1860 Army Blackhawk
- Thread starter Sharps40
- Start date
There is no simple living to be made in gunsmithing for the average fella. The nitches are already filled by gents like turnbull and bowen commanding prices that would take food off the average familymans table. (That's why there are factory "loaded" guns, regular fellas want em and only the factory can push em out with the wizbang doodads at a price more folks can afford....but there will always be nitches for the hand crafted stuff too.)
The rest of the smiths struggle less with craft and creativity and more with price vs number of jobs vs overhead vs time, etc to keep the lights on. I often thought of opening a bluing shop but even at that with access to borrowed equipment (so no overhead) I found folks want it so cheep that a minimum wage job could often pay better....we certainty don't value the time/skills at the same rate.
So, now I does it for fun and one project leads to the next and the profit is a feeling of satisfaction rather than a hard-fought paper bill. And I can do what ever I want during that creative process since there is nobody on the other end to like or dislike it, pay or not pay for it or say I want this, delete that, etc....and that my friends is a powerful incentive....No mind but my own, pure craft.
The rest of the smiths struggle less with craft and creativity and more with price vs number of jobs vs overhead vs time, etc to keep the lights on. I often thought of opening a bluing shop but even at that with access to borrowed equipment (so no overhead) I found folks want it so cheep that a minimum wage job could often pay better....we certainty don't value the time/skills at the same rate.
So, now I does it for fun and one project leads to the next and the profit is a feeling of satisfaction rather than a hard-fought paper bill. And I can do what ever I want during that creative process since there is nobody on the other end to like or dislike it, pay or not pay for it or say I want this, delete that, etc....and that my friends is a powerful incentive....No mind but my own, pure craft.
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I was asked to explain the purpose of the black powder/colt style cylinder chamfer I put on this cylinder and the Blackhawk Lightning. My response is as follows.....
Its up to an expensive custom touch that if you can say it does anything of value, it nominally accomplishes the following three things....
1. may mimic the look of a Colt cylinder
2. may ease transition into a tight leather holster
3. may empty yer wallet against more useful customization (sights, grips, trigger job, etc.) if you pay to have it done
Its up to an expensive custom touch that if you can say it does anything of value, it nominally accomplishes the following three things....
1. may mimic the look of a Colt cylinder
2. may ease transition into a tight leather holster
3. may empty yer wallet against more useful customization (sights, grips, trigger job, etc.) if you pay to have it done
Time for the big reveal and the photos that inspire this project. Though there is no hard and fast build data for an 1860 Army Colt grip on a Ruger Blackhawk....here are the inspirational photographs lifted from the web.
Up first is the Uberti 2 piece grip frame set up for coiled main spring. Missing here is grip frame mounted provision for trigger return spring. However, the foot of the main spring is robust if not allowing for easy compression and handling of the mainspring assembly out of the frame.
And here, from Bowen naturally, the Keith #5 grip assembly for the Blackhawk. Though a bit larger than the 1860 Army Colt, a well thought out design, both foot, easily removed mainspring and provision for the new model trigger return spring.
Some study and try fit time will be requried before determining whether to use one or the other methods or some hybred of the two (and whether to use one system for the mainspring and reverting the 1860 Army Colt grip frame to Old Model Blackhawk pin/plunger trigger return mounted low and behind the trigger in a hole or mounting block)
Up first is the Uberti 2 piece grip frame set up for coiled main spring. Missing here is grip frame mounted provision for trigger return spring. However, the foot of the main spring is robust if not allowing for easy compression and handling of the mainspring assembly out of the frame.
And here, from Bowen naturally, the Keith #5 grip assembly for the Blackhawk. Though a bit larger than the 1860 Army Colt, a well thought out design, both foot, easily removed mainspring and provision for the new model trigger return spring.
Some study and try fit time will be requried before determining whether to use one or the other methods or some hybred of the two (and whether to use one system for the mainspring and reverting the 1860 Army Colt grip frame to Old Model Blackhawk pin/plunger trigger return mounted low and behind the trigger in a hole or mounting block)
Since I'm sure now this will be Dads for Christmas, likely early during hunting season...Went ahead and ordered everything for the front end. This will get the overall picture complete while I vet out the possible grip frames.
Williams giblock for dovetails. Allows Dovetailing the barrel for the frontsight and options to go with ramp and dovetail beads or a simple dovetail sight like the lightning project.
Williams shorty ramp, steel, 9/32" high.
Williams brass 3/32" bead, .250" high.
Story blued steel Birds Head (looks like a bulls eye) ejector rod.
Story blued steel Ejector rod housing.
I know I said I prolly wouldn't need it but it'll sure look fine....stainless steel Ruger Bisley Hammer.
Dayum....gonna be a nice gun....
Williams giblock for dovetails. Allows Dovetailing the barrel for the frontsight and options to go with ramp and dovetail beads or a simple dovetail sight like the lightning project.
Williams shorty ramp, steel, 9/32" high.
Williams brass 3/32" bead, .250" high.
Story blued steel Birds Head (looks like a bulls eye) ejector rod.
Story blued steel Ejector rod housing.
I know I said I prolly wouldn't need it but it'll sure look fine....stainless steel Ruger Bisley Hammer.
Dayum....gonna be a nice gun....
Tweaking and tuning on the Blackhawk last evening and found out the rear sight adjustment screw is a bit long. When ya run the sight all the way to the bottom, it binds on the back of the cylinder. A kiss from a file fixed it for good...so later there won't be a sticky cylinder or worse, ugly mark in fresh bluing and the rear sight will go fully up and down with out worries.
Thanks again to UPS, parts will be delayed another day or two since they inventively drop small packages off at USPS for extra handling and delayed delivery.
So, to the grip, specifically, making some room for the mainspring to function fully and without bind.
The inner loop is reground (between the black hash marks) slightly flatter, much like the Keith #5 grip frame. Still leaves about twice the metal as the rear loop so plenty strong....no worries.
Looking inside the lower loop of the grip, additional clearance for the spring is available when a concave groove is ground and this also leaves as much metal in the grip as possible for strength. I think its more than adequately strong and will last the long haul.
Looking at the top of the outer loop, a very slight bevel is filed in to allow the mainspring strut to swing in its arc unbound no matter where the foot of the mainspring is positioned. I have a bisley hammer on the way and given I'll probably fit the grip frame to the larger base of the bisley hammer, this bevel may be unnecessarily....i.e. disappear in the fitting of the grip loop to the fat bottomed bisley hammer.
Another view of the concave clearance channel ground into the lower grip loop....the old flat mainspring screw hole at the bottom should make a fine spot to mount a z-bar for the mainspring to push against. (For now, I'll probably make up an oak block to start checking function and range of compression then convert to a steel z-bar using the wood block as template.)
I have enough space now to run the mainspring rather close to the lower loop or anywhere in between. I may well just go with two piece grips as it'll be about the easiest for installing the new model trigger return spring and allow positioning the foot of the mainspring more centered in the grip. Photos below show the compressed mainspring assembly wagged into place hammer back and hammer forward.
So, to the grip, specifically, making some room for the mainspring to function fully and without bind.
The inner loop is reground (between the black hash marks) slightly flatter, much like the Keith #5 grip frame. Still leaves about twice the metal as the rear loop so plenty strong....no worries.
Looking inside the lower loop of the grip, additional clearance for the spring is available when a concave groove is ground and this also leaves as much metal in the grip as possible for strength. I think its more than adequately strong and will last the long haul.
Looking at the top of the outer loop, a very slight bevel is filed in to allow the mainspring strut to swing in its arc unbound no matter where the foot of the mainspring is positioned. I have a bisley hammer on the way and given I'll probably fit the grip frame to the larger base of the bisley hammer, this bevel may be unnecessarily....i.e. disappear in the fitting of the grip loop to the fat bottomed bisley hammer.
Another view of the concave clearance channel ground into the lower grip loop....the old flat mainspring screw hole at the bottom should make a fine spot to mount a z-bar for the mainspring to push against. (For now, I'll probably make up an oak block to start checking function and range of compression then convert to a steel z-bar using the wood block as template.)
I have enough space now to run the mainspring rather close to the lower loop or anywhere in between. I may well just go with two piece grips as it'll be about the easiest for installing the new model trigger return spring and allow positioning the foot of the mainspring more centered in the grip. Photos below show the compressed mainspring assembly wagged into place hammer back and hammer forward.
The Ruger banner, bane of the New Models. Full instructions on being careful. It goes all the way out to the newly cut end.....5.1" inches of unnecessary roll mark.
Dad and I been around a good bit.....we are not likely to need the caution to be careful or write Ruger in CT for a copy of the instruction manual.....so....
A few minutes work draw and cross filing with a single cut basterd file (note its lightly filed/blended nearly to the frame and all the way to the muzzle) and though it'll need some good polish work later.....ugly Ruger Banner is gone and the gun will look all the better for it later. Its a few thousands removed, like draw filing out pits. Some bootstrapping with sandpaper later will blend the circumference and finish the entire barrel nicely for bluing.....for now.....still waitin for parts so I can dovetail the barrel and install gib lock for the ramp or a tall dovetail front sight.
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Dad and I been around a good bit.....we are not likely to need the caution to be careful or write Ruger in CT for a copy of the instruction manual.....so....
A few minutes work draw and cross filing with a single cut basterd file (note its lightly filed/blended nearly to the frame and all the way to the muzzle) and though it'll need some good polish work later.....ugly Ruger Banner is gone and the gun will look all the better for it later. Its a few thousands removed, like draw filing out pits. Some bootstrapping with sandpaper later will blend the circumference and finish the entire barrel nicely for bluing.....for now.....still waitin for parts so I can dovetail the barrel and install gib lock for the ramp or a tall dovetail front sight.
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Good sharp files, pushed and not pulled leave little work for sanding and polishing. A few minutes bootstrap with 120g to blend the barrel and initial polish out the age marks all around...
and, the Former Ruger Banner side looks clean and fine.
The ejector side looks pretty good too. Good threads in the barrel and the ejector housing screw so no repairs to do there....a dollop of blue locktite will be all it needs at final reassembly now that the cylinder pin can be removed without having to entirely remove the ejector rod and housing assembly.
Initial back bevel is started at the frame to get rid of that ugly Bull Nose over the barrel. This can be left sloped back or under cut slightly to look a bit more like a Smith and Wesson frame.
Backing out just a bit to look at the nose job.....coming together a bit at a time....once the ears are off and the lengthwise edges broken/softened, I think it'll pull together nicely.
and, the Former Ruger Banner side looks clean and fine.
The ejector side looks pretty good too. Good threads in the barrel and the ejector housing screw so no repairs to do there....a dollop of blue locktite will be all it needs at final reassembly now that the cylinder pin can be removed without having to entirely remove the ejector rod and housing assembly.
Initial back bevel is started at the frame to get rid of that ugly Bull Nose over the barrel. This can be left sloped back or under cut slightly to look a bit more like a Smith and Wesson frame.
Backing out just a bit to look at the nose job.....coming together a bit at a time....once the ears are off and the lengthwise edges broken/softened, I think it'll pull together nicely.
