Is that a 12" target? If you are consistently on that, there is nothing wrong with your shooting that a few more rounds downrange won't fix. When you said on paper, I'm picturing the giant silhouettes like they sell at most indoor ranges.
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Competition shooting, and accuracy help
- Thread starter insulinboy
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Is that a 12" target? If you are consistently on that, there is nothing wrong with your shooting that a few more rounds downrange won't fix. When you said on paper, I'm picturing the giant silhouettes like they sell at most indoor ranges.
Check the local ranges for IPSC or IDPA matches. You'll enjoy those, and meet a lot of good people. And probably get a lot of advice, and opportunities to shoot with others that can help.
And... look for bowling pin matches, once you can hit a 5" circle at ten yards, consistently. If you can't, you won't have fun. But if you can, they're a blast. Go too fast; hit nothin'. The trick is to go as fast as you can hit, and no faster. Age and eyesight is really no barrier. The ones in the NE Atlanta 'burbs are pretty informal, but a long way from you. I would guess they're pretty informal most places.
And... look for bowling pin matches, once you can hit a 5" circle at ten yards, consistently. If you can't, you won't have fun. But if you can, they're a blast. Go too fast; hit nothin'. The trick is to go as fast as you can hit, and no faster. Age and eyesight is really no barrier. The ones in the NE Atlanta 'burbs are pretty informal, but a long way from you. I would guess they're pretty informal most places.
As mentioned earlier, you'll get about as many opinions as posts. As with any endeavor, start within your abilities.
My suggestion is to start with a 1" dot at 3 yards. Get to know your sights and your trigger press. When you can consistently hit the dot five times out of five shots on five dots, move it back to four yards and repeat. Do that until you get the dot to a point where you can't see it. You might want to consider moving up to a 2" dot at that point.
The important thing to remember is consistency. If you get tired, clear your pistol and take a break.
I hope this helps.
My suggestion is to start with a 1" dot at 3 yards. Get to know your sights and your trigger press. When you can consistently hit the dot five times out of five shots on five dots, move it back to four yards and repeat. Do that until you get the dot to a point where you can't see it. You might want to consider moving up to a 2" dot at that point.
The important thing to remember is consistency. If you get tired, clear your pistol and take a break.
I hope this helps.
Thanks guys, I do appreciate the help
and yes, that is a 12" target. I have a 5" steel target as well as some 2" steel targets that I love to shoot with the rifle. No paper to go through, and you know you hit the target without going down range to check. I'd just like to be good enough with the pistol that I can consistantly hit those targets and I'm not close. With my Sig .22 I very rarely hit them. With the .380 Walther I'm much better and can hit the 5" target a little less than 50% of the time, when I double tap I never hit it the second time though and I would like to be able to do that
and yes, that is a 12" target. I have a 5" steel target as well as some 2" steel targets that I love to shoot with the rifle. No paper to go through, and you know you hit the target without going down range to check. I'd just like to be good enough with the pistol that I can consistantly hit those targets and I'm not close. With my Sig .22 I very rarely hit them. With the .380 Walther I'm much better and can hit the 5" target a little less than 50% of the time, when I double tap I never hit it the second time though and I would like to be able to do that
Analyze why you can hit with the .380 and not the .22. Understanding that will illuminate the path to improvement. It's got to be trigger, mass, grip, or sights.
A common thing is to "jerk low" with a heavy or long trigger.
Also, a heavier gun is harder to jerk or pull one way or the other. But obviously, this depends on the trigger.
Grip-- sometimes the shape/size of the grip causes one to have an awkward grip on the gun, pulling it one way or another as the trigger is pulled. Inconsistent placement of your finger on the trigger exacerbates this. (Ideally you want a gun where the trigger is such that your finger falls perfectly, naturally-- this is why they make a variety of triggers for target guns, especially 1911s.)
Sights-- sometimes people just shoot better with one kind of sight vs. another. Learning that-- and buying/modifying guns to put on the sights that work for you is the solution.
Study those things. Take your time. Dry fire if you can (don't know if that's OK with the .22 or not), and analyze what you are doing. A good coach can quickly identify it, but you can too with some thought.
Double taps are a very advanced technique, and only work when you have all the fundamentals under control.
A common thing is to "jerk low" with a heavy or long trigger.
Also, a heavier gun is harder to jerk or pull one way or the other. But obviously, this depends on the trigger.
Grip-- sometimes the shape/size of the grip causes one to have an awkward grip on the gun, pulling it one way or another as the trigger is pulled. Inconsistent placement of your finger on the trigger exacerbates this. (Ideally you want a gun where the trigger is such that your finger falls perfectly, naturally-- this is why they make a variety of triggers for target guns, especially 1911s.)
Sights-- sometimes people just shoot better with one kind of sight vs. another. Learning that-- and buying/modifying guns to put on the sights that work for you is the solution.
Study those things. Take your time. Dry fire if you can (don't know if that's OK with the .22 or not), and analyze what you are doing. A good coach can quickly identify it, but you can too with some thought.
Double taps are a very advanced technique, and only work when you have all the fundamentals under control.
The triggers are about the same as far as how heavy the trigger pull is, the sig has a MUCH longer pull though
The Sig is considerably heavier than the PK380 actually.
The guns I have and that are on my to buy list are there because of the grips. I have a small hand but long fingers so its very difficult for me to find a gun with a grip that feels okay. Most double stack pistols have too large of a grip for me to grab comfortably.
Sights on both pistols are only different in how they adjust
Get yourself some snap caps and dry fire your ass off. Work on pressing the trigger smoothly and straight to the rear without disturbing your front sight when the trigger breaks. Concentrate completely on the front sight while dry firing. It will tell you a ton.
I prefer prefer safety stix or no snap caps for repeated dry fire. Snap caps (even good ones with a brass rim) tend to fail and shed parts into your weapon. Of course, that does give you practice clearing jams.
Safety Stix:
http://www.missionfirsttactical.com/Products/MFT-Classic/SAFET-T-STIX-SINGLE-PACK
This here... We do an IDPA in Jasper the 3rd Sunday of every month and one here in Ellijay every Wed. if interested PM... Regarding your shooting. Many people think "practice makes perfect" Bill Rogers would say "only perfect practice makes perfect". I used to burn up ammo and all I was doing was reinforcing bad habits. One great thing is that almost all the good shooters are following the same principals and you will find these guys/gals at competitions. I spent a lot of money on training, but the best thing I got from it was the continued relationships with great shooters who introduced me to other great shooters that all helped and inspired me. You will find these folks at IDPA and USPSA and 3 gun and elite training programs.
Everyone has different products they like as with anything. Personally I dry Fire on a completly empty chamber with my striker fired guns, but that's not necessarily advisable for all firearms.
