Painting a Synthetic Stock? Any Suggestions?

[Rommel]

Bough a plain-jane 10/22 the other day anticipating another build. Probably should have just opted out for the model 1261 (threaded barrel) but having as I have already had two of those decided I wanted to go a different route.

Anyway getting back on subject I haven't decided if I will be putting a threaded barrel on there yet so as of now I just have the standard barrel, black synthetic stock. I didn't really want to go the Hogue route as I have heard that they do add some weight to the rifle and I can't use a barrel band (I would like to retain that option). I'm wanting a light rifle as opposed to my other .22's for bushy tail season. I had thought about the Duracoat method but I got to thinking: someone on the ODT has had to have experimented at some point and painted a synthetic stock. I'm really wanting to paint it OD green. Any suggestions on what would work (types, brands of paint, etc.) and/or methods of doing so?

Help would be much appreciated. Oh, and BTW if you know of anyone that is selling a threaded barrel (non bull-barrel / .920) please let me know.

 

[Gigabyte71]

I painted my M&P 15-22 with Rustoleum, finished it off with a clear coat. Seems to work well. Without the clear coat, the areas that are touched the most rubbed off real fast.

 

[ADAM]

I'd like to know how to remove cerakote...I guess acetone?

 

[spencer60]

Krylon Fusion... best paint for plastics short of Duracoat. Doesn't flake off like regular spray bomb paints are prone to do when flexed...

 

[h34choctaw]

Alumahyde-when you factor in it does not need primer it actually is reasonably priced-especially when you consider its performance. Best thing to do is blast with 200 grit media. Followed by thorough wash down with acetone. Keep a dryer handi for keeping the part above 90 deg. The key is LIGHT coats...the key is LIGHT coats....did I mention the key is LIGHT coats so thin you can see about 60-70% of the previous coat??? Well that will go a long ways to improving finish and adhesion. Then keep at a temperature above 90 deg to cure for a couple of hours take out and don't touch for a week.

 

[REDX]

Alumahyde-when you factor in it does not need primer it actually is reasonably priced-especially when you consider its performance. Best thing to do is blast with 200 grit media. Followed by thorough wash down with acetone. Keep a dryer handi for keeping the part above 90 deg. The key is LIGHT coats...the key is LIGHT coats....did I mention the key is LIGHT coats so thin you can see about 60-70% of the previous coat??? Well that will go a long ways to improving finish and adhesion. Then keep at a temperature above 90 deg to cure for a couple of hours take out and don't touch for a week.

This, before I started going the duracoat and cerakote route, I used Alumahyde 2 from Brownells. IMO its just as durable as Duracoat and easier/faster to use. Also like mentioned above keep above 75 degrees and use a hair dryer in between coats and don't touch it for a week

 

[REDX]

I'd like to know how to remove cerakote...I guess acetone?

if its air cure you can use the aircraft paint stripper other wise you will need to blast it.

 

[RdKill]

Krylon fusion is awesome and cheap...found at walmart, lowes, home depot etc. It is made for plastic and it makes a molecular bond. It dries quick but takes about a week to harden/cure so it's best to paint it and leave it be for at least a week...then it's like it was meant to be that color. I camo my pmags with it so that they match any color AR furniture. I have painted several rifle stocks and they hold up very well. If you ever do get a scratch, it's easy to touch up.

 

[h34choctaw]

Here you go-Alumahyde and the always popular OD Green Hi-Point:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igOGj60agMA

 

[Jbum]

Here is my 10/22 Krylon Project.................