Savage stocks?

[smokintalon]

I did a quick search and didn't turn up what I was looking for...

I have a savage 110 long action that I am having built into a 1+ mile nail driver. This is all being done on a budget (ie: how cheap can I do it?). I am in need of a stock and apparently aftermarket stocks are rare for savage actions. I've seen choate but was advised several times to stay away from them. I was also told that a stock with an aluminum bed would be best for long range accuracy. Does anyone have any suggestions that won't cost me a fortune? I saw a few decent stocks around the tune of $800+... Not exactly what I want to spend here

-Chris

 

[Brian618]

Take a look at Bell and Carlson Medalist Stocks, they have a full bedding block for under $300, or you can look at the hogue overmolded with bedding block that are under $200. Remember though that you get what you pay for and the stock is very important in making an accurate long range rifle. There are a lot factors to consider when wanting to shoot very long range and how the stock fits you is one of the most important. I would recommend saving up and buying the best stock you can afford with an Adjustable Cheek Piece and adjustable length of pull so that you can dial in the rifle for perfect eye relief and alignment as well as trigger ergonomics. Buy once, Cry Once.

Alternative you can install a Whidden V Block in an Existing Stock. I've done several with good results. It's cheaper than a complete stock but requires a lot of work to install and has to be done very carefully.
http://www.whiddengunworks.net/vblockinstructions.html

 

[sniper22]

Subscribed for the nail drivers' details

 

[BackWoods]

http://www.boydsgunstocks.com

Everyone seems like say good things about these. Hopefully, one day id like one for my Savage fv-sr.

 

[BHJ]

Info man info.
You're going to need more info than just a 110 to select a stock.
What style of stock are you needing?
Is it centerfeed or stagger feed?
What's the distance between the action screws?
is it detachable box mag or blind mag?
What caliber?
What barrel profile?
Budget? Just like in the movie Mad Max "speed costs money, How fast do you wanna go?"
And if you don't mind me asking exactly why were you warned off of the Choate ?
There are lost of good factory and aftermarket options for Savages.
And finally 300-500 yards is a long way out. 1K is a long long way out, 1 mile is a long long long heluvalong way out.
Do you want to give some more details on your planned rig?
It would help in suggesting what would work for your application.

 

[REDX]

Look at the Bell and Carlson Stocks or better yet a XLR element Chassis, FYI 1 Mile and "Cheap" never go together. For your "mile" hammer what caliber have you considered?

 

[smokintalon]

I'll take a look at the Bell and Carlson stocks. I was told the Choate stocks weren't very rigid and after a few rounds down range, the stocks would flex. I'm guessing they must not have the aluminum bed in them? They were the only ones that I actually liked the design of.

Anyway, I am using a Savage 110 long action from a 7mm rem mag (blind mag, center feed). The action is being trued now. Barrel is a Brux stainless match grade 1:10 twist, 26", AO Varmint Contour, chambered for 300 win mag. I will be shooting 300 win mag (somewhere in the starting neighborhood of 220gr). It will also have the APA Fat Bastard brake. I was originally going to shoot the 7mm but ballistics at 1,000 yards show both the 7mm rem mag and the 300 win mag dropping at almost the same rate. I'm not sure what the respective muzzle velocities were or barrel lengths for these computer calculations, but seeing that made me want to shoot the 7mm a helluva lot less!!

 

[smokintalon]

I don't mind doing the work on the stock to install a v block but would that be just as effective as a high end stock? What makes the high end stocks that much better? Just the aluminum bed?

 

[REDX]

Ok, got you. I'm actually helping build your rifle. Mile hammer? You are about to get the new guy in big trouble. 1000 yards +, no problem. The materials used in the higher end stocks are stronger and help prevent flex, which in turns helps to increase accuracy. For what you want to do I would strongly look at the XLR chassis. I will probably build my 2nd lapua on one.

 

[BHJ]

The Choate super sniper is about as flexible as an old pickup truck bumper and weighs about the same. The grip is very large on em as well. It has a solid steel spacer which also acts as a counterweight for those long barrels. The choate is probably the most economical candidate you're going to find. The Bell and Carlsons don't come in a tactical style for the long actions even after years of pleading from the Savage shooting public. They do have a sporter style for the long actions.
If you don't mind spending a little north of $500 a manners T5 would be a good place to start. You can add an adjustable cheek rest later.
Just as a thought about shooting a mile I would recommend that unless you already have the barrel ordered that you look into a .338 edge and 30" at that. Parent case is the .300RUM which can be fire formed and it has more capacity than the .338 RUM.

In the grand scheme of things it may be easier and more economical to buy a Savage factory 110BA in .338 Lapua for about $1800 and put some good glass on it.
It already comes in a factory aluminum chassis with all the bells and whistles. I've seen em online for under $1800 with free shipping.