Ok..I have a VERY nice all numbers match down to the magazine shortened original Enfield aka Jungle Carbine. It does in fact group all over with different bullet weights and styles..do I mess with it to shoot or leave it in the safe for what it historically adds? I see I can add shims and considering it or trying to bed the stock but I hate to change the original rifle.
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I think shims are reasonable as they don't cause any permanent damage but to each their own.
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I thought it had been fairly well established wandering zero wasn't real,or was grossly exaggerated. Any gun will shift POI with different cartridge loads
Yes this is true..but all loads are way off the mark by 4 to 6 inches at 25 to 50 yards..plus it is a known problem with these guns due the cuts used to lighten the weapon and cut it down..some are worse than others and some quite accurate. Cold barrel not terrible about 2.5..after 3 shots anyone's guess on paper but way off with Caldwell .
I would go with the glass bedding. If it's done right no one will ever know without taking the barrel off
I bought my Dad one many years ago and it "keyholes" (bullet tumbles and hits the target sideways) every type of ammo we shoot through it. I'm guessing when they cut the barrel and added the flash hider it screwed up the crown. It was never meant to be a tack driver but it would leave a nasty entrance wound and do some serious damage inside.
WLhunter, I can give you a few tips I've picked up over my years gun smithing.... first there's probably more fake number 5 mark 1 than real ones out there. make sure the rear sight is proper, next check the flash hider with a magnet..... when the original steel flash hiders ran out the fakers used one's made of die cast zinc. if all is right and good then look at the butt stock.... a loose butt stock will throw the shots all over the target. it doesn't have to be flopping around to greatly effect accuracy..... ANY MOVEMENT does it. barrel and action moves around in the short dwell time the bullet is still in the barrel. pull the butt stock and glass bed the stock spud that fits into the action socket.... it only takes a tiny amount of bedding compound and no one will ever risk pulling a tight butt stock if they don't have to. more than likely this will fix much of your problem.... some guys mentioned the crown, this is rather complicated because of that flash hider. any clip-on , pinned-on or clamp-on flash hider causes all sorts of accuracy problems. only proper alined and solidly mounted ones have no effect..... sure not the case with the #5 mark 1.... the thing is that flash hider is half the value of the gun so you don't want to risk damage to it. impossible to replace besides taking it off and re-crowning the barrel may make the flash hider loose or looser than it is and the problem can progress. if you have to take it off and re-crown then I'd suggest a little glass bedding... just a drop to make sure the stupid thing won't move. after a bit over 45 years of gun smithing and 35 of that as a gun maker you learn a few little tricks lol.
wolfpenhiker,
very un-likely your problem is the crown causing that amount of keyholing. slug the barrel..... my bet is that it's either worn or over size..... not uncommon in war produced arms.
best of luck
wolfpenhiker,
very un-likely your problem is the crown causing that amount of keyholing. slug the barrel..... my bet is that it's either worn or over size..... not uncommon in war produced arms.
best of luck
All good to know..have seen the worn out bores and keyhole issue. This one is pristine on the rifling and hits straight in the target.(as long as you don't mind 6 inch groups) And I know the history on this gun so that is why I am hesitant to alter it much if any. The fellow that gave it to me has been passed on many years.
