Trying to exorcise most of those words from my vocabulary, I jest heard a lot of beeps.
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Best advice to remove rust from inside barrel?
- Thread starter GunNfun
- Start date
I recently (this year) received as a wedding gift, a Browning Citori 20ga that belonged to my late father. He sold it to a buddy of mine's dad back in the day. Apparently it was not kept in a low humidity environment and had rust in both barrels at the chamber end. I ended up just soaking the entire barrel in shooters lube for 12 hours. Took a bore snake to it and viola, no more rust. Now it is kept in my safe with dehumidifier and cleaned regularly.
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Pitted scattergun bore is worlds different from a pitted rifle bore
Proof is in the shooting after the cleaning .
I've seen pitted barrels shoot just dandy !
Mine definitely wasn't pitted. Just surface rust mainly. smooth as a baby's a** now. But I know what you mean, never the same gun after that.
Intensive bore cleaning
This isn't the process that I use everytime I clean a rifle. I recommend it for rifles that you know are heavily fouled, or are starting to lose their accuracy. It's also good for getting any moly, teflon, etc out of your bore.
This process does several things. The hot water heats the factory fouling up, softening it and making it easier to remove. It also heats the barrel, opening the pores in the metal and enabling you to get it really clean. If you have a rifle that is really fouled this will clean it out.
For the intensive bore cleaning, you will need:
1. A good, one piece coated cleaning rod (Dewey, Bore Tech, Tipton, etc.)
2. Proper size cleaning jag (you can also use a bore brush one caliber smaller for this as it will hang onto the patch better)
3. Patches
4. Cleaning rod guide
5. USP Bore Cleaning Paste, or Iosso Bore Paste
6. Any gun cleaning solvent
7. The ability to boil water. If you can’t do that, just stop here and send your rifle to me for safe keeping, as you are too much of a danger to yourself with a firearm
Some things that you don’t need, but it will make it much easier.
1. A long funnel that will fit tightly in the chamber. I bought mine at an auto parts store. It looks like a standard funnel with a long, flexible hose attached, probably for work with transmissions or such. The end fits perfectly in a .308 chamber.
2. A well-mounted bench vise with a pivoting head. You will be working with the barrel both horizontally and vertically, and it will get hot. I did this for years before I got a vise, the vise just makes it easier. If you don’t have a vise, use oven mitts and the kitchen sink.
3. VFG bore cleaning pellets and jag (replaces the cleaning jag and patches)
4. Rod stops
The cleaning process:
1. Remove the barreled action from the stock. Here is where I grab the barreled action in the vise. I also place an empty 5 gallon bucket underneath where I will be working.
2. Grab the barreled action in the padded vise. I use blocks of wood to pad the jaws for this.
3. Rotate the vise so that the barrel is vertical and muzzle down.
4. Insert your funnel into the chamber. Pour 1 quart of boiling water down the bore.
5. Immediately turn the rifle horizontal and insert your rod guide.
6. Coat a patch (or your VFG Bore Cleaning pellets) liberally with USP
7. Lap the barrel 10X, with a stroke up and back being one stroke. Try to keep from going all the way out of the barrel on either end if you are using patches, as they can come off of the jag. The rod stops are great to use here if you have them. A piece of masking tape on the rod to mark the limit will work, also.
8. Clean out the USP with 2 patches wet with solvent, followed by a dry one.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 for a total of 5X. This is enough for a new barrel. One that is excessively foul may need more, but I have never seen one that wouldn’t clean with 5 runs.
10. After the 5th session, I run several patches with solvent through the bore and scrub out the chamber and receiver, also. Then I run dry patches down the bore and thoroughly dry the chamber and receiver. That’’s followed by a little grease on the bolt ways for lube.
11. Make sure there is no water on the outside of the rifle and reassemble into the stock, making sure to torque properly.
If you’re not going to shoot the rifle again for a while, a light coat of oil in the bore and chamber.
This isn't the process that I use everytime I clean a rifle. I recommend it for rifles that you know are heavily fouled, or are starting to lose their accuracy. It's also good for getting any moly, teflon, etc out of your bore.
This process does several things. The hot water heats the factory fouling up, softening it and making it easier to remove. It also heats the barrel, opening the pores in the metal and enabling you to get it really clean. If you have a rifle that is really fouled this will clean it out.
For the intensive bore cleaning, you will need:
1. A good, one piece coated cleaning rod (Dewey, Bore Tech, Tipton, etc.)
2. Proper size cleaning jag (you can also use a bore brush one caliber smaller for this as it will hang onto the patch better)
3. Patches
4. Cleaning rod guide
5. USP Bore Cleaning Paste, or Iosso Bore Paste
6. Any gun cleaning solvent
7. The ability to boil water. If you can’t do that, just stop here and send your rifle to me for safe keeping, as you are too much of a danger to yourself with a firearm
Some things that you don’t need, but it will make it much easier.
1. A long funnel that will fit tightly in the chamber. I bought mine at an auto parts store. It looks like a standard funnel with a long, flexible hose attached, probably for work with transmissions or such. The end fits perfectly in a .308 chamber.
2. A well-mounted bench vise with a pivoting head. You will be working with the barrel both horizontally and vertically, and it will get hot. I did this for years before I got a vise, the vise just makes it easier. If you don’t have a vise, use oven mitts and the kitchen sink.
3. VFG bore cleaning pellets and jag (replaces the cleaning jag and patches)
4. Rod stops
The cleaning process:
1. Remove the barreled action from the stock. Here is where I grab the barreled action in the vise. I also place an empty 5 gallon bucket underneath where I will be working.
2. Grab the barreled action in the padded vise. I use blocks of wood to pad the jaws for this.
3. Rotate the vise so that the barrel is vertical and muzzle down.
4. Insert your funnel into the chamber. Pour 1 quart of boiling water down the bore.
5. Immediately turn the rifle horizontal and insert your rod guide.
6. Coat a patch (or your VFG Bore Cleaning pellets) liberally with USP
7. Lap the barrel 10X, with a stroke up and back being one stroke. Try to keep from going all the way out of the barrel on either end if you are using patches, as they can come off of the jag. The rod stops are great to use here if you have them. A piece of masking tape on the rod to mark the limit will work, also.
8. Clean out the USP with 2 patches wet with solvent, followed by a dry one.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 for a total of 5X. This is enough for a new barrel. One that is excessively foul may need more, but I have never seen one that wouldn’t clean with 5 runs.
10. After the 5th session, I run several patches with solvent through the bore and scrub out the chamber and receiver, also. Then I run dry patches down the bore and thoroughly dry the chamber and receiver. That’’s followed by a little grease on the bolt ways for lube.
11. Make sure there is no water on the outside of the rifle and reassemble into the stock, making sure to torque properly.
If you’re not going to shoot the rifle again for a while, a light coat of oil in the bore and chamber.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2014
- Messages
- 15,492
- Reaction score
- 15,714
- Location
- Metro Atlanta - Buford to Buckhead
True. But also what one person calls great, can be trash to another.
I did something like this recommendation and it worked well. Thank you
so, give us a range report after your friend's .308 gets shot at the range.
Are the new groups post-cleaning any bigger, or with more flyers,
than the groups that gun gave before it was allowed to rust-up?
Are the new groups post-cleaning any bigger, or with more flyers,
than the groups that gun gave before it was allowed to rust-up?
.310 drill bit...make sure to get those spiral lines out of it..
just kidding.
clean it with a bore brush,get it as clean as you can,the shoot it a few times.
just kidding.
clean it with a bore brush,get it as clean as you can,the shoot it a few times.
