yeah, i forgot swaging...I HATE THAT STEP. least it only happens 1x.
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Best piece of advise for a new reloader?
- Thread starter JSimotes
- Start date
Be careful, not fearful -----
take your time
No distractions
If in doubt pour it out
Dont try to be Elmer Keith
No distractions
If in doubt pour it out
Dont try to be Elmer Keith
""ABC'S of Reloading"" is a Highly Suggested READ, by me and many others. First DON'T SHORT CUT !! , Read, Read, Read! That's the #1 best thing you can do. Second, Watch some of the reloading Video's on YouTube. Third ASK Questions!!!, Fourth, establish a/Your Own Safe procedure for reloading. After you get started reloading, BE SAFE! No Distractions, and do not rush through while Reloading. My #1 Rule: "IF IN DOUBT, DUMP IT OUT!!!". ASK questions. Ok Enough for now.
Do Quality work Take pride in your reloads and the rest should come easy
this all day. I mean, I’ll have a few brews when reloading but I’ll weigh every 7th load or so even when I know my press is metering the right amount of powder. Just makes me feel better maybe but a habit I can’t seem to break.
Limit your variables. It’s fun to do a bunch of different things to experiment across a reloading session. When you’re starting out though, focus on making one good batch to see what you’re doing is consistent. Do a small batch. Shoot it. See how it goes. If it’s good... repeat or tweak a little. If you’re going to have one variable (adjusting powder charge through a range)... cool. But mark it and really use what data you can to see what this one variable affected.
Don’t dismiss a chrono as a fluff piece of gear. Knowing your velocity is a key data point and guessing velocity based on data doesn’t mean that’s what you have. If you don’t have a chrono you really *don’t* know.
Even if you start reloading with a single set of dies and a Lee travel hand loader (the one you don’t have to mount that’s like $50 or so... I have one and love the thing for a way to sit in my recliner and deprimed or size) on the cheap... and only have to one powder and bullet choice... that’s fine. Make that one work. Shuffling around between a couple different powders and different bullets needing die adjustments when you’re just starting out makes for less consistent (poorer) ammunition. I’m guilty of it myself... as I start throwing casting w/different hardness... powders... I’m *very* guilty of using mixed head stamps for light loads. Eliminating what variables you can and limiting what ones you introduce is helpful in dialing in a good load.
Also, if you ever think you might have cocked something up... just assume you did. You can’t undo a trigger pull that damages a gun or injures you. Either dismantle the round or (what I do) chuck it.
Maybe more of a me thing, but I also have heirloom guns. They don’t get hot reloads (within load data, mind you). Only my modern-bought stuff that I have no emotional attachment to if something went sideways... not that it ever has. That’s for my peace of mind as I’d be anxious shooting some things and would ruin the fun (and you shouldn’t be anxious about your handloads). That’s a me thing, and realizing that made me finally break down and buy a dedicated .357 for full house ammunition. I love shooting it but would have never felt comfortable shooting similar loads in my late fathers old K frame.
Don’t dismiss a chrono as a fluff piece of gear. Knowing your velocity is a key data point and guessing velocity based on data doesn’t mean that’s what you have. If you don’t have a chrono you really *don’t* know.
Even if you start reloading with a single set of dies and a Lee travel hand loader (the one you don’t have to mount that’s like $50 or so... I have one and love the thing for a way to sit in my recliner and deprimed or size) on the cheap... and only have to one powder and bullet choice... that’s fine. Make that one work. Shuffling around between a couple different powders and different bullets needing die adjustments when you’re just starting out makes for less consistent (poorer) ammunition. I’m guilty of it myself... as I start throwing casting w/different hardness... powders... I’m *very* guilty of using mixed head stamps for light loads. Eliminating what variables you can and limiting what ones you introduce is helpful in dialing in a good load.
Also, if you ever think you might have cocked something up... just assume you did. You can’t undo a trigger pull that damages a gun or injures you. Either dismantle the round or (what I do) chuck it.
Maybe more of a me thing, but I also have heirloom guns. They don’t get hot reloads (within load data, mind you). Only my modern-bought stuff that I have no emotional attachment to if something went sideways... not that it ever has. That’s for my peace of mind as I’d be anxious shooting some things and would ruin the fun (and you shouldn’t be anxious about your handloads). That’s a me thing, and realizing that made me finally break down and buy a dedicated .357 for full house ammunition. I love shooting it but would have never felt comfortable shooting similar loads in my late fathers old K frame.
Write EVERYTHING down. Number of times brass fired, primer make and type, powder charge, type powder, lot # or primers & powder, date loaded, bullet type, bullet weight, type lube, etc.
You can't document too much.
You can't document too much.
Buy a manual.
Read the manual
Never use a load that you see on line that's not in a manual
