Any plumbers in the house?

[godawgs90]

So the expansion tank on my water heater just blew a pinhole leak. I'm sure replacing the tank is easy enough... but my question is: If my wife was using the outdoor hose to water flowers, would that effect the water heater in any way? I feel like I just replaced this tank 3-4 years ago...

Thanks ODT

 

[allamericaninfidel]

I’m not a plumber and I did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night

However I work as a general contractor and as a homeowner I don’t call in help

It should have lasted longer 8-10 years

Your hose bib usage should not have any effect that I can think of as its fed off the cold water side

As a water heater is used and is refilled with cold water - pressure is created in that water being heated - the expansion tank absorbs this pressure

Does the pressure relief valve drip water ?

Do you have a pressure reducing valve ?
The street pressure could be too high effecting the water heater and thus the expansion tank

The pressure in the tank should be 10-14 psi - There should be a label on it

The tank should feel warm at the bottom and cool at the top when operating normally - something to check in the future maintenance

Not too hard to replace is relative to your abilities

Hope this helps

 

[harrycalahan]

if I remember right most tanks are only rated to last 5 years.

The outdoor spigot will cause the whole house pressure to fluctuate thus causing the bladder to compensate. But none of that would have induced a failure. Just time for a new tank.

 

[jbi1104]

Expansion tanks really do not have an industry standard for life expectancy. There are a few brands (Watts) that had a defect during manufacturing. The roller that kept the coating even on the inside was slightly out of round, causing pinhole leaks in the exact same spot on all the tanks made before they caught the issue.

No offense to the above posters, but most of the advice given is not accurate as it relates to these tanks. The problem of thermal expansion became a big issue after we closed the water systems with dual checks and backflows. Water naturally expands in piping and in open systems it simply reverse flowed into main and the problem was relieved. After adding dual checks and backflows and creating closed systems, there was no where for the thermal expansion to go, hence the reason we use thermal expansion tanks.

They are all shipped at 40 psi in order to be flown on aircraft. On the bottom of the tank is a place to pressurize the tank properly. First you have to know the incoming main pressure of your house. After you know this, you have to use a bike pump and pressurize the tank to the same pressure as your house pressure. If you skip this step, then the tank isn't going to do what it is designed to do, so in essence it is an expensive useless item installed on your plumbing system.

As for install, they are not difficult at all. Since you already have one, you simply shut off the water and unscrew it from the female fitting they used. Then teflon new tank threads and simply screw it back into fitting where the old one was located. Restore water, bleed air from lines and you are done. Remember though you must know incoming house pressure and then must charge tank to same pressures.

 

[JSoko]

On the bottom of the tank is a place to pressurize the tank properly. First you have to know the incoming main pressure of your house. After you know this, you have to use a bike pump and pressurize the tank to the same pressure as your house pressure. If you skip this step, then the tank isn't going to do what it is designed to do, so in essence it is an expensive useless item installed on your plumbing system.

Great post, I would have to say you are or were a Master Plumber

and YES the above must be done, before you install the tank
directions are in the box

most plumbers dont even know to do this

I will add: when you check your whole house pressure
it's a good idea to turn the water heater down and open a faucet or hose bibb, just in case the water heater had just heated the water causing a rise in pressure
this will assure that the house pressure is at the set point of the PRV
NOTE: any pressure above 75 PSI is a sign your PRV is malfunctioning

Expansion Tanks are steel, and are susceptible to leaks, regardless of age

 

[godawgs90]

Expansion tanks really do not have an industry standard for life expectancy. There are a few brands (Watts) that had a defect during manufacturing. The roller that kept the coating even on the inside was slightly out of round, causing pinhole leaks in the exact same spot on all the tanks made before they caught the issue.

No offense to the above posters, but most of the advice given is not accurate as it relates to these tanks. The problem of thermal expansion became a big issue after we closed the water systems with dual checks and backflows. Water naturally expands in piping and in open systems it simply reverse flowed into main and the problem was relieved. After adding dual checks and backflows and creating closed systems, there was no where for the thermal expansion to go, hence the reason we use thermal expansion tanks.

They are all shipped at 40 psi in order to be flown on aircraft. On the bottom of the tank is a place to pressurize the tank properly. First you have to know the incoming main pressure of your house. After you know this, you have to use a bike pump and pressurize the tank to the same pressure as your house pressure. If you skip this step, then the tank isn't going to do what it is designed to do, so in essence it is an expensive useless item installed on your plumbing system.

As for install, they are not difficult at all. Since you already have one, you simply shut off the water and unscrew it from the female fitting they used. Then teflon new tank threads and simply screw it back into fitting where the old one was located. Restore water, bleed air from lines and you are done. Remember though you must know incoming house pressure and then must charge tank to same pressures.

Where and how would I check the main house pressure coming in from the main?
Big thanks to you all who chipped in advice! I'm headed to get a new tank now.

 

[1EDsson]

Where and how would I check the main house pressure coming in from the main?
Big thanks to you all who chipped in advice! I'm headed to get a new tank now.

Pressure gauges are available at the big boxes, not expensive. they just screw onto the faucet.

 

[Hayata]

Grab a water pressure gauge while you're at it if you don't have one already - less than 10 bucks if I remember.

If you don't have a faucet you can connect to you can use the drain valve on the water heater. Like someone said, run some water first to let the pressure drop before measuring.

Outside spigots can be used to measure pressure, too, but make sure they are south of your PRV. The spigot at the front of my house is same pressure as city.

 

[godawgs90]

My house was built in early 70's... and I'm not seeing any Pressure regulator coming into the house. I'm assuming that's going to make life easier.

 

[1EDsson]

Basement? Look where the main enters into the home.
Slab? Look near the water heater, or by the main shut off inside the home. They had them even way back then.