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Adventures in Home Hot Bluing using the Blind Hog recipe...... Updated pics pg.4!

markj

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Hello,
Some of you may remember my RIA compact project that included a lot of metal work and an attempt at Rust Bluing.
I used an accelerated rust blue, and the results were OK Thet were nothing spectacular due to some inconsistent color. Well that project inspired me to try my hand at Hot Bluing! Ive got a buddy who also has a project 1911 (pictured in this thread) who agreed to go in for half the costs and we got together yesterday and gave it a shot! And HOLY SMOKES did they ever turn out NICE!!!! But first, Here are some shots of the guns being prepped:

Here they are after bead blasting and polishing the flats of the slides,

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YES, thats a RIA 2011 Railed 1911 with checkered front strap, Bobtail cut and adjustable sights!!!

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Here is a link to the recipe and basic instructions for the bluing salts

I gathered up all the stuff we would need over a two week period. Everything came from my local ACE hardware or Wally world. Total cost of about $100

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Got 3 pots of water going on the grill, one final degrease and two for rinse at different times.

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Got the parts thoroughly degreased and began the process.

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For safety sake we set the salts up a couple of yards out in the grass behind my shop.

Here is the first part to come through the whole process, its the compact frame just after being pulled from a motor oil bath after the bluing.

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That was really exciting. When it first came out of the salts it was really brown, we were pretty bummed! rinsed and went into the oil. While it sat in the oil we both started trying to figure out what went wrong.... Pissed, I pulled it out, and started wiping it down and the layer of brown wiped right off leaving the most beautiful deep dark black I had ever seen!!!!

This process is not at all difficult, it can be dangerous if you are not careful but with proper care, this is a very simple and inexpensive finish. I will definatly be doing it again and would reccomend any DIYer out there be careful and go for it. Its no more difficult then Ceracote or Duracote, its all in the prep work. Hot Blue will NOT hide anything, its gott be perfect going into the tank. If it is, you will be rewarded!

Pics of finished gun in next post...........
 
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Here are a few pictures of the Compact. I hope we get some pictures of the railed gun because that thing looks sick!!!

I let the gun sit coated in oil over night. Got up this morning and couldnt wait any longer. Wiped it down and put it together. Took it outside for a some glamour shots!!

I was having a hard time getting a good picture because of reflections in the polished slide. Finally I said screw it and went with it.

This turned out to be my favorite picture. I love the clouds reflected on the gun.

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Here are just a few random shots.

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Big thanks to Ramroddoc for getting me started in the right direction!
And mtgldr for risking his 1911 and giving me a hand with all this!
 
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Thanks.
Yep, cold blue is great for touch ups, but it will never have the depth of a hot blue job. I was really impressed with how the bead blasted areas came out such a nice flat black.

Ceracote is the only way to go for the DIYer on Aluminum and Stainless parts and Ill still use it for that, but Ill never use a spray coating on another Carbon Steel gun! There just really isnt any difference in effort of application.

Caught some grief for just polishing the stock grip screws :rolleyes: So now it has some SS Wilson Combat hex head screws!! Still shopping around for wood grips, but We really like the feel of these Pierce rubber grips and I think they look ok.
 
Beautiful work, and an excellent post!

Do you mind sharing your process for polishing the slide? That came out looking like the cat's whiskers!
 
Beautiful work, and an excellent post!

Do you mind sharing your process for polishing the slide? That came out looking like the cat's whiskers!

Thanks.
For rollmark removal we used a bench mounted disk sander with 220 grit disk. I must stress to use caution when going this route, it is really easy to tilt the slide juuust a little and S***T you get a little ding or divot in the slide that will take FOREVER to blend out!! (dont ask how I know :mmph: )

After that its pretty easy but time consuming. I started with a large sharpening stone on the bench, layed oild 320 grit on the stone and moved the slide over the paper. Problem is, these flats aint flat, lots of small waves and variations in the surface that you would never see till you tried to polish it!
Finally settled on a wood popsicle stick wrapped in sand paper and progressing from 320 - 400- 600- 800- 1000 then buffing wheel with white polish. They looked like polished chrome!!! but every imperfection really jumped out at you:mad: So I started backing up the grits till I found a balance of even surface and nice polish.....Wound up with a 600 grit finish. (most manuf. stop at 400) so its still pretty darn slick.
 
Very good work! Yep that preparation work is a pain but the reward definitely is worth it. The salts can be re-used until they fail to blue. I have 3 pistols on my salts and a few more guns to blue. Add up the cost per gun and the results to realize the savings.

I'll never again let anyone blue a gun for me.

Now where are the railed gun pics?
 
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