Reloading questions???

[MGill]

Thanks for the info guys!!! I agree with some of you that the progressive stuff is way down the road. I like to learn things the old fashioned (correct) way first. Then later on down the road jump out there and pick up the newfangled tools that make life easier. Like I said I don't plan on mass producing ammo, I am just looking for a way to produce high quality match grade ammo and keep overall cost at a reasonable level. If for some reason my bride didn't get the press I circled and the charge to Brownells on my bank statement is for something else. I plan to pick up the LEE single stage kit after Christmas. Hell I may order one anyway just because they are so inexpensive.

The info you guys have me about getting a case remover was great, but it got me thinking. What are some other must have accessories every beginning reloader. I am pretty sure the kit I asked for comes with a powder hopper, the press, 5-0-5 scale, a Speer manual, libe pad, and maybe a few other things. But I know it doesn't come with a trimmer, why is this? Is it not an absolute necessity? Thanks again guys.

 

[MissesC]

Books are your best friends. Read, read, then read some more.

 

[BHJ]

Yes a case trimming tool is a necessity. Lee Makes a little hand tool that does very well when combined with their caliber specific case length gauges and shellholder. (order it at the same time as the dies) It can be chucked in a drill if you have a bunch to do and the price is right. You're gonna need a good manual too.
Heck I can highly recommend the Lee Anniversary kit and Modern reloading by Richard Lee is a great first manual. It has everything you need to know to turn out some very good ammo. I have a Lee deluxe die set for every caliber of bolt gun I own that they make em for. I love the neck sizer for my bolt guns.
Really can't say enough good about their products.

 

[MissesC]

Don't trim your cases with a drill. Do it by hand.

 

[Constitution Hour]

Once you get started you will figure out the case trimmer thing. I shoot a .308 remington 700 and a custom Lapua in .338. That said when you start out you need to measure all of your brass for overall length.
There are two basic types of dies, full length sizer and neck sizer. The difference is the neck sizer die simply resizes the neck only. This is the best method (IMHO) when reloading your own brass (fired in your gun).
The full length really works the brass and will cause growth (getting longer) over time thus requirring trimming it down to spec. Every chamber is different even on the same model built on the same day.
I have a bore scope (camera) that I use on any new rifle to get an idea of chamber depth with a spent casing, you can use several different one (engths) to figure out how long is too long but that is getting way ahead of where you are at right now.
I would suggest a bullet comparator, Hornady makes one that is not too pricey.
This is used to measure the length of your finished round at the Ogive. The ogive
is the bearing surface of the bullet, the part that will engage the grooves in the barrel. The reason this is important? Not all bullets are the exact same length at the tip or the ogive, they vary. To keep consistant length always measure at the ogive for overall length (once you know the depth of your chamber). They also make a guage for measuring that.
I use a spent casing and a bullet gently chambered to get my true chamber depth. From there I start .030 off the lands (grooves) for overall length then work in or out to find the most accurate depth for that load.
Again it will take time and it is a learning process. When you start changing the overall length there is alot to consider, magazine type, effects on case pressure due to seating depth etc.
Just take it slow, read alot and ask questions.
The goal in the begining should be to load safe reliable ammo, once you have that down you may find that all the other tweaking is, interesting, but perhaps not worth the effort for a hobby shooter.
It is easy to get into the hobby and spend alot of $$$ on chronographs etc. with very little if any noticable accuracy improvement for an average target shooter.

 

[Apollo]

That scale should work fine, there are many more scales out there that have more function. Invest in a good set of dyes, and take your time when you first set your locking rings. Start with a hand trimming tool. I have a case prep center that I use when I need to make a bunch, but I always find myself on the couch watching tv prepping cases with the hand cutter/chamfer tool and pocket cleaner. They are pretty cheap under 20 bucks and the resizing is dead on everytime. Plus it's the smoothness you can really notice with the hand stuff. I would start with that and then look around at the different case trimmers and case prep centers. A bullet puller will come in handy cause you will need it! A couple more books would be nice too. Everyone has different load data depending on projectile weight and powders. And it's very informative on to do and not to do's....

 

[SouthernGA]

I have a Dillon 550 that I have used for pistol loading for a few years and have now built a setup to reload 223 on the this 550 press.

Have been reading about and thinking that some of these case prep chores like de-priming before tumble for cleaning. would be best suited on a single stage.

Could use another toolhead setup and the 550 as a single stage with station 1 only for de-priming but I am finding that I want a single stage for some of the odd chores associated with 223.

I have been eyeballing a RCBS Rock Chucker to add to the bench.

Any other 550 or 650 (or progressive 223 loaders) break these other .223 jobs off on single stage presses?

 

[Apollo]

Yes I do it all the time. 223 are the worst for prepping!! I usually will double check every 5 rnds for powder measurement and if its off I take the last five and finish them on the single stage then go back and set everything back up on the ap

 

[MissesC]

I used to reload for my 7-08 Encore. I had a 10" and 15" barrel and had to keep the brass separate for each barrel. I found that keeping the brass specific for each barrel without resizing was much more accurate than resizing (and much less trimming, OALing, setting seating depths). Of course, this will not work with a semi, but should work good for a specific bolt. Not having to resize also lengthens the life of the brass.

 

[moosensquirrel]

Learn to solo before you try "barrel rolls". Start with a good reloading manual if one did not come with your press, and try to understand each and every phase of what you are doing and why.