Want to be Robin Hood.

[unclear.six]

OK guys. I could use a good bit of help if anyone can.

I know as much about archery as a wallstreet exec knows about pig farmin' (besides that 4H long bow course I took when I was 10, Robin Hood, Braveheart, 300... haha). I have been thinking for awhile now about getting into bow hunting and maybe just doing that all the way through to the end of the year (want to try something new).

Can someone help me figure out what I need to get? Like what type of bow...etc. Like I said I literally know nothing about it, much less using it as a hunting tool. Is this something I should be trying to attempt with no experience? Is it apples and oranges to hunting with a rifle (besides the obvious distance factor...etc.)

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Rick Terscale]

Everybody's a novice at some point and as long as you're an extra patient hunter, archery may be right for you. For a starter hunting bow, stay away from longbows and re-curves. You're definitely going to want a compound type bow. A compound bow gives the best bang for the buck as far as energy spent to energy used. Modern compound bows can have an extremely high "let off", which means that if you're shooting a 100lb [for example] draw weight bow that has an 80% let off, you're only physically holding 20lbs at full draw. That allows you to comfortably concentrate on the shot rather than struggle to hold the string back. Next thing to consider would be your arrow rest. I have always liked the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) method when it came to archery. A simple flipper rest was all that I used, but the whisker biscuit type rests that are used now are much better, as they hold your arrow on the rest even when the bow is tilted. A mechanical release is highly recommended as well, as this will give you a consistent "release" of the string as opposed to fingers.

OK, now that you have a compound bow that you can draw and release, you're going to need arrows and heads. Carbon arrows are probably the most popular arrows used in modern archery, but aluminum arrows will git er done, too. The biggest thing to consider is length and weight of the arrow and head combination. You want the arrow to match up well with your draw weight and length. A heavier arrow/head combo will put more kinetic on your target ,but will not shoot as flat as a lighter combo. You will want something that meets in the middle. I have always shot full length heavy arrows, it's just what I shot well and matched my rig. My friends used to call them "tent poles" as they all shot with over draws so they could shoot shorter arrows.

Which brings us to sights. The easiest sight to use IMO, is a simple peep and pin sight combo. The pins are used like the dots in a mil-dot scope. You sight each pin in just like a scope. The top pin will be your closer range all the way up/down to your bottom pin for your furthest shot. Of course it will all be up to your preference. I personally used a crosshair sight that I never moved. I would never take a shot at a deer over 30 yards [personal limit], and I could shoot dead on out to 30yards with out using any other pins. I would just compensate up or down depending on range, but that is what I practiced for. A lot of guys I knew would even shoot instinctively without aid of any sights.

Nock point and release points round out the basics. Again just as an example. I used an upper and lower nock point which was two buttons on the string and the arrow nock would fit between the two. I then had a loop tied to the string at spots above and below the buttons to use as a release point. looked about like this. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...LDA&esq=2&page=3&ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:14,s:36

I highly recommend letting a tech set up your bow for you initially.

This a very generic post about archery and there are so many more things to cover, but these are the bare minimum IMO to start slinging some arrows. I'm sure we can now answer any specific questions you may have. Hopefully this will get the ball rolling.

 

[Rick Terscale]

Don't let the latest, greatest, fastest, coolest looking manly man bows lure you in unless you can afford it or are willing to spend the dough. Or if you're not sure you're going to stick with it. As guys we have all made that mistake. You can have a midrange to lower end bow with an experienced shooter shoot circles around a novice with the most expensive bow on the market. As to which brand and model, well, that's going to be up to you entirely.

Here's an excellent example of a solid mid range bow...... http://www.gandermountain.com/modpe...inger_NI_Compound_Bow&aID=503AA1&merchID=4006

That type of bow is something that you wouldn't out grow and would service your needs for years. If it turns out that you're really into it, then you could upgrade to one of the more expensive bows.

 

[Rick Terscale]

As far as a comparison to rifle hunting, it's more like a Fuji apple compared to a Macintosh apple. They're both apples, but there's a different texture and flavor with each. With archery you have a smaller margin of error as far as prep goes. Scouting for archery stand placement is much more complicated. You use the same techniques, you just have to be even more aware of scent, wind direction etc. Decisions like whether to stand up more often due to the noise made rising to a standing position will narrow your stand choices. Camo choice is more important, too. The better your camo matches your surroundings the better. Also, you'll probably want to camo up head to toe.

 

[Sagan]

Alternatively, I will trade you my bear grizzly II (needs a new string) for just about anything. Then you don't have to spend any money and I don't have to look at a bow that I won't shoot anymore. It's nowhere near as fancy as some of the newer compound bows, but it still does its job.

 

[Rick Terscale]

Set a max range that you will comfortably shoot game at and practice everything in between up to your max range until it's instinct. And do NOT waiver from that range due to buck fever. Mark yardage spots around your stands with colored tacks, ribbon or anything fairly visible. Remember to practice from an elevated stand, too, if that's what you're using, from you're actual stand if possible. I have actually shot my bow at a pine cone or something on the ground when I first got into my stand during a hunt just for confidence. Height can affect your point of impact. I have found that bending at the waist rather that just angling the bow with your arms has been compensation enough.

 

[Rick Terscale]

Alternatively, I will trade you my bear grizzly II (needs a new string) for just about anything. Then you don't have to spend any money and I don't have to look at a bow that I won't shoot anymore. It's nowhere near as fancy as some of the newer compound bows, but it still does its job.

Bingo!

 

[Tonyf6188]

Don't let the latest, greatest, fastest, coolest looking manly man bows lure you in unless you can afford it or are willing to spend the dough. Or if you're not sure you're going to stick with it. As guys we have all made that mistake. You can have a midrange to lower end bow with an experienced shooter shoot circles around a novice with the most expensive bow on the market. As to which brand and model, well, that's going to be up to you entirely.

Here's an excellent example of a solid mid range bow...... http://www.gandermountain.com/modpe...inger_NI_Compound_Bow&aID=503AA1&merchID=4006

That type of bow is something that you wouldn't out grow and would service your needs for years. If it turns out that you're really into it, then you could upgrade to one of the more expensive bows.

This is the best advice that could be given. Almost all the major brands are good. Get what feels good to YOU.

 

[unclear.six]

Thanks for all the advice guys! I will start giving it a look. That's nice of you Sagan. So yours is a re-curve bow? What would your trade value be?

 

[Sagan]

No, it is a compound bow. I think it has a draw up to 90 lbs. Really don't know its value. Think I had it on here for something like 40 or 45; but like I said, I would trade it for just about anything. I don't think my elbow will be up for archery in the near future, so i am pretty wide open.

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