Well played, sir. Well played.
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Input on F-150 crew cab
- Thread starter AKguy
- Start date
Well played, sir. Well played.
I want a white 4 dr one
I have a 2004 F150 super crew lariat. 5.4 3valve. Bought it new and have just over 200,000 miles on it. I did pull the engine and rebuilt it (did it myself) at 187,944.2 miles. I keep a detailed record of any and all maintenance I do to my vehicles, scooter, boat, lawn mower and 4 wheeler. Anyway, let me tell you the do's and don't' with a 5.4 3 valve engine.
DO use a good quality oil filter: motor raft, wix (Napa gold), purolator etc.
DO change the oil religiously every 3000 , no matter if you run conventional oil or synthetic. (dirty oil is a killer to these engines)
DO use a good quality oil, 5 w 20 ONLY
DO burn only good quality gasoline, Shell, Chevron, Sunoco etc.
DO put nickel based anti seize on the spark plug threads. The heads are aluminum and nickel based anti seize makes them easy to remove. DO NOT USE COPPER BASED. It won't hold up to the heat and it will ruin the 02 sensors.
Motorcraft SP 515 is an updated one piece spark plug for these engines. These are welded where the original plugs were crimped together.
The cam phasers are controlled by the Variabe Cam Timing solenoids (VCT solenoids)
The VCT solenoids are controlled by oil pressure.
Dirty oil is dirty oil. Synthetic oil gets dirty just as fast as conventional. Gasoline combustion deposits are what causes motor oil to turn black.
Dirty oil will take out a VCT solenoid quicker than anything. The solenoid gets dirty and sticks ,,,,,usually in the open position. The VCT solenoid is now not working, so therefore the cam phaser also quits working, which in turn causes the cam to retard the timing on that bank. This leads to the cam phaser knock people talk about. This also leads to the timing chain to put excessive pressure on the timing chain guide and tensioner on this bank. Chain guide is made of UHMW and chain begins to wear it down. Chain gets loose on the guide and begins to slap it. This will be especially heard on cold start ups and at idle. Sounds kinda like a diesel running. The chain guide gets broken into small chips and fall into the oil pan. The chips get sucked into the oil pump strainer and clog it up. This causes restricted oil flow and low oil pressure and eventual engine failure.
Bottom line here is good regular maintenance using good quality products and a little common sense with these engines and they will run great for years and years.
The 2004 F150 Heritage is the "old body style" while the "new body style" was a total redesign. The frame is much stronger than previous year models. The 5.4 3 valve has much more torque. The truck has a towing capacity of 9,500 lbs. mine has pulled my 6000 lb bumper pull camper thousands of miles with no problems.
Anyway, I have worked on hundreds of these trucks and 99% of the time, the problems I repair on them is 100% the result of poor maintenance and lead foot syndrome.
DO use a good quality oil filter: motor raft, wix (Napa gold), purolator etc.
DO change the oil religiously every 3000 , no matter if you run conventional oil or synthetic. (dirty oil is a killer to these engines)
DO use a good quality oil, 5 w 20 ONLY
DO burn only good quality gasoline, Shell, Chevron, Sunoco etc.
DO put nickel based anti seize on the spark plug threads. The heads are aluminum and nickel based anti seize makes them easy to remove. DO NOT USE COPPER BASED. It won't hold up to the heat and it will ruin the 02 sensors.
Motorcraft SP 515 is an updated one piece spark plug for these engines. These are welded where the original plugs were crimped together.
The cam phasers are controlled by the Variabe Cam Timing solenoids (VCT solenoids)
The VCT solenoids are controlled by oil pressure.
Dirty oil is dirty oil. Synthetic oil gets dirty just as fast as conventional. Gasoline combustion deposits are what causes motor oil to turn black.
Dirty oil will take out a VCT solenoid quicker than anything. The solenoid gets dirty and sticks ,,,,,usually in the open position. The VCT solenoid is now not working, so therefore the cam phaser also quits working, which in turn causes the cam to retard the timing on that bank. This leads to the cam phaser knock people talk about. This also leads to the timing chain to put excessive pressure on the timing chain guide and tensioner on this bank. Chain guide is made of UHMW and chain begins to wear it down. Chain gets loose on the guide and begins to slap it. This will be especially heard on cold start ups and at idle. Sounds kinda like a diesel running. The chain guide gets broken into small chips and fall into the oil pan. The chips get sucked into the oil pump strainer and clog it up. This causes restricted oil flow and low oil pressure and eventual engine failure.
Bottom line here is good regular maintenance using good quality products and a little common sense with these engines and they will run great for years and years.
The 2004 F150 Heritage is the "old body style" while the "new body style" was a total redesign. The frame is much stronger than previous year models. The 5.4 3 valve has much more torque. The truck has a towing capacity of 9,500 lbs. mine has pulled my 6000 lb bumper pull camper thousands of miles with no problems.
Anyway, I have worked on hundreds of these trucks and 99% of the time, the problems I repair on them is 100% the result of poor maintenance and lead foot syndrome.
Wow
*Drooling*
Definetly go with a 5.0. I've had my 2013 f150 xlt 5.0 for 6 months and love it!! Bought it with 30k miles with a 6" suspension/afternarket rims/tires for 37,000 which is pretty damn good.
Been eyeballing some of the 16's with lift kits. I'm just burnt out on the big tires though. Every truck I had until my last two were lifted, and I just feel like I'm at a point where I'm content with a stock truck, with some tint on the front windows some HID's.
There's a local man in his 40-50's who drives an F150 Supercrew on 37" or bigger tires and a 10-12" lift. I'm only 29 and i'm content with a leveling kit and 35's on whatever i have.
I'm still young, but I can tell I'm no spring chicken anymore. It's slowly been setting in, but... my last F-150 was on 40's and I could go bust my ass at the gym and then jump in no problem. Now after a day of heavy deadlifts, the next day I get in my almost bone stock F-150 and I'm wiggling in like an old man. Plus, I carry so much crap around for work I just need something that I can easily throw stuff in and out of a back seat (not very easy in an extended cab).
I've got a two year old. We're doing all we can to make the extended cab work for now. The wife has a new Jeep so i've got to make my truck last a while.
