10 Millimeter Madne$$ or did I screw it up?

[SouthernGA]

This post gets to the side of me that really appreciates anything to do with machining and machine tools.

When I combine that with the gun side of me, the wanna be a gunsmith fever begins to creep in on me.

Thanks for this post series and keep the updates coming.

 

[Wallace's]

Have you ever thought of elevating the iron sights for the co-witness? It seems like a 1-8 dove tail adapter and front block would have been far more simple to accomplish, you also would have a slide that was not structurally weakened.

Just a thought. I really love that pistol!

 

[RamRoddoc]

Started early and after a couple of cups of joe got to sanding.

I used 150 grit to smooth it out and moved to 220 grit to polish it just a bit before blasting and later a good texturing (abrasive blast media) for a coating. I used a section of mirrored glass as a flat surface and a wood block to work small areas and avoid too much sanding near the engravings that might damage them.

The dip has gotta go!

It shows up better after some sanding and slowly will disappear. I hope I don't go through the weld. That would suck!

Flat block sanding with 150 then 220 grit is doing the deed.

Victory is near!

I glass bead blasted (80 grit) the metal at around 60 PSI. Then did a mock up to how it looked. The optic still needs mounted by drilling and tapping the slide. The coating is just sitting on the shelf waiting to be applied after the surface is blasted again with a more abrasive media to allow the coating a good surface to adhere to.

I should have enough gap to get the cover off. I really like the arched curve rather than a straight line cut.

I'll post up more later but it will be a bit as I have other things needing my attention right now.

 

[RamRoddoc]

Have you ever thought of elevating the iron sights for the co-witness? It seems like a 1-8 dove tail adapter and front block would have been far more simple to accomplish, you also would have a slide that was not structurally weakened.

Just a thought. I really love that pistol!

I purchased suppressor (tall) sights and the optic already has co-witnessed with them and shot great. That was the main reason for mounting directly (drill/tap) to the slide. They make a mount but the deck height would elevate.

I don't think there is a lot of stress on this portion of the slide where the mill cut is. It's actually a common practice and the one I saw with an RMR optic was cut even further due to the mounting system. They will do Glock slides but refuse to do after-market.

Lone Wolf will cut the slide for you as well and if you really don't want to go through the trouble (like me) of doing yourself or farming it then that is probably a better option. Check to make sure the sights co-witness-don't assume.
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=156471&TERM=sight melt

 

[Hayata]

Great thread!

I love this kind of post. It's great to see the progress.

 

[loadnplenty]

Makes me want a 10mm lol

 

[magna750]

Looking good! I really like the solution you arrived at.

Give us some lathe pics!

 

[RamRoddoc]

Looking good! I really like the solution you arrived at.

Give us some lathe pics!

Ok Nate, here is some "Shop Porn"..Bow, chicka, bow, wow!

It's a Sears Model 101.07301 it was refurbished recently but is about 60 years old.

 

[RamRoddoc]

Question?

Anyone have any good suggestions on drilling 6 holes accurately and very precise. I need to drill 6 holes, thread them and put post in 4 of the outer holes and thread the central two in order to secure to optic to the slide.

Here is a pic of the points that post in the slide need to fit marked with blue arrows. The red arrows are the holes that need to drilled and tapped. Any suggestions?

 

[Clearance_Clarence]

Are the post holes drilled all the way thru as well?


I would try and make a paper layout ..... put a piece of paper on it then rub with a pencil to trace around the holes ... then punch them out with a hole punch the right size ... from there lay the paper on the slide.

Or make some small posts to fit in each hole with a point on them in the center of the post, insert the posts into the hole, .... dykem the slide.... use the point of the posts to make the location for the holes in the dykem... then put the slide back in the mill and mill the holes big enough to tap.