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Well I found the problem

May want to look into a complete “short block” from SBT out of Clearwater FL. I have put them in many skis and though not as good as factory ( tolerances, etc.) it is a rather easy assembly and you are back on the water. They even give you a “no fault warranty” for at least a year if you “grande” another motor. Hope this helps
 
May want to look into a complete “short block” from SBT out of Clearwater FL. I have put them in many skis and though not as good as factory ( tolerances, etc.) it is a rather easy assembly and you are back on the water. They even give you a “no fault warranty” for at least a year if you “grande” another motor. Hope this helps

Yeah thanks I appreciate the tip. I have seen their rotating assembly kits online. I'm hoping that I can still save the block but I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure I saw that they can also sell you a rotating assembly with oversized pistons if you bore the block. Are they OEM bearings?
 
Isn't a lower end failure like that due to lubrication failure?

Mix wrong ?

Generally yes, though not always the case. I can’t recall if the OP said it was injected or if he was “premixing”. Engine hours can be a cause as well.

I'm certain that it had enough oil. It calls for 50:1 but I always mix it a little rich for extra protection. I think I probably sucked some trash into the water intake and it overheated but I'm not sure. It's also a 25-year-old ski and it definitely hasn't been ridden gently
 
Yeah thanks I appreciate the tip. I have seen their rotating assembly kits online. I'm hoping that I can still save the block but I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure I saw that they can also sell you a rotating assembly with oversized pistons if you bore the block. Are they OEM bearings?
Sorry for the delay. No, they are not O.E Yamaha bearings. From memory though, one of the O.E crank bearings is around $130.00 and the other around $50. The cranks were in the ball park of $1200.00. As for the pistons, yes you can get oversized pistons as long as you have enough “meat” in the cylinder to support a bore. Has the motor been rebuilt before?
 
What does the cylinder wall look like. An alloy block I presume so a new leave, piston and rod with bearings and piston pin, crank inspection and machined. Doing it right can get reel expensive real fast. I would say go with reworked short Bock and reuse the top end or new long block. Check out pricing and weigh the difference. In
 
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