Reloading for Glocks.....

[GreenPanther]

Never had an issue with loading 9mm for Glocks and having cases buldge. The only Glock 9mm issue I had was with a G19 I had that was not completely stock and Glock said it had a few lighter springs in it.
I would get light primer strikes that would not fire with CCI primers. Put them in the XDm, and they shoot fine.

 

[RamRoddoc]

As stated the generous factory Glock chamber will accept just about anything you pick up or shoot on the range. So don't worry about the Lee modified .380 Mak die to push through the cases for resizing them. It's possibly a help for those who swap to a match grade barrel/gun and find chambering issues with reloaded ammo.

Shooting copper jacketed is a bit more expense but easier clean up both unsuppressed/suppressed. If you stick with jacketed or plated (Berry's/Rainer) bullets the factory barrel is fine. They shoot cleaner.

Case bulges occur with high pressures (toward max or bit over pressure) and less metal in the chamber contribute. Poor/thin brass also can be an issue. Keep your loads under max, brass in good condition and hopefully you won't see this.

The primary issues I have experienced with reloading for factory standard 9mm pistols are:

The light weight frame's (primarily polymer-Glock) and the smaller compacts (do more with less) may present some reloading challenges. Back in 1991 I purchased my first Glock 17 and loaded up 115 grain FMJ target/range loads (reduced velocity) with a fast powder (Win. 231/Bullseye). I had function issues and tried increasing the charge (to max), adjusting the taper crimp and adjusting the COL. While it got better it still was never 100%. My reloading buddy had the same issue giving him fits with his G17, he went to 124 grain bullet and the issue resolved. It did as well for me and I don't reload 115 grain 9mm.

Reflecting on it and after some research, it appears that the faster burn rate-rapid power spike and light weight bullet-frame was most of the issue. The same rounds worked fine in a Browning Hi-Power (all steel) or Beretta M9 (aluminum frame). Winchester 231 and Accurate Arms #2 are close in burn rates. Accurate number 7 (much slower burn rate) is touted as being an optimal 9mm powder.

http://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html

I shoot a lot of target/reduced/sub sonic loads through match barreled Glocks. I'll start low and work my way up until the slide operates reliably and bump the powder weight a couple of tenths of grain for fair measure. While these operate about 100% for me, my Dad on the other hand has serious function problems even when trying to choke it like a snake (not limp wristing it). Bumping the powder up a 1/2 grain more or so seemed to correct it for him.

Steal COL from known good to go factory rounds, set up a few, check to make sure they fit your magazine, check to make sure the fit your chamber, load your magazine and check to make sure they load, check for bullet set-back (too light of a crimp) then off to the range with 20-30 to see if they function well.

It's a great feeling when you get it right and overcome any hurdles presented.

 

[ngcsugrad09]

I've loaded several tens of thousands of rounds for Glock 9mm pistols.

The keys to reliable ammo I've found are the following:

-Setup your sizing die correctly and not just barely sizing them.

-Run medium velocity loads or higher. Trying to get super light loads causes malfunctions; and I've found the guns just don't feel right in operation. I can shoot a mild load much faster than a super light load.

-Chamber check your ammo. Use at least the factory barrel or a chamber check gauge. I've used the EGW gauge and I've never had a problem. What fits in a stock Glock barrel doesn't always fit into other guns like Sigs, HKs and M&Ps. If you're going to use the barrel, know what to look for in chamber checking.

-When chamber checking your ammo, ensure your primers are seating at flush or below. This is reloading 101, but you'd be surprised how many people I've seen with poor reliability (fail to fire) or even fail to feed because of high primers.

 

[TattooedGunner]

Watch some hickok45 videos on YouTube. That guy shoots Glocks a LOT and he reloads for them.

 

[jcountry]

Do y'all separate out handgun brass by manufacturer?

Doesn't seem like it would make a difference on a Glock, but I have heard both "yes" and "no."

-Thx

 

[ngcsugrad09]

Do y'all separate out handgun brass by manufacturer?

Doesn't seem like it would make a difference on a Glock, but I have heard both "yes" and "no."

-Thx

I separate brass from steel and aluminum. If I was loading for bullseye matches, I'd consider it. Otherwise I don't sweat it.

 

[jba6511]

Do y'all separate out handgun brass by manufacturer?

Doesn't seem like it would make a difference on a Glock, but I have heard both "yes" and "no."

-Thx

I don't bother separating for plinking. Just keep an eye out for NATO stamped cases to see if they are crimped.

 

[old frank]

I don't separate brass, I just clean it, inspect it and reload it.

I have loaded many thousands of rounds of 9mm, 10mm and .45 acp for my Glocks. I have used FMJ, HP and plated rounds too. I shoot a lot of Bayou Coated lead bullets also.

I have never had any problems once I learned to full length size my brass and plunk test it to make sure it drops right in and out of the removed barrel.

 

[ParaSloth]

I've loaded (just getting started myself) with no problems for my G17 (by the way ... made in the USA just thought I'd throw that out there). Using RCBS Partner Press and RCBS dies. Only issue just this past time was that I had a light primer strike (CCI small pistol). I stuck it back in the chamber again and it shot off fine.

Oh ... and from experience don't get 837 miles from home and bend your decapping pin - now I can't find any!

 

[woodstock]

bought some glock once fired in 9mm and 40, both had more bulge than I have seen from other gun makers but sized OK and shot well.