil on it and it didnt work. Wiped it dry and tried again to see if any metal flakes were being made and saw none. Ive come to the conclusion that it will take more pressure than I am applying and a better setup than I am using

"Laserbeams" man

 

[Rolling_trip]

You know I thought about how pretentious and egotistical suggesting that you should all just use your milling machines may have sounded.
I apologize
If you send me the mags. I will cut them, not with the mill, but with laser beams and ****. Cause I gots one of those too. I'll take pics

Water jet? Lasers cut edges don’t play well with my paint......

 

[Nonliberal]

Water jet? Lasers cut edges don’t play well with my paint......

Hows that? You mean it's hard to paint them or lasers burn the paint? The laser makes burrs if you run it too slow I have come to find.
And I dont have waterjet

 

[Rolling_trip]

Hows that? You mean it's hard to paint them or lasers burn the paint? The laser makes burrs if you run it too slow I have come to find.
And I dont have waterjet

trying to powder coat over edges can cause poor edge coverage and/or out gassing. A lot of the fab/paint shops must blast the edges so the paint does flake off. Good info if your end user plans on coating it, someone needs to remove the oxide.

https://www.pfonline.com/articles/taking-the-oxide-edge-off

 

[Rolling_trip]

trying to powder coat over edges can cause poor edge coverage and/or out gassing. A lot of the fab/paint shops must blast the edges so the paint does flake off. Good info if your end user plans on coating it, someone needs to remove the oxide.

https://www.pfonline.com/articles/taking-the-oxide-edge-off

If you ever decide to start a small coating process, give me a ring.