I’m looking at changing the flash hider on a Geissele URGI. It has the Surefire 4 prong flash hider on it now, which from my understanding is a hard peice to come by. I’m planning to change it to one of the dead air brakes or flash hider for my Sandman S. Is there anyone local anyone would recommend? I’ve already talked to Adco and they said they can’t save the current flash hider and it would be destroyed but could do it no problem. I hate to mess the Surefire up, but what do you do. I thought about selling the upper and starting over but I like it to much.
Unpinning and repinning an upper
- Thread starter jwill130
- Start date
I have removed and replaced a flash hider myself without totally buffering them up.
One was a USGI and the second was a AAC multi-tooth (51?)
The USGI wasn’t a hard pin to drill out, and didn’t damage the barrel or flash hider.
The AAC ended up having a larger hole in the flash hider as the pin must’ve been a harder metal or I wasn’t dead on straight. The barrel was ok and I was able to repin it with a new brake.
I used a home drill press and a good bit. Is the bit does t walk you should be good. I taped the drill bit at close to max depth and never got into the barrel. Does that make sense?
I can see why they won’t guarantee saving the surefire. It may end up with a big hole, but that can be welded.
Best of luck.
One was a USGI and the second was a AAC multi-tooth (51?)
The USGI wasn’t a hard pin to drill out, and didn’t damage the barrel or flash hider.
The AAC ended up having a larger hole in the flash hider as the pin must’ve been a harder metal or I wasn’t dead on straight. The barrel was ok and I was able to repin it with a new brake.
I used a home drill press and a good bit. Is the bit does t walk you should be good. I taped the drill bit at close to max depth and never got into the barrel. Does that make sense?
I can see why they won’t guarantee saving the surefire. It may end up with a big hole, but that can be welded.
Best of luck.
If that's the flash hider I'm thinking of, it's about a $3-$400 piece.
I’m pretty sure it is. From my understanding it’s not available to the civilian market but it comes on the Geissele URGI. That’s why I’m hesitant about doing this. I don’t want to mess it up but it sounds like that’s a chance.
A lot of this will depend on the person that welded the original pin in.
I have done a couple and I try to weld just a small cap on the hole and
not weld to the actual pin. This makes it so just grinding off the weld will
release the pin and the muzzle devise.
The only way to know for sure is to hit it with a file or grinder.
Have seen some welds go deep and have to remove a deep amount of metal.
Good luck. Worst case is a deep hole and need a man that is good with a TIG.
Mike
I have done a couple and I try to weld just a small cap on the hole and
not weld to the actual pin. This makes it so just grinding off the weld will
release the pin and the muzzle devise.
The only way to know for sure is to hit it with a file or grinder.
Have seen some welds go deep and have to remove a deep amount of metal.
Good luck. Worst case is a deep hole and need a man that is good with a TIG.
Mike
I had my first done by Dobbs and wasn’t particularly thrilled with the way it came out, luckily we’ve bought new machinery at work. Last couple times I’ve done it, I cut off the tip of a hardened punch about 1/8” out of the hole and used the TIG to melt just the protrusion flush. Rock solid and I’ve changed one and it was fairly easy to grind down just that small area with a Dremel to release the remainder of the pin. Have you called Geissele and asked how they do their uppers? May shed some light on how to proceed.
You could just mount it in a mill and drill/mill it out.. I did that on an upper I have.
