215,000 on my truck (Dodge) had a misfire on cylinder one and it was due to the ignition coil. I agree, peace of mind, due to the mileage I’m just going to replace the rest of them.
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It's that time again - F150 Spark Plugs
- Thread starter November Sierra
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215,000 on my truck (Dodge) had a misfire on cylinder one and it was due to the ignition coil. I agree, peace of mind, due to the mileage I’m just going to replace the rest of them.
I do understand that all things do wear out eventually but how could a coil that's not misfiring be bad? I can change 8 spark plugs for less than $30 so it's not a big deal to change spark plugs but coils are around $25 each. That's $200 to change parts that aren't bad. I'm not talking about cheap coils either. If I change a coil I'm going to use a quality part. Probably a motorcraft or denso.
fyi, the only time you need to worry on plugs breaking with the 5.4 triton motors is if they are the stock plugs. those are the 2 piece ones that break. if you've already changed the stock ones out you will be fine.
and if one coil goes, go ahead and replace all 8. because if one fails, the others aren't far behind. spend the money on motorcraft for coils.
and if one coil goes, go ahead and replace all 8. because if one fails, the others aren't far behind. spend the money on motorcraft for coils.
I just had to replace my #8 coil on my 07 E250 4.6 yesterday.
Luckily I had a spare in my van for times like this.
It’s was a pain in the rear getting the hold down bolt in place in such a tight spot.
It would have been very easy if I took out the tunnel inside the cabin but I didn’t want to go through all that.
I just got done helping two guys at a gas station change a flat tire on a new ford SUV for a very hot blonde girl when my check engine light came on after I pulled away and my engine was stumbling badly.
Pulled a po308 code and replaced the suspected coil at the next gas station.
Funny cause all three people I just helped all passed and saw me under the hood of my van and just kept going...lol.
It’s all good....I got it.
I replaced my plugs and coils a couple years ago and have since had two coils go bad so I carry a spare at all times.
My plugs were super tight and squeaky/squawking getting them out ....was sweating bullets but they all came out with some gingerly manipulation.
I could not, for the life of me, find nickel based anti seize.
The only thing parts stores had was the copper based and the aluminum based stuff.
Luckily I had a spare in my van for times like this.
It’s was a pain in the rear getting the hold down bolt in place in such a tight spot.
It would have been very easy if I took out the tunnel inside the cabin but I didn’t want to go through all that.
I just got done helping two guys at a gas station change a flat tire on a new ford SUV for a very hot blonde girl when my check engine light came on after I pulled away and my engine was stumbling badly.
Pulled a po308 code and replaced the suspected coil at the next gas station.
Funny cause all three people I just helped all passed and saw me under the hood of my van and just kept going...lol.
It’s all good....I got it.
I replaced my plugs and coils a couple years ago and have since had two coils go bad so I carry a spare at all times.
My plugs were super tight and squeaky/squawking getting them out ....was sweating bullets but they all came out with some gingerly manipulation.
I could not, for the life of me, find nickel based anti seize.
The only thing parts stores had was the copper based and the aluminum based stuff.
Heres my understanding and life experience with anti seize. We always used the graphite silver based anti seize on our fleet. Had 10+ triton engines and other makes/models with aluminum heads. Never a problem. We changed them at 100k from the factory and every 100k from there. Several had 250-350k miles when I left and ran great. Never spit a plug or had one strip out. Found out later that graphite is corrosive on aluminum so I've started using the copper based anti seize on my personal cars. Personal opinion: either flavor works and you’ll never know the difference. Graphite may be corrosive to aluminum but by the time it were an issue, the rest of the car would be shot anyways.
The “danger” in using copper based on spark plugs is two fold. If you accidently get any of it on the igniter, it will screw with your 02 sensor(s). Also copper based doesn’t withstand the hot temperatures as well. It will put off fumes that again will screw with your 02 sensor(s).
I’ll bet I can find it on Amazon.
