All this talk about 1911 frames...

[bluesman2a]

Here is the 2011 I made awile back..... One of my favorite pistols to shoot....

wwboater , I really like that one. The one you and I talked about before was setup by my smith. I'm going DIY on this one, just to learn. Did you fit the rails on yours? If so. would you mind talking about how you did the fitment on yours? I have a rough-fit now (it will slide on, but not move freely), and from what I've read this is the point where in a normal build you'd start in with lapping compound. Being that the "upper" in this case is aluminum, is there a different process that should be used here?

As for the fun-shooting part, yeah, I know what you mean . I've gotten this one running a LOT better and it's a ton of fun.

 

[wwboater]

The rails on my fit great with out any input from me.... I got lucky. But you are correct, do not use lapping compound on your alum upper.... You are on the right path with the stones. I bet you will have to stone very little to get it smooth..... Advise that has always served me well when it comes to 1911's is to remove very little metal and then test fit. It has taken me several hours before to fit a single part. Take your time and you will be pleased with the results...

 

[wwboater]

Where did you get the STI upper and what was the cost?

 

[bluesman2a]

What's the total cost of all parts there bluesman2a I am thinking of building one, I recently sold a ss 1911 and I got sellers remorse haha I want another one and they aren't cheap.

That's a kind of hard question. I believe several other builders who are a LOT better than me have said this already: you don't BUILD a 1911 because of price. That goes double for a 1911 in .22. If you want a fun-gun that's affordable, GSG makes a plenty-nice 1911-22. I have one and I enjoy it. The goal behind this and a couple other builds is because I wanted a complete-to-spec pistol with the exception of the barrel/upper. I also chose very specific parts because they have a reputation for quality/durability, not because of price. On the flip side, I also bought some parts used, so I got a better deal on them.

The short answer, I can't see getting out of this for less than $700-1000 depending on how you do it.
For the purposes of discussion/education I'll publish my build sheet. This is mostly from Shooters' Connection. I have found them to be fast shipping and very helpful, and good pricing too.

• STI Government Carbon Steel Basic Frame Kit 1 $269.
• 893T Ed Brown Tactical Ambi Safety - Stainless 1 $51.16
• 555-700200-00 STI Grip Safety - Series 70-Stainless 1 $27.00
• 15MS ISMI Main Spring (15lb) $4.17
• 7S Wilson Extended Slide Release SS $29.63
• P28SC Caspian Stainless 11 Piece Pin Set 1 $25.16
• R814-S Shooters Connection Plunger Tube Spring $2.00
• 10211 EGW Ignition Kit - Trigger Kit 1 $124.99
• 817F25 Ed Brown Main Spring Housing Flat Checkered 25 LPI - S.S. 1 $52.76
• 844 Ed Brown Magazine release 1911 with Button - Stainless 1 $28.76
• 458S Wilson Fully Machined Bar Stock Plunger Tube SS 1 $18.95
• 813S Ed Brown Grip Screw Bushing - Stainless 1 $7.95
• R245S Caspian Stainless Ejector (.45) 1 $19.62
• 804 Ed Brown Hex Head Grip Screws - Stainless 1 $7.52
• 10171 EGW Hammer Strut - Titanium 1 $10.40
• 11140 EGW Mag Catch Lock SS Slotted $1.99
• MC100 ISMI Mag Catch Spring $2.00
• STI Trigger and insert (Speedshooters) $67
• Total for the lower to this point I have $725ish. (and you're still not done yet).
• Upper options:
  • Tactical solutions:
    • http://www.shootersconnectionstore....-Conversion-Single-Stack-FR-Sights-P1075.aspx
    • http://www.shootersconnectionstore....ack-Threaded-COMBO-Rail-and-Sights-P1078.aspx
  • Nelson:
    • https://www.nelsoncustomguns.com/store/

 

[Radoslaw murawski]

That's a kind of hard question. I believe several other builders who are a LOT better than me have said this already: you don't BUILD a 1911 because of price. That goes double for a 1911 in .22. If you want a fun-gun that's affordable, GSG makes a plenty-nice 1911-22. I have one and I enjoy it. The goal behind this and a couple other builds is because I wanted a complete-to-spec pistol with the exception of the barrel/upper. I also chose very specific parts because they have a reputation for quality/durability, not because of price. On the flip side, I also bought some parts used, so I got a better deal on them.

The short answer, I can't see getting out of this for less than $700-1000 depending on how you do it.
For the purposes of discussion/education I'll publish my build sheet. This is mostly from Shooters' Connection. I have found them to be fast shipping and very helpful, and good pricing too.

• STI Government Carbon Steel Basic Frame Kit 1 $269.
• 893T Ed Brown Tactical Ambi Safety - Stainless 1 $51.16
• 555-700200-00 STI Grip Safety - Series 70-Stainless 1 $27.00
• 15MS ISMI Main Spring (15lb) $4.17
• 7S Wilson Extended Slide Release SS $29.63
• P28SC Caspian Stainless 11 Piece Pin Set 1 $25.16
• R814-S Shooters Connection Plunger Tube Spring $2.00
• 10211 EGW Ignition Kit - Trigger Kit 1 $124.99
• 817F25 Ed Brown Main Spring Housing Flat Checkered 25 LPI - S.S. 1 $52.76
• 844 Ed Brown Magazine release 1911 with Button - Stainless 1 $28.76
• 458S Wilson Fully Machined Bar Stock Plunger Tube SS 1 $18.95
• 813S Ed Brown Grip Screw Bushing - Stainless 1 $7.95
• R245S Caspian Stainless Ejector (.45) 1 $19.62
• 804 Ed Brown Hex Head Grip Screws - Stainless 1 $7.52
• 10171 EGW Hammer Strut - Titanium 1 $10.40
• 11140 EGW Mag Catch Lock SS Slotted $1.99
• MC100 ISMI Mag Catch Spring $2.00
• STI Trigger and insert (Speedshooters) $67
• Total for the lower to this point I have $725ish. (and you're still not done yet).
• Upper options:
  • Tactical solutions:
    • http://www.shootersconnectionstore....-Conversion-Single-Stack-FR-Sights-P1075.aspx
    • http://www.shootersconnectionstore....ack-Threaded-COMBO-Rail-and-Sights-P1078.aspx
  • Nelson:
    • https://www.nelsoncustomguns.com/store/

Thank you sir that was very helpful really appreciate it

 

[bluesman2a]

Updates on page 1 for the Everglades Ammo sharpening tool and a glass plate kit I picked up today.

 

[jjrock]

bluesman2a - Lookin good. Found your information useful...I'm going to go by Peachtree woodworking and pick up that glass kit. I have one more shipment I'm waiting on and then I'll start a build thread too It will be the "newbie" version. I hope you and the veteran 1911 builders know that I will be showing up at your doorsteps with beer, pizza, or whatever sustenance needed as I'm sure I'll need some guidance!

 

[bluesman2a]

I hope you and the veteran 1911 builders know that I will be showing up at your doorsteps with beer, pizza, or whatever sustenance needed as I'm sure I'll need some guidance!

The only claim to "builder" I can make, so far is this. I've done a BUNCH of research, and I've paid to have some built to varying degrees of completeness, but my only claim here is that I'm making the mistakes before some others

 

[bluesman2a]

OK, so I made some more progress tonight. I got my first stone and rail fixture in, so I did some more tuning on it. I was able to get it VERY close to where I would want it for a 320 grit stone, but I kept getting a "bump" in the action of the slide. I puzzled over it a LOT.

• At first I thought it was as the slide passed over the rear shelf where the disconnector is.
• It "hit" there every time and would get tight from there on out.
• I worked that area down a little, marked the slide, and was showing no contact so I kept looking for the problem.
• That was when I noticed this little STEEL insert for the slide-stop. That insert ALSO has a tab that is on the back, it looks like something you can take off/adjust when fitting the rails. There are two MINISCULE screws for this, it looks like.
• QUESTION: What should I do at this point? I don't want to get the rails any looser, they fit the upper just fine, it's just this insert that's dragging. Should I consider removing it and sanging/fitting it as well, or some other course of action?
• I should also note that the newer tactical solutions kit I have on my 2011 does NOT have this plate, but wwboater 's build has something similar on his too.

Pictures:




Tag @markj will4me jglenn have any of you guys seen this before, or have any advice here?

 

[jglenn]

Assuming the slide is aluminum I can see why they would have a steel insert for the slide stop as it does take some beating. if you have removed the insert and determined that it's the cause of the drag, I can't see where cleaning up the bottom to be even with the slide would be enough to hurt the stop area. you can always throw some cold blue on it to determine if it's rubbing the frame..


all that said I have not worked on a 22 upper other than an old Kart many years ago

a quick call to STI would answer your question I bet