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Do I really need a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die?

Well I primed up some 2k 9mm cases last night and was getting ready to load up my own cast that I've been letting sit for a few weeks. I immediately found the Lee FCD to "Squinch" (squish+pinch) down my soft w/w casts.. I moved on to a Dillon crimp, same results.. I'm not sure if Dillon makes different ones or how palmettomoon palmettomoon gets it to work. I'm using an RCBS Seater because I have 2 different seating stems and the RN on it works great. The Lee Seater was deforming tips..

Finally I pulled out my Hornady Set and used just the crimp feature on the seater, and Viola! Perfect crimps without the squinch. R rosewood I never knew Lee made Taper Crimps, Ebay has em` $18.18 shipped/tax. Have you ever used the Hornady Seater Crimp? Is it comparable/the same thing without the seater?

I'm not new to reloading 9mm, just cast. I've loaded several cast in .40, 10mm, and several rifle cartridges using the standard Lee FCD and never had this issue. I'm glad I finally found a solution for smooth chambering and no undersized boolits. I'll leave the FCD to the jacketed bullets, straight walled, and rifle cartridges.
 
About the only dies I have used is Dillon, and Lee. I have 1 set of Pacific in 7TCU. Seems like I bought a Hornady 7mm neck size die, but don't use it much. I have found that depending on what you are doing, different brands may have the better solution. No 1 brand is the end all be all.

I discovered the Lee taper crimp dies after I started casting and had undersize issues. I had read where some folks drive the carbide sizing ring out of their lee FCD die, but I like the feature with jacketed.

In 7TCU, the set didn't come with a separate crimp die. I ended up getting a 2nd set of RCBS in a trade somewhere. Took out the seater portion of the RCBS and use it as a crimp only and then backed the Pacific seater out so it just seats.

Rosewood
 
Any pics of the "crumpled" rounds? I'd expect the die needs backing out just a bit. I use a Dillon crimp in the 1050 for 9mm and have never had a crumpling or even a feeding issue after 50 - 60k rounds.

I used a borrowed Lee before that. I still use a Lee factory crimp for .223, 7.62x54R, 30.06.
 
Finally I pulled out my Hornady Set and used just the crimp feature on the seater, and Viola! Perfect crimps without the squinch. R rosewood I never knew Lee made Taper Crimps, Ebay has em` $18.18 shipped/tax.
Midway doesn't list them, but just found them on Midsouthshooterssupply for 10.30. I thought I had bought from Midway, but maybe it was Midsouth instead. Would have to pay shipping, but could wait until you have other things to order to make it worthwhile.
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0000690780/9mm-luger38superacp380-auto-taper-crimp-die


Viola? Don't think I have met her....

Rosewood
 
I now load all my pistol ammo on a Dillon 650. All Dillon dies have a separate crimp die. It is an advantage to be able to adjust the seating die in one station and adjust the crimp die in another station. If you are trying for best accuracy then use the crimp die. If you are not that concerned then just use the one die to seat and crimp. There are all kinds of bullets and if you are able to adjust the seating depth without disturbing the crimp, then its much easier. I do a lot of adjusting on the seating die and hardly ever have to change the crimp. For the cost if on a Progressive or any four or more station press, I would pay the little extra to have a crimp die. Just me.
 
Alright I took apart the Dillon and Cleaned it, I got it on trade. It looked brand new, however it was dirty as hell on the inside. I'm not exactly sure if that was it, or if I really did have it down too far. Upon setting it back up it works perfect, somehow before it was undersizing the boolits base by .002-.003". After testing everything again the Hornady is right there with the Dillon on the crimp. As for seating die I have noticed that the Lee may actually undersize the boolit by .001"-.002" (maybe its just mine or maybe I'm just crazy) but I'm gonna stick with the RCBS since it feels smoother (no verifiable undersizing) and the RN stem is contoured perfectly for my LEE 356-125"s.

All in all I'm not gonna mess with taking the carbide ring out of the Lee FCD for future use with jacketed. Also At this point I don't see the need for a Lee Taper Crimp as I have 2 working options. It's nice to know one exists for future reference.

R rosewood auto-correct got me on the *voilà, I wish there was a Viola that'd be down to help load a couple thousand 9mm ;)
Sadly I spend more money on components and still work with a bench mounted primer, and an older Lyman TMAG II turret so it's a bit more work than you Blue Kool-Aide kids :)
 
R rosewood auto-correct got me on the *voilà, I wish there was a Viola that'd be down to help load a couple thousand 9mm ;)
Sadly I spend more money on components and still work with a bench mounted primer, and an older Lyman TMAG II turret so it's a bit more work than you Blue Kool-Aide kids :)

Autocorrect and the voice to text gets things wrong all the time for me. It bugs me when it changes a real word to something else. If you misspelled, it is one thing. Have had it even change phrases and one word to something totally different.

I started with the Blue Kool-Aide because it was suggested by a friend when I started reloading. I didn't even know who Lee was then. Had no where to start so I took his suggestions. Now I am glad I did.

Rosewood
 
So like I said that took a while.. 1,200 130gr RN, 200 130gr HP's.
Castloaded.jpg


The RCBS RN left occasional scrapes on the LEE 356-125 2R's and the Flat Nose left little rings around the HP's.

I wanted to know if anyone has any input on the Lyman "M" dies as far as expanding for the bullet besides just flaring the case mouth. I was looking to use one for most my cast loads. 9mm since its tapered, as to not smash/bulges the soft lead bullets in the case. Also for .223/5.56 PC GC sized to .225..

I understand that the die might only do .356 and .224 respectively if that.. but any little bit would help on not undersizing or deforming the bullets while seating. This guy that I got 6 - Lee sizing dies from and a New pair of Lee 6 Cavity handles from on Armslist ($75shipped) got to talking about how it is nearly impossible to get .223/5.56 cast to be accurate worth a hoot. I'm just looking to eliminate any possible contributing factors.

I appreciate this thread as it came at a time when I actually found it necessary, Thank y`all for any contributions.
 
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