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Head case separation

I honestly don't know anyone who has ever trimmed 9mm brass, lol. Not really worth the effort. Also, the area of concern would be around the rim / case head. If it were bulged and resized, that area tends not to get sized back to the correct specs which would keep it from chambering properly.
 
So, I have a M&P, but most of my experience is with Glocks. There is a Glock issue that might also be a concern on the M&P.

Here it is:

Wolff offers 6 lb "extra power" striker springs for help with ignition of hard primers often found in machine gun or foreign manufacture ammunition.

The factory striker spring is 5.5 pounds.

Warning: Do not use with reduced power recoil springs. Doing so may result in the gun being pulled out of battery during trigger pull.


Make sure your slide is not moving out of battery as you pull the trigger. Also, change your recoil spring either way just in case.
 
Sure looks like from your photo that they were not fully chambered at the time of detonation. Most likely from lack of resizing or damaged chamber from the original reloads you purchased.
 
I tend to think, without having the gun in front of me, that the gun was fine with no malfunction. I believe it was overloaded reloads, and possibly weak brass, and even could have been the result of bullet setback that caused the problem.

Solo1000 has been produced by a few different manufacturers. Recent Solo1000 load data generally gives less than predicted velocities, it is very temperature sensitive in an inverse relationship, which is odd and the reason I do not like it, and its performance per grain changes from lot to lot of production. Also, it is not to be compressed or ignited with magnum primers.

The colder the temperature the hotter the load.

You may know, but if not : Bullet setback is when the bullet gets pushed into the case as the nose of the bullet hits the ramp while going into the chamber. The cure is a firm crimp. The result of bullet setback is excessive pressure.

S&W will normally examine the gun for free, even sending a shipping label to the owner.
 
I think you found the problem with the pistol, that slide looks like it is not locked.
For you ammo, I think I would pull all and discard all the brass and powder. I think (just me) I would switch powder to w231 (Hp38) or unique. I don’t think your powder would be bad, but I would start with different brand. As suggested reweigh and measure your bullets and measure your new brass. Then again once resized and when reloaded your oal.
once you establish a good starting point you can then eliminate your loaded bullets and look elsewhere if it happens again.
I had a very similar issue with factory loaded IMI 158gr. The bolt did not fully close on an AR9 and the bottom of the case blew out. Since I was shooting suppressed I didn’t have m6 ears on. Almost deafened me.
 
I’m SUPER late to the party but here’s my question...


Did you pull the projectile and replace with new powder and projectile?


IF so, my 100% guess is the primer is a small pistol magnum primer instead of a standard Small Pistol primer.

Got a question for y'all. I'll try and make a long story short.

Got screwed on some 9mm, overcharged reloads. Had ruptures immediately. Pulled the bullets, trashed the powder, and reloaded a few with a light charge.

Shot a few of those this weekend and had another blow out. What would cause that? My guess is the brass has been overloaded and stressed before. I didn't resize it and read online improper sizing can cause separation. Anyone have any insight?

I know the answer is trash that brass... Just looking to understand more.

The casing with the larger blowout and primer setback is his. Normal primer and smaller hole is mine.

Mine where very low recoil, not close to hot loads.

Gun was m&p 2.0.
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Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
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