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Hunting season is almost over and my 300 BLK is going to be updated. Need some help....

Come January 1st my 300 BLK is getting torn apart and redone. I could use some opinions to consider.


Here is my gun as it sits right now.

i96.photobucket.com_albums_l172_snickelson1_20141031_122753_zpsxbkyessg.jpg



The scope and 45 degree sights are coming off. So is the rail system. It currently has an 8.5" 1/8 barrel. I am wanting to tuck my can up under the rail so on black Friday I bought a 12" Radical Rail. My can is 9.5" long and adds 8.75" to the gun so figure with the 8.5" barrel the total length will be 16.5" with 4.5" of my can sticking out. The radical rail looks like this.

RF12RAIL-2.jpg


Now here is where my problems start. PSA put the 12" YHM Todd Jarrett rail on sale. I already have one on another SBR and I love it, plus it weighs almost a full ounce less than the Radical rail. I couldn't pass that deal up so I bought one today.

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I figure once it gets here I will install the one I like more and sell the other. Pretty sure I am going to go Todd Jarrett since it will match my 22 "Ghost Gun." The TJ is 12.5" though so that will cover up that much more of the can.

i96.photobucket.com_albums_l172_snickelson1_20140703_101628_zpsj8emeagk.jpg




So what say you guys. Which rail would you go with? I don't care about the keymod on the radical rail and just went with it because it was thin, light, my can would fit under it, and it was a good deal.


The other thing I am considering is since I have a free thread job from Dobbs Defense coming is perhaps cutting my 8.5" barrel down to 6.5" since I never shoot this gun unsuppressed anyway. That would leave 2" of my can sticking out from the front of the rail.

I'd leave the barrel alone, but I'm no 300blk expert. Wasn't it optimized for something like a 9" barrel length?

Re: rails - are you sure that the advertised weights include the barrel nut and all necessary hardware? The Jarrett would give you more protection from the heat, but I'd be sure the weight comparisons were apples to apples and account for barrel nuts, etc. As far as length, I'd probably set it up with 3-4" of exposed can and no less. But I suppose that's just personal preference.
 
I'd leave the barrel alone, but I'm no 300blk expert. Wasn't it optimized for something like a 9" barrel length?

Re: rails - are you sure that the advertised weights include the barrel nut and all necessary hardware? The Jarrett would give you more protection from the heat, but I'd be sure the weight comparisons were apples to apples and account for barrel nuts, etc. As far as length, I'd probably set it up with 3-4" of exposed can and no less. But I suppose that's just personal preference.



Yeah, I don't know what their weight number includes, I just remeber thinking my mind length TJ rail was kinda heavy. I really am thinking the lack of a rearward QD socket or a good way to attach one is going to kill the TJ for me. I have grown very fond of my QD sockets at the rear of the rail.


as far as how far the can sticks out, I'm thinking I am with you there. My 22 can only sticks out an inch and while it looks cool it is a ***** to thread it on tight and to remove unless i use a strap wrench and even then it sucks to get lined up on the threads. My cyclone weighs 5 times what my little 22 can weighs and I can imagine trying to line up those threads 8 inches inside the rail while holding on with just my fingertips.
 
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Yeah, I don't know what their weight number includes, I just remeber thinking my mind length TJ rail was kinda heavy. I really am thinking the lack of a rearward QD socket or a good way to attach one is going to kill the TJ for me. I have grown very fond of my QD sockets at the rear of the rail.


as far as how far the can sticks out, I'm thinking I am with you there. My 22 can only sticks out an inch and while it looks cool it is a ***** to thread it on tight and to remove unless i use a strap wrench and even then it sucks to get lined up on the threads. My cyclone weighs 5 times what my little 22 can weighs and I can imagine trying to line up those threads 8 inches inside the rail while holding on with just my fingertips.

Yeah, some rail manufacturers are worse than others about disclosing the true weight. I've never felt a YHM rail and thought "hey, that's light!" Quite the opposite in fact. But I've not handled that specific model. And I'm right there with you on QD mount location.

You pretty much read my mind on can length vs rail. I'd want enough sticking out to actually get a good grip on it. Good luck with your rebuild!
 
Dumb question time. I've got a 7.5" rail on my 8.2" Blackout. I've been thinking of running a 12" rail and then adding my Saker 762 (once it's out of jail). Would it be safe to fire without the can on with the longer rail. My guy says no, but I'm not down for a "hey yall watch this" moment.
 
Dumb question time. I've got a 7.5" rail on my 8.2" Blackout. I've been thinking of running a 12" rail and then adding my Saker 762 (once it's out of jail). Would it be safe to fire without the can on with the longer rail. My guy says no, but I'm not down for a "hey yall watch this" moment.

No. There was a guy on one of the forums (maybe M4C) that had the muzzle brake about 1/2 way inside the rail, and it split the end of the rail.

As to the OP, how about this? Replace the 300 with a 12.5" 5.56 upper. Go with the Mini Grunt and get yourself either a 10" BCM rail or a 10.5" Midwest Industries keymod rail. The MI rail has a QD socket at the rear of the rail. I don't think the BCM has one, but you can always add a keymod QD for about $15. Both rails are very lightweight.

Then replace the 1 - 4x with a lighter weight 2 - 7x scope. I have a similar setup, and I am swapping out my 1 - 4x with a 2 - 7x and an Aero Precision scope mount after the season. It should drop my total weight with a 5 round mag to right at 7lbs.

If you are going to keep the 300, I would definitely leave several inches of the can outside of the rail. Once that carbon sets in on the threads, it'll be impossible to remove without some surface area to grip.
 
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