• ODT Gun Show this Saturday! - Click here for info and tickets!

$850 later...

Sorry, I thought he wanted to know if the price seemed high. I didn't realize he wanted us to make him feel better.


Here, let's try again. OP, your truck is bad as **** and who cares what it cost!

No humor huh? You still mad about the bush video?

Damn, how'd I get drug into the middle of this? :)

I am fine, not mad, sad, happy or glad. Well, I am glad to have my truck back. I have been using this particular mechanic for over 10 yrs and have never even considered that the prices seemed a bit high before. But, things change, he now runs his own shop and has guys working for him. He apparently isn't double checking their work and they are not doing a very good job. I am not mad at him, he has a thriving business and doesn't have time to hold everyone's hand, including his customers. I will start looking for a smaller shop that takes the time to do it right the first time.
 
A cheap unit bearing for a 250-350 is 275.00 a good one is 375-425 and it IS NOT a simple 4 bolts on 4 bolts off deal. I just did my pass side unit bearing and ball joints and spent near 400 bucks before I removed the first part. And I bought the cheap unit bearing. When you take into consideration what it takes to change the unit bearing and labor and pads id say its inline.
 
Last edited:
Long story short, brakes went out of truck last week. Well, technically didn't go out, but went from everything is fine to earth shattering, soul stealing, mama hide your babies, scrubbing/squeeling over night. Took it to mechanic, and foolishly told him to fix it as cheaply as possible. That was a huge mistake. Got truck back the next day and it was worse than when I took it in. Still scrubbing and squeeling, but now pulling really bad and entire front end bouncing. Pretty sure something broke on the way back to the mechanic on Tuesday night.

Now back w/ a new wheel hub, all 4 rotors turned and all 4 brake pads replaced.

But, had to have them readjust the front driver's side again since it was still scrubbing.

So, my question is: does $850 sound like a decent price for the above work on a 03 F250 4 wheel drive w/ 8" lift? I may be in the market for a new mechanic's shop. My guy has always done me right in the past, but it seems as if he's priorities are more focused on his drag car than on customers. And, he isn't checking up on his employee's work.

A cheap unit bearing for a 250-350 is 275.00 a good one is 375-425 and it IS NOT a simple 4 bolts on 4 bolts off deal. I just did my pass side unit bearing and ball joints and spent near 400 bucks before I removed the first part. And I bought the cheap unit bearing. When you take into consideration what it takes to change the unit bearing and labor and pads id say its inline.

I still say $850 is too much. The symptoms he described came AFTER this so called "mechanic" "quick fixed" the truck. Something is not right with OP story or the mechic fed him a line of BS for something that went wrong during the brake service. I mean, who the hell gives a vehicle back with worse condition after a quick fix?

I would like to know what he did for the first cheap fix?? I mean, if you have zero pad compound left (squeeling/scrubbing sounds), there is no "cheap fix" you need new pads/and or rotors it you let the pad backing grind into the rotors. Again, something just doesn't seem right? Maybe I am just looking at this too deep...
 
I still say $850 is too much. The symptoms he described came AFTER this so called "mechanic" "quick fixed" the truck. Something is not right with OP story or the mechic fed him a line of BS for something that went wrong during the brake service. I mean, who the hell gives a vehicle back with worse condition after a quick fix?

I would like to know what he did for the first cheap fix?? I mean, if you have zero pad compound left (squeeling/scrubbing sounds), there is no "cheap fix" you need new pads/and or rotors it you let the pad backing grind into the rotors. Again, something just doesn't seem right? Maybe I am just looking at this too deep...

The OP doesn't make **** up, so let's get that straight first and foremost.

The first trip, they put pads on and that was it. He told me when I picked it up that the rotors would need to be turned and the wheel hub and back brakes replaced soon. The front driver's side rotor had noticeable grooves being worn in to it. Incidentally, the front tires were wearing funny, particularly the driver's side. Now, I can not understand nor explain why they didn't do a test drive and see that the new pads were scrubbing like hell? On every rotation of the rotor, it would grab and that was when the front end would "bounce". The rotor was obviously warped?

I still trust the man that owns the shop. My issue is he is no longer doing the work and apparently not checking his employees work. And apparently the employees are not test driving and checking their own work. In addition, I questioned the overall cost of the job done. After checking prices on AutoZone and a few other supply places; wheel hubs range from $100-$400+. One particular hub at AutoZone, for my truck, is $320 + .07% tax gives us $342; so I am assuming this is the hub used? I don't know how long it took to do the job, but was charged for 3 hours labor. I posted the prices earlier in this thread. His integrity was/is not in question. His overseeing of his employees is what I question in addition to cost. Hope that clears it up?

ETA: I hadn't paid him yet for the first job done. I thought he was going to do all 4 sets of brakes on that first trip so I asked him to rotate my tires since they would be off anyway. Since they didn't do the back brakes, I may have had to pay for the tire rotation? I haven't talked to the owner yet, I will find out when I do.
 
Last edited:
Bro, I don't care about that... I'm not in the witness protection program anymore, LOL

Ok, then just for you: C.j.. you were right:

photo.PNG
 
Back
Top Bottom