All this talk about 1911 frames...

[bluesman2a]

Made me want to get started on my first full build. I'm going to use this thread to show progress on my build, talk about tools and things that work for me. This is my first full build and I expect to make plenty of mistakes.

So the build itself will be:
full size government frame from STI
with an STI .22 conversion top end
EGW ignition parts
SVI short flat trigger
STI ambi safety
STI grip safety
Ed brown FLAT MSH
Ed brown mag release
Wilson extended slide stop

 

[bluesman2a]

I managed to get some work done today.
Fit the trigger
Fit the mag release
Fit the grip safety
De horned the frame
Did rough slide-fit -- not even close to being finished, but slides on very tightly.

 

[sparked1]

Are you using "proper" tools or winging it? How did you do the dehorning? Looks like a great start.

 

[bluesman2a]

Abrasives are important when building a 1911. They are a majority of what you will use. I'm no expert, but some things/resources I've found (and if anybody else wants to kick-in more here, I'll try to keep a running list).

• Sand Paper -- You'll need a good selection. I would suggest you start with 220, 320, 400, and 600. You can get more, but that's a good start.
• Sanding Sticks -- I saw these on a youtube video about fitting a barrel and since I've bought them, I've used the HECK out of them. Locally you can find them at Peachtree Woodworking supply, but here's an amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/Lumberton-fin...qid=1431868840&sr=8-1&keywords=sanding+sticks
  
• "Emory boards" -- These are nice in that they fit into lots of areas, you can trim them to fit in smaller areas and they offer some degree of flexibility. http://www.amazon.com/Revell-Flexib...&qid=1431869003&sr=8-8&keywords=sanding+stick
• Files -- you'll need a lot of options here. I'm just starting out in this arena but I've found a few that are partifularly useful:
  • Small files: you'll use them a lot, they are cheap, get all the combos, you'll never know what you need.
    • http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-precision-needle-file-set-4614.html
    • http://www.harborfreight.com/needle-file-set-10-pc-69876.html
    • http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-needle-file-set-468.html
  • Larger files: you'll need larger ones, and a selection of them but I'll leave this open to somebody with more experience
  • If you order from Mcmaster-Carr early enough in the day, it will be on your doorstep by the time you get home.
    • They charge LESS for this service than Brownells for files and the like.
    • Swiss-pattern files are typically for finer work.
    • The higher the cut number, the higher the number of teeth so it's finer the lower the number the coarser/faster the cut.
    • "Pillar" files have safe edges, meaning there are no teeth so they don't cut on the sides, so these are good for stuff like barrel hoods and the like.
    • While they are not branded on McMaster's website, the files I received were all Nicholson with one particularly nice Grobet.
    • Here's a picture of the files:
  • 
    
    From McMaster's site:
    
    
    1
    [Broken External Image]:
    
    Precision File for Stainless Steel
    
    Rectangular, Finish No. 0, 6" Long
    8184A12
    
    1
    Each
    $23.34
    Each
    $23.34
    2
    [Broken External Image]:
    Rectangular Precision File
    
    Finish No. 4, 4" Long
    4251A23
    
    1
    Each
    15.90
    Each
    15.90
    3
    [Broken External Image]:
    Rectangular Precision File
    
    Finish No. 2, 4" Long
    4251A22
    
    1
    Each
    13.95
    Each
    13.95
    4
    [Broken External Image]:
    Rectangular Precision File
    
    Finish No. 0, 4" Long
    4251A19
    
    1
    Each
    13.95
    Each
    13.95
    5
    [Broken External Image]:
    Rectangular Precision File
    
    Finish No. 4, 6" Long
    4251A31
    
    1
    Each
    18.95
    Each
    18.95
    6
    [Broken External Image]:
    Rectangular Precision File
    
    Finish No. 2, 6" Long
    4251A29
    
    1
    Each
    16.35
    Each
    16.35
    
• Dremel tool -- yeah I know what everybody says about dremels and 1911 building so take this with a grain of salt, and use it SPARINGLY until you are more sure about what you're doing. It's really easy to ruin a $30+ part really fast with one.
  • GET THE FLEX SHAFT ATTACHMENT!!!! Control is paramount with this tool. This will give you more control.
  • Drum sanding attachments -- these are nice for working on parts that require radii. They are NOT for finish work. You will need to leave enough material after this in order to work out any tooling marks.
  • Polishing/felt tips -- along with compound this can put a fine sheen on a nearly finished part.
  • Polishing compounds -- I'm still working on what I want to use for compounds. Any suggestions here would be appreciated. Leaning towards Flitz or mag-wheel polish I'd seen mentioned elsewhere.
  • Sanding discs/mandrels -- these are nice for finer flat-work, I'd like to find these with some finer grits though. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MTGNKG/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1431870123&sr=1&keywords=sanding+discs
• Stones -- This is what I intend to use to finish my rails with. I saw another member here mention these so I researched and here is what I found:
  • Buy them here: https://www.borideabrasives.com/PublicStore/product/Standard-Mold-Polishing-Stone-Kits,108,285.aspx
  • If you buy the kits you can get them a lot cheaper here are the ones I ordered
  • (028976)Mold Polishing Stone Kits, AO Fine Grit $21.52 (grits included: 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200)
  • (028970)Mold Polishing Stone Kits, AO $13.78 (grits included: 150, 220, 320, 400 and 600)
    
  • Bought this tool for setting/cutting rails: http://www.evergladesammo.com/1911-frame-rail-sanding-tool.html
  • I don't have the tool yet, but should see it tomorrow, so look for a review on it.
  • It interested me because it was a way that the common man could cut rails without a lot of extra machinery, for not much money.
  • video:
• Glass Plate -- A lot of places will recommend a glass plate for a flat surface. I found this at Peachtree woodworking:
  • Link: http://www.ptreeusa.com/sharpening.htm#4162
  • I haven't used it yet, but it's the perfect setup, a 12X12 glass plate and an assortment of grits
  • Another route would be Home Depot and use one of their glass shelves like this and cut it to size:
  • Link: http://www.homedepot.com/b/Decor-Wa...t-glass+shelf?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5
• Surface-prep pads -- (scotchbright pads) -- I happened on these accidentally. I've used them extensively in fabrication in my shop, but wouldn't have thought to use them for this if I hadn't been trying to fix a filing "mistake". You can run these on a 2" die-grinder:
  • http://www.amazon.com/IIT-82070-2-I...1871401&sr=8-1&keywords=surface+prep+pad+fine
    
  • These work great at a very rough "polish", removing little to no material.
  • They are also great at breaking/rounding hard corners/edges for de-horning.

 

[bluesman2a]

This is where I will talk about tools, and/or specialty items I have used or am considering buying:

• 1911 Frame Rail Sanding/Stoning Tool: As mentioned above, I bought this tool to use with the stone/sticks. The process seems to be fairly straightforward, I'm going to give it a try and seen how it goes.
  • Link: http://www.evergladesammo.com/gunsmithing/tools/1911-frame-rail-sanding-tool.html
  • Haven't had a chance to use it, but just got the package this evening.
  • Overall tool looks nice, but there are some tooling marks in it that I will be buffing out and some edges I will be smoothing out. For $75, I would normally expect better machining than this or at least better finishing.
  • UPDATE: The SAME tool is available here for HALF the price!!! I have not tried it yet, but $35 is a HECK of a lot more palatable than $75. http://www.matrixprecisionparts.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=52
• Plunger Tube Staking Tool: I've heard that this is a useful tool and this seems to be the one everybody is suggesting.
  • Link: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...tools/plunger-tube-staking-tool-prod9489.aspx
  • Anybody have other suggestions?
• Trigger Stirrup Die: I thought this was kinda useless until I was trying to fit a trigger yesterday. It had been torqued courtesy of the USPS, and I was having a helluva time getting it squared up. I think for the price, I may invest in one of these just to have.
  • Link: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ls/1911-auto-trigger-stirrup-die-prod788.aspx
• Dyechem/Marker/Candle: One of the things that is HUGE with fitting a 1911 is fitment and allowing things to slide freely. In order to do that, you are doing a lot of sanding/polishing with progressively finer grits of sandpaper. So what you will do is mark the part, fit it up, see where it's hitting, remove it polish/sand and repeat until you have a great fit.
  • Thus far I have gotten by with just using a sharpie/marker.
  • Dyechem is another option: http://www.amazon.com/Dykem-80300-S...e=UTF8&qid=1431872851&sr=8-1&keywords=dyechem
  • I've also heard candle-soot is good for those points where you need a very fine indicator.
• Punches: These are standard for most stuff.
  • Link: http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engin...qid=1431873120&sr=8-5&keywords=roll+punch+set
• Hammer: Sometimes you need to give it a little LOVE, but you don't want to leave any marks (that's what SHE said too).
  • Link: http://www.amazon.com/Gunsmithing-H...3303&sr=8-3&keywords=gunsmithing+tools+hammer
• Dental tools/nose-pickers: I use these for all manner of stuff, even if it's just scratching my brain.
  • Link: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pick-set-93514.html
• Screw Drivers: You can use most any driver set, but I recently ponied up for some real smith tools, and I like them.
  • Link: http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Pi...=1431873734&sr=8-1&keywords=gunsmithing+tools
• Small Vises: holding stuff can be a PITA while you try to work on it. I happened on these not long ago. The quality is about what you would expect in a cheap chinese vise, but it gets the job done with little parts without maring them. I spent a little time and cleaned mine up a little and they are turning out quite nicely.
  • Link: http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Swivel-Bench-Jewelers-Hobby/dp/B0017QFO0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1431873956&sr=8-1&keywords=jeweler's+vise
  • Link: http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Mini-Table-Jewelers-Clamp/dp/B000RAZT1I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1431873956&sr=8-2&keywords=jeweler's+vise
  • I'd like to find something better on this front, but not sure where to start looking.
  • Recent find: the Stanley 83-069M Maxsteel Multi-Angle Base Vise. This thing is AWESOME. it's a small vice that comes with soft jaws that will let you mount it in just about any orientation in 2 axes. I'd highly recommend one if you don't already have something to hold small parts. It can clamp onto the edge of about any surface. It's also not terribly expensive. (I will also update the original tools section back on page 1).
    • While you cannot HANG from the gun while it is in this vice, it is still PLENTY sturdy enough to hold the work piece while you are filing, sanding, or otherwise working it.
    • Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UOJF66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    • Pictures:
    • 
      
      
• Armorer's blocks: ??? I've seen these a lot, but are they worth it? If so which ones? What is the utility?

So what other specialty tools am I missing that are useful?

 

[bluesman2a]

Are you using "proper" tools or winging it? How did you do the dehorning? Looks like a great start.

It's a bit of a mixed bag really. I started out wanting to use this project to learn how to use my mill and start machining, but thanks to markj i started looking at this more as a hand tool project. I will put up a post later, discussing what I've done for each step with some pics.

As for de-horning interesting story: I made some mistakes with a file and left some deep tool marks on the frame I was trying to get rid of. I do a lot of metal fabrication for Jeeps so I have a lot of tools that are focused there. Once I had the tool marks fairly well buffed out, I hit the frame with a surface prep disc (think scotchbright pad) on a die grinder. This gave a nice base polish to the frame, broke the hard lines, and softened things up nicely. The appearance is like a "melt" but less aggressive. I did the smaller areas with a dremel and polishing compound

 

[markj]

Looks good so far.. that's going to be one heck of a .22
These new conversions based on the Bob Marvel design are some of the most accurate .22s (or pistols of any caliber). They dominate the line at most Bullseye matches these days. You have to spend pretty big money on a fancy "euro" target pistol to beat them.

 

[vern1915]

In for info.

 

[wwboater]

Here is the 2011 I made awile back..... One of my favorite pistols to shoot....

 

[Radoslaw murawski]

What's the total cost of all parts there bluesman2a I am thinking of building one, I recently sold a ss 1911 and I got sellers remorse haha I want another one and they aren't cheap.