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DIY 1911 accuracy job.

I believe that slide has been destroyed

Yeah! I going to do all my 1911's like that. Should help the resale value too!

OK I've been patient....

WHY THE HECK DID YOU RUIN THAT FIREARM? WHAT WERE YOU THINKING? ARE YOU KIDDING ME? JOHN BROWNING JUST TURNED OVER IN HIS GRAVE. IF THE NEXT ONE SHOOTS HIGH, JUST RAISE THE TARGET UP. DO YOUR FIREARM A FAVOR, BUY A BOOK ON IT BEFORE YOU START 'SMITHING. YOU COULD ALWAYS TRY CALLING RIA (775-537-1444) AND TELLING THEM WHAT YOU DID, THEY MAY LAUGH SO HARD THEY SEND YOU A FREE SLIDE.

If you have a reasonable explanation as to why you did this then I apologize and retract the above comments.

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Frankly this looks like a "Bubba" fix to an improperly installed aftermarket barrel. There is absolutely no way I would ever consider doing this to any firearm, let alone a 1911. I sure as hell wouldn't trust a gun that came into my shop looking like that.

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Didn't really care about resell value. I got this one for $425 with the Jarvis barrel and a trigger job with a new hammer and sear. I'm going to upgrade sights now and put in a trigger with an overtravel screw. Maybe I'll stop there. It depends on how the gun shoots.
I would not even think of firing that weapon after that bubbajob ! ;[
www.rentokil.com_blog_wp_content_uploads_2010_01_iStock_000000189774XSmall_DIY_fail_300x199.jpg
ALL THESE ^^^^^^^

And the griffin armament logo ....lol
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Your post seems to suggest that if it isn't pretty, it isn't safe.

The feature (recently brought to my attention) was patented in 1968.
http://www.google.com/patents?id=By...&ct=result#v=onepage&q=patent 3380346&f=false

A poster on snipers hide wrote the following:
I did one just as you have done 20 or so years ago.
It only has about 20-30K rounds through it so far so I can't speak to longevity! HA!

What it did for me was that in just "taking up the slack" NOT decreasing the lug engagement , that the first round 'flyers' were eliminated... also proved out to be a sub 3" 50 yd. pistol.

Some savvy guys a few years before me had already proved that it works.

One thing that i did was to solder/weld over the heads and refinish...no see um.

Don't worry on the naysayers.

FWIW

Obviously Kart's Easy fit barrel operates on the same principle.

You are entitled to your opinion, but the facts and the products already on the market are not agreeing with you.
 
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I believe I would opt for an old "fix". I cannot get comfortable with the picture of adjusting the screws and the barrel lugs being moved away from the slide lugs.

"The Group-Gripper was designed to be an inexspensive alternative to fitting a match barrel. About 90% of the time they work great! To be used ONLY with a stock barrel, the system forces the barrel up into the slide, under spring pressure via the leaf spring in the spring guide that comes with it. The link has a notch that indexes on the spring. When the slide returns to battery, the barrel returns to roughly the same place everytime and does increase accuracy of a stock barrel. You might be suprised how well they work and how many are out there being used today. Not everyone wants or can afford a match barrel fit. I think it improves the group rather than real accuracy. Hence the name....Group Gripper! "

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=117667
 
I've seen a group gripper once. It was in a Norinco 1911. It seemed to work pretty well. I have no experience with it. If it does work, Wilson certainly doesn't work hard selling them. Probably because they would lose a sale of some other part like a match barrel (that really won't do much for accuracy if it is a drop in part).

I looked briefly and saw one review where a Colt's groups shrank from 3" to 2" average at 25 yards. <30%. My gun was much sloppier and shooting more like 6-8" groups, so I would need a much larger improvement than 30% for this one to be worth a crap, but maybe it would work better in a sloppier gun?

It's a product I'd like to see more tests of. The long linking accuracy cure seems half assed, while the slide stop to barrel feet fit is how real bullseye guns work. Spring tension in conjunction with a long link might make for a better combination, but it still seems that the spring tension isn't a complete substitute for poorly fit parts (side to side play and their associated battering of parts wouldn't seem to be likely countered with a spring completely).
 
you're right the group gripper has been around for a long time and is better than nothing but not the right approach.. full contact on the lower lugs is the way to go. your thougth about side to side motion is correct...no way a link and stop can keep alignment. just too sloppy


better off getting a good barrel and have it installed correctly


want to do it yourself with minimum tools then the Kart easy fit is the best way to go.
 
Fellas, we may not use the GGer but there is a lot out there that is looking for the new mouse trap. And for some of the buyers, it probably helped a bunch.
Me, I would drive down to Lexington (NC) and visit 1911Tuner.

If I was friends with someone in the area who could fit my slide to frame with slide fitting bars and weld up and remachine my lower barrel lugs the same day for $150 and beer, I'd have done that. Putting $400 into a RIA pistol, and sending the gun out for several months is where the custom shop work really gets un-attractive. I wouldn't doubt those guys would probably not extend their accuracy guarantees to the RIA either.

I'm hoping to fit the sights and new overtravel adjustable trigger today and if that goes well, I'll be done with this one and ready to test it whenever I can get to the range.
 
Sheesh, maybe I'm lucky but my 1911 is super friggin accurate already.
If you spent less than $1000 for it, I'd say you are very lucky.

I've owned and sold a lot of 1911's but only a few I could say were accurate. My Les Baer was accurate. My Kimber Royal was accurized by a gunsmith and was accurate, My SA TRP Operator was accurized was accurate, My Kimber CDP Pro is pretty accurate.


The one thing all those guns have in common is that they are all either production custom (Les Baer and Kimber Custom Shop), or full custom guns. The Kimber CDP Pro I guess I lucked out on, because I've since handled a Stainless Raptor Pro II and it was not fitted quite as well as mine.

Some guys out there might shoot offhand like a Ransom rest [people like Rob Leatham, Todd Jarrett, Kyle Lamb etc], but I shoot about a 3.5" group at 25 yards slowfire. So unless the gun is capable of one hole groups, the groups at 25 are going to be 6-9" groups. In my opinion, human error is too big to be tolerating 1911's that don't group ~1.5-2" for any serious work.

Obviously I'm not alone with that philosophy, as the FBI HRT requires their 1911's to group 1.5" average for 25,000 rounds. Those few guys who shoot better than 3-4" at 25 offhand- they shoot sometimes as much as 240,000 rounds a year. That mountain of ammo and training time to bring a production pistol into the 5" offhand group performance range, is an ineffective solution to the accuracy problem when compared with a couple of hours and a pair of set screws.

People like to say spend it on ammo, but the honest truth is that some training is very effective in improving the shooter, but some reasonable work on the gun is equally effective. In any area of life it makes sense to optimize performance, and I think that a reasonable balance between weapon and shooter performance is optimal.
 
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