I'm hooked. Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out.
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The Undecided Project
- Thread starter Sharps40
- Start date
First Buffler is ready. To keep the Buffler side to the right (show side of the gun) he'll have to face the shooter. I suppose if that's the one chosen, it'd only be appropriate to load heavy with a high flash powder. This one will be much easier to get into the range of .5" (factory front sight height) up to about .6". Would have to run the calculations from the bore to see but I'm thinkin .53 to .57 inches high is about right for the adjustable rear sight and expected bullet weights/speeds.
I think I need to shave just a bit more of the rim off the head of the buff to have it just right.
I think I need to shave just a bit more of the rim off the head of the buff to have it just right.
Back home from KY and in the shop. Finally found some v belts to get the drill press up and running again and with the extra Blood Wood in the shop from the last set of grips, started in on roughin out a pair of grip panels for the Pimp Cannon.
A bit different this time. Rather than taper from the inside, I tapered the outside. Lets me look at the wood under the surface and no suprizes like cracks or knots or flaws that get uncovered after the fit up to the frame is completed. If there was a flaw, I could cut another blank from the remaining board. Looks like there is enough Blood Wood left to do one more set of grips for a Colt or Blackhawk or if resawn, two sets for a 1911.
Rough positioned. Oversize and I have yet to fully fit the RP Grip frame to the Blackhawk. So, it'll move around later an I should be able to mate the wood to the frame gap free.
I worked the inside and outside surfaces of each grip panel on the belts until they are dead flat in every direction using a straight edge to check. Thickness are very close to the same with a touch extra wood on the palm side for fitting later. I'll most likely make these panels dead flat on the bottom rather than beveled up. The bottom thickness is just at or a bit under 1/2" and will likely finish up between 3/8 and 1/2 thickness at the bottom. But, wood to grip frame fit is about perfect for this stage of the project. No gaps and this dense hard wood shouldn't warp as it ages.
Some of the light dark light dark striping that will come out better with polishing and final urethane finish.
Inside the frame is traced onto the panels, just a guideline for now. A bit extra so I can move it around a bit and come up against the Blackhawk frame later. Up top a pair of divots drilled in the wood. Seems the Ruger Trigger Spring pin is a bit longer than the RP backstrap is wide. Rather than grind off the pin, miss and booger the backstrap, a divot does the job and a bit oversize to allow me to move the wood panels just a hair forward later to touch the frame.
I guess I oughta be lookin around for a stainless steel screw for this set of panels but then, maybe a blued/blackened set of hardware would look nice too. No brass I think. Too many colors.
A bit different this time. Rather than taper from the inside, I tapered the outside. Lets me look at the wood under the surface and no suprizes like cracks or knots or flaws that get uncovered after the fit up to the frame is completed. If there was a flaw, I could cut another blank from the remaining board. Looks like there is enough Blood Wood left to do one more set of grips for a Colt or Blackhawk or if resawn, two sets for a 1911.
Rough positioned. Oversize and I have yet to fully fit the RP Grip frame to the Blackhawk. So, it'll move around later an I should be able to mate the wood to the frame gap free.
I worked the inside and outside surfaces of each grip panel on the belts until they are dead flat in every direction using a straight edge to check. Thickness are very close to the same with a touch extra wood on the palm side for fitting later. I'll most likely make these panels dead flat on the bottom rather than beveled up. The bottom thickness is just at or a bit under 1/2" and will likely finish up between 3/8 and 1/2 thickness at the bottom. But, wood to grip frame fit is about perfect for this stage of the project. No gaps and this dense hard wood shouldn't warp as it ages.
Some of the light dark light dark striping that will come out better with polishing and final urethane finish.
Inside the frame is traced onto the panels, just a guideline for now. A bit extra so I can move it around a bit and come up against the Blackhawk frame later. Up top a pair of divots drilled in the wood. Seems the Ruger Trigger Spring pin is a bit longer than the RP backstrap is wide. Rather than grind off the pin, miss and booger the backstrap, a divot does the job and a bit oversize to allow me to move the wood panels just a hair forward later to touch the frame.
I guess I oughta be lookin around for a stainless steel screw for this set of panels but then, maybe a blued/blackened set of hardware would look nice too. No brass I think. Too many colors.
Back home from KY and in the shop. Finally found some v belts to get the drill press up and running again and with the extra Blood Wood in the shop from the last set of grips, started in on roughin out a pair of grip panels for the Pimp Cannon.
A bit different this time. Rather than taper from the inside, I tapered the outside. Lets me look at the wood under the surface and no suprizes like cracks or knots or flaws that get uncovered after the fit up to the frame is completed. If there was a flaw, I could cut another blank from the remaining board. Looks like there is enough Blood Wood left to do one more set of grips for a Colt or Blackhawk or if resawn, two sets for a 1911.
Rough positioned. Oversize and I have yet to fully fit the RP Grip frame to the Blackhawk. So, it'll move around later an I should be able to mate the wood to the frame gap free.
I worked the inside and outside surfaces of each grip panel on the belts until they are dead flat in every direction using a straight edge to check. Thickness are very close to the same with a touch extra wood on the palm side for fitting later. I'll most likely make these panels dead flat on the bottom rather than beveled up. The bottom thickness is just at or a bit under 1/2" and will likely finish up between 3/8 and 1/2 thickness at the bottom. But, wood to grip frame fit is about perfect for this stage of the project. No gaps and this dense hard wood shouldn't warp as it ages.
Some of the light dark light dark striping that will come out better with polishing and final urethane finish.
Inside the frame is traced onto the panels, just a guideline for now. A bit extra so I can move it around a bit and come up against the Blackhawk frame later. Up top a pair of divots drilled in the wood. Seems the Ruger Trigger Spring pin is a bit longer than the RP backstrap is wide. Rather than grind off the pin, miss and booger the backstrap, a divot does the job and a bit oversize to allow me to move the wood panels just a hair forward later to touch the frame.
I guess I oughta be lookin around for a stainless steel screw for this set of panels but then, maybe a blued/blackened set of hardware would look nice too. No brass I think. Too many colors.
That and brass is a royal pain to keep clean/nice! You sure do take your time! I am rather intrigued to see this finished up!
I take the ol mountain mans approach to brass. let it brown a bit. Once the it goes from bright shiney to tan tint the oxidation slows a lot. It'll stay that color for years and makes me happy cause the shine is a PITA to maintain!
Doin some payin jobs this month so it pulls me out of the shop a bit. Its also a bit slow cause I'm experimenting again. With the front sight and also with a touch of lateral cylinder play. I think a bit of attention to the cylinder bolt will help there. Plenty accurate but also a touch more wear overall than I was expecting. In the end, I think its going to make a fine all around workhorse and hunter but I doubt it'll be a Bullseye kind of match gun.
Doin some payin jobs this month so it pulls me out of the shop a bit. Its also a bit slow cause I'm experimenting again. With the front sight and also with a touch of lateral cylinder play. I think a bit of attention to the cylinder bolt will help there. Plenty accurate but also a touch more wear overall than I was expecting. In the end, I think its going to make a fine all around workhorse and hunter but I doubt it'll be a Bullseye kind of match gun.
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It needs a little parts love. Just a bit looser than I'd like but pretty much in spec. I replaced the worn cyl pin with a new ruger stainless and still might put in a Belt Mountain. But before I do that I think we'll investigate tightening up the lock up as that seems to be where its quivering just a touch. Plenty accurate but I figger we might be able to show how to make it a bit better with some low buck low skill repairs.
No No. We are deeply entrenched in low buck low skill. Tonights work is all bout patience and how a lil file work can get ya home!
Before the grip panels can be more closely fitted and drilled for pins and screws, the trigger guard and back strap has to be better fitted to the frame.
So, the rear of the strap is filed to meet the rear of the frame and make a straight line for the front edge of the grip panel. Here the left side lower is done and ready to start on the right side lower. A safe sided file is used to keep from undercutting the forward loop of the grip.
As indicated earlier, the right side of the grip frame is a pretty good match to the frame so only light filing was needed to bring it very close to the frame in preparation for final polishing to a finer fit.
All the excess metal in the RP grip frame was on the left side. And you can see the waviness of the bottom edge of the Ruger frame. Probably this represents cuts in by the buffing wheel all those many years ago when the factory polished it for bluing. But, 98% fitted and ready for final polish to a fine fit and all the lettering and numbers on both sides both preserved and remaining crisp and clear. At this time, all the work is done with hand files. Final work will be sand paper backed by a file and then some buffing with all the parts assembled, if needed. But that buffin is a ways off yet.
Between mating the lower trigger guard loop to the frame and some spotting in and carefully filing the front of the grip panel to fit, I came up with this initial fit. Can't get it much better until there are screws and pins installed and we'll see then if I did good.
I retraced the reference lines and you see, a tiny change at the top makes for a big change at the bottom....good I left some extra wood on there for now. Once its installed, the lines will be almost academic.....the grips will be securely installed and sanded into place.
Don't worry about the pins. They are way too long and will get shortened and domed and blued before all is said and done.
Before the grip panels can be more closely fitted and drilled for pins and screws, the trigger guard and back strap has to be better fitted to the frame.
So, the rear of the strap is filed to meet the rear of the frame and make a straight line for the front edge of the grip panel. Here the left side lower is done and ready to start on the right side lower. A safe sided file is used to keep from undercutting the forward loop of the grip.
As indicated earlier, the right side of the grip frame is a pretty good match to the frame so only light filing was needed to bring it very close to the frame in preparation for final polishing to a finer fit.
All the excess metal in the RP grip frame was on the left side. And you can see the waviness of the bottom edge of the Ruger frame. Probably this represents cuts in by the buffing wheel all those many years ago when the factory polished it for bluing. But, 98% fitted and ready for final polish to a fine fit and all the lettering and numbers on both sides both preserved and remaining crisp and clear. At this time, all the work is done with hand files. Final work will be sand paper backed by a file and then some buffing with all the parts assembled, if needed. But that buffin is a ways off yet.
Between mating the lower trigger guard loop to the frame and some spotting in and carefully filing the front of the grip panel to fit, I came up with this initial fit. Can't get it much better until there are screws and pins installed and we'll see then if I did good.
I retraced the reference lines and you see, a tiny change at the top makes for a big change at the bottom....good I left some extra wood on there for now. Once its installed, the lines will be almost academic.....the grips will be securely installed and sanded into place.
Don't worry about the pins. They are way too long and will get shortened and domed and blued before all is said and done.
