Car audio gurus needed

[Cadcom]

My son has an issue with a Kicker TC10 sub in his Mustang. He has a basic Kenwood head unit with 3 separate RCA outputs for front and rear speakers and a separate RCA output for sub. He has two amps. One is a 1000 watt Pioneer which is feeding his front and rear speakers. They sound pretty good and have been installed for several months. This weekend we added a 500 watt Pioneer amp and bridged it to power a Kicker 10" sub box. The Kicker sounds very faint and kind of "fuzzy". We swapped in a friends cheap Dual brand 10" sub box and it thumps away like a redneck version of freaknik. Swap the Kicker back in and low static-ish sound and fuzzy distortion. His brother has the same amps and Kicker sub in his Tacoma and it sounds pretty good. So we swapped the same model Kicker TC10 from the Tacoma into the Mustang and experience the same low static-ish sound and fuzzy distortion - we know this sub is good. The Mustang Kicker sounds great once connected in the Tacoma as well. My question is WTH?!?!!?

*After all this we connect the cheap Dual sub back up and it sounds as it should. What am I missing here?

 

[KSouth]

W/o looking at what you got
Going on check the low pass/ high pass switch on the amp. Being fed directly to the sub you want low pass. Make sure it’s turn down then turn up as needed. Check ground and make sure all is hooked up tight. It maybe the amp. Sounds like it. If so get a kicker solo amp or Jbl. With a 10 in I personally would go with at least a 220-250 continuous solo amp.
Just food for thought. Hope this helps.

 

[rOmiLaYu]

Going on check the low pass/ high pass switch on the amp. Being fed directly to the sub you want low pass.

Other way around. Low pass is going to cut out all the bottom. You want HPF to cut out all the top end.
I'm dumb this ^ is wrong.

Past that, I got nothing. I couldn't even help dude with his thermostat last night.

 

[Cadcom]

W/o looking at what you got
Going on check the low pass/ high pass switch on the amp. Being fed directly to the sub you want low pass. Make sure it’s turn down then turn up as needed. Check ground and make sure all is hooked up tight. It maybe the amp. Sounds like it. If so get a kicker solo amp or Jbl. With a 10 in I personally would go with at least a 220-250 continuous solo amp.
Just food for thought. Hope this helps.

LPF is enabled. If it was the amp wouldn't the other amp have the same results?

 

[KSouth]

Other way around. Low pass is going to cut out all the bottom. You want HPF to cut out all the top end.

Past that, I got nothing. I couldn't even help dude with his thermostat last night.

That’s what I meant. Hard to explain if not looking directly at it.

 

[rOmiLaYu]

LPF is enabled. If it was the amp wouldn't the other amp have the same results?

Un-enable it.

All that's coming through if LPF is enable is top end stuff. And that's not going to move a sub speaker.

Nope, all wrong. I had a brain fart.

 

[KSouth]

LPF is enabled. If it was the amp wouldn't the other amp have the same results?

Yes. Make sure it isn’t cranked all the way up. Some amps have a “sweet spot”.

 

[KSouth]

Have you tried that amp in another car?

 

[DanKATL]

LPF is enabled. If it was the amp wouldn't the other amp have the same results?

How about a picture of the amp setting and the terminals?

 

[rOmiLaYu]

How about a picture of the amp setting and the terminals?

So now the guy with line arrays as an avatar is going to pretend he knows something about gear?