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what brake bleeder system do you use

I have always used a vacuum pump system.
1. First thing bench bleed the mater cylinder.
2. Start at rear of vehicle and do both sides with someone topping of the MC so it doesn't go dry.
3. Repeat for front.

If you change brakes a lot or remove brake lines regularly there are dry lock fitting that do not allow air into the system if you replace a caliber or other component in a racing situation. They snap loose like a air coupler fitting and allow zero air in the lines. I don't what your situation is but it never hurts to have too much information.
 
I inherited the 2 person “Down, Up!” Method from my Dad that ran a 2 car race team and never used more than old plastic peanut butter jars with a hole cut in the top, and a hose sticking out that fit snug on the bleeder valve. Oh and a Turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder to save a little time.
 
Plus this
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I made my own bleeder about 20 years ago. It works well with cast iron master cylinder but I have never tried it on a plastic housing. I drilled a hole in a piece of flat steel plate, tapped it and attached a pressure quick connect fitting. I attached a piece of thick rubber to the bottom with weatherstrip adhesive. The plate is then clamped to the top of the master cylinder with two large "C" clamps. I connect a hose with a pressure regulator to the quick connect and apply about 20 psi and proceed to bleed the system. Just do one wheel at a time to prevent inducing air into the brake system, I refill after each wheel cylinder. Bleed off the air pressure before removing to refill the M.C. Easy to bleed brakes by yourself. The fitting id offset isolate the front and rear reservoirs. Bleed the rear first and the rotate the plate 180 and do the front brakes.


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