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A Cowboy Coach

Sharps40

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While I finish up the Classy Coach, time to look over what might become a Cowboy Coach.

A rattle trap of a Stevens 5100 12g. Literally, rattles!

It comes disassembled for a reason.

i.imgur.com_1wcvFVq.jpg


A very early gun, the forend wood should be repairable, one small crack.....the buttstock has old putty repairs, missing wood and a long central crack, likely from some one falling across or using the gun as a pry bar.

i.imgur.com_yPeQbgr.jpg


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Action was long ago reblued purple. We'll fix that, rust black. The safety detent is missing in action. The top snap spring is long gone. The right firing pin is so dirty it sticks. But, the essential functions are there and I believe it'll be a fully functional action with new springs, inspection and cleaning.

i.imgur.com_SQXsajq.jpg


A small crack in the action.....not worth welding. Probably caused by the trauma that broke the buttstock. I'll stop drill it and silver solder the remainder....should be right as rain....its a non critical area and less than one third of the width of the lower tang is penetrated by the crack.

i.imgur.com_yLlvZhh.jpg


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The bores are sewer pipe dirty. (But upon cleaning, lovely and essentially pit free. They'll need polish inside but no dents, no rust and came out bright and excellent with a bore snake only)

i.imgur.com_xNKMklB.jpg


After the old reblued, someone tried to drive out the hinge pin since this one is loosie goosie. It didn't work, not because they punched the wrong side. but because these guns have a pin to be drilled out before you drive out the hinge pin. I'll fix it, tight like new.

i.imgur.com_FCJwj1u.jpg


Barrels shortened to 18.5" before final finishing to length. A snap on light pipe sight will sit behind a traditional brass bead later.

i.imgur.com_uN8srFl.jpg


Should be slick for Cowboy Shoots or Truck or just a handy Tractor Cannon around the farm. New buttstock will be needed. Springs and bead are in bound. I'll make the hinge pin and we'll fix anything in the action that's worn out. Barrels will be browned. Action Rust Blackened.

i.imgur.com_auRyr62.jpg
 
This is a good teaching project. Unless I am mistaken and its truely a dog, all the repairs will be home amateur handwork somewhat as follows

Shorten barrels and fill gap

Long forcing cone

Polish bores, chambers

Fix safety

Put barrels back on face

Fix trigger guard

Replace springs

Fix small crack in tang

Fix crack in forend

Refinish forend

Replace buttstock

Refinish buttstock as needed to match forend finish

Add bead and fiberoptic sight

Brown or blacken barrels

Brown or blacken action

Add sling swivel mounts

Shoot
 
Seeing what we have to work with.

A double thickness of paper shim removes all the slop joining the barrels to action. Will probably install a new hinge pin.

i.imgur.com_lbuUtbh.jpg


Once joined, the bite needs work, the top snap is at 7 oclock, 5 or 6 will be better.

i.imgur.com_zfTCMuh.jpg


The locking lug has been badly abused in the past in an attempt to tighten the action without replacing the very loose hinge pin (rejoining the barrels) first. With luck, its repairable.

i.imgur.com_BpOlqGd.jpg
 
This one needs a bit of everything so might as well see if the barrels can be rejoined and the bite tightened before spending any more money or effort.

For starters, the pin in the knee may touch the hinge pin or may pin the hinge pin. Kind of like the firing pin bushing cross pin on the ruger blackhawks, it ain't always pinned cause it ain't always drilled right or even all the way..... But since this one has marks on the hinge pin, I'll drill it out in case its actually holding the hinge pin in place.

i.imgur.com_SeB9xlc.jpg


Usually, the hinge pins come out left to right, this one moved better and easier right to left. It is not a tapered hinge pin, in this instance and mikes about .310" diameter.

i.imgur.com_zUYfFFL.jpg


Two sheets of paper shim removed most of the looseness, that's about 7 to 10 thou of shim.....I slowly spin a spud by hand in the hinge pin hole. The spud is tapered. (Don't use power, if the lap sticks, it'll break or ye'll get yer hands caught in flying parts.....) Take your time, lap the hole smooth and my taper is about 10 thousands.....I made the lap on the drill press. The grit is 220 in oil. I am opening up one side just enough to take a 21/64" drill.

i.imgur.com_jqpBTYo.jpg


Just to be sure, I turned out a .318 hinge pin from a grade 5 bolt, (great hinge material, bolts.) and it took out much of the side to side play but not enough. So, I ground the point off the 21/64 drill, jigged up the action and at 250 rpm and durn carefully, drilled the hinge pin hole in the action to 21/64. (The barrels were NOT installed during the drilling. I'll lap them and the forend in later.)

i.imgur.com_VChzfwO.jpg


With the drill bit reversed in the hinge hole, the barrel is tried.....snug. They rejoin nicely and firmly with no side to side play. However, I'll still have to try to fix the bite of the top snap. Joining the barrels won't always tighten the bite, specially as bad as this one is worn.

i.imgur.com_3M05my4.jpg


At this point, the action has to be tapped shut with the handle of a screwdriver....but it does close. Also, as you can see, the forend does not fully snap to the barrel. But better tight than loose and so, I'll be making up a 21/64" hinge pin for the action and then doing some disassembly to see if I need to repair the lug on the barrels, the top snap or both in order to get a good bite and a 5 or 6 oclock position of the top snap. So far, so good and its not a parts gun yet.

i.imgur.com_7pHnLa4.jpg
 
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