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Do I really need a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die?

Keep this in mind....Brass springs back, lead does not. When you "swage" your brass down to a desired "spec" you are also swaging your lead bullet down too. For jacketed it may not pose too big a problem, but for cast it definitely will make your bullets undersized. It is a gimmick. I bought into it admittedly so. It created undersized bullets for me. I cut the carbide ring out and use it as my crimp die after seating now. If a standard reloading die set does not reform the brass where it needs to be, or the bullet being seated creates bulges in brass then there's a reloader/reloading problem.

When I had my FFL and wholesale pricing, I bought one for each of my reloaded calibers. After poor results I cut each one of the carbide ends off and only use them to crimp now. Just do your seat and crimp in 2 steps and you'll be good.
 
Never used one. If your ammo chambers OK, why undersize it? Too much crimp on a pistol round is bad for accuracy and can increase chamber pressures.
Over crimped taper crimp is similar to a roll crimp and only cannelured bullets should be rolled crimped.
PS I use RCBS dies on a Dillon. Work fine.
 
What bullets are you going to use? The FCD WILL swage your bullets undersized if you are loading bare lead or Hi-tek/powder coated.....Mine was going down to .354" I was getting bad leading problems. Switching to a dillon crimp die solved that issue.
If you are loading plated or jacketed then the FCD is fine. Not needed but fine.
 
124gr fmj’s

What bullets are you going to use? The FCD WILL swage your bullets undersized if you are loading bare lead or Hi-tek/powder coated.....Mine was going down to .354" I was getting bad leading problems. Switching to a dillon crimp die solved that issue.
If you are loading plated or jacketed then the FCD is fine. Not needed but fine.
 
I too prefer seating and crimping in separate steps, but I use a progressive. If was using single stage, I might be lazy and do it in 1 step.

The other thing I don't like about seating and crimping in 1 step, you have too many adjustments to make. Seems like the few cartridges I tried this way, I crushed a few cases setting it up. Never had that issue with 2 steps. Just easier to me.

I use the Lee Factory crimp in most all rifle and pistol cartridges. However, when loading lead boolits, I don't like the factory crimp die. It may swage down the boolit smaller than what you want causing leading. I therefore ordered the Lee Taper crimp die for 40 & 9mm and the roll crimp for the .38/357 for when loading cast boolits. They were cheap, like $14 I think.

The factory crimp die also doubles as the "bulge buster" (works with that kit) when using in straight wall cases like 40/10mm. Can't use on 9mm because it is tapered case.

Rosewood
 
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