Thanks for the tip. Just ordered one
Trail Boss Axe $23
- Thread starter nicaburns
- Start date
It's really easy to return stuff to Amazon if you get a bad one. That's what I'm counting on.
Ah screw it, pulled the trigger (swung the axe?). $20, need one around the house anyways.
I looked at this one exactly a year ago when I needed a good wedging axe. Ended up getting a 2-1/2 pounder from Walmart. Im not passing up this one at this price though. A man cant have too many axes.
One of the reviews that stood out from the rest that addressed the others on cracked handles. Thought I'd pass it along here.
" I see several reviews where people have had damaged or broken handles after only a few uses. That is entirely the fault of the user. This tool, or any other hand tool like it, which has a hickory handle requires you to prep it before using it. You have to remove the varnish (not sure why factories still add this stuff-maybe for aesthetics in the store). I used some #3 steel wool. Then I sanded the handle with 100 grit and then 130 grit. After that you have to put boiled linseed oil all over the handle. The wood will soak up the oil. Apply boiled linseed oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year. Then just apply once a year. Also, the blade doesn't arrive sharp so you'll need to sharpen it. Use a metal file, then a Lansky sharpening puck. Plenty of videos online to describe all of this.
If you have a problem with doing this prep work, then you shouldn't buy anything with a wooden handle like this. The isn't exclusive to this axe. You need to do this will all of your tools if you want them to last. People have broken handles b/c the wood is dry and become fragile."
" I see several reviews where people have had damaged or broken handles after only a few uses. That is entirely the fault of the user. This tool, or any other hand tool like it, which has a hickory handle requires you to prep it before using it. You have to remove the varnish (not sure why factories still add this stuff-maybe for aesthetics in the store). I used some #3 steel wool. Then I sanded the handle with 100 grit and then 130 grit. After that you have to put boiled linseed oil all over the handle. The wood will soak up the oil. Apply boiled linseed oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year. Then just apply once a year. Also, the blade doesn't arrive sharp so you'll need to sharpen it. Use a metal file, then a Lansky sharpening puck. Plenty of videos online to describe all of this.
If you have a problem with doing this prep work, then you shouldn't buy anything with a wooden handle like this. The isn't exclusive to this axe. You need to do this will all of your tools if you want them to last. People have broken handles b/c the wood is dry and become fragile."
Truth... varnish is kinda like “axe cosmoline”... ya gotta get it off, and use a legitimate axe finish before you use it. (Varnish is also the quickest way to get a blister from a wood handle!)
Because I blacksmith, I use the same mixture on all axe and hammer handles. 1:1:1 mix of boiled linseed oil, beeswax, and turpentine. Works great on handles, and the steel to keep it preserved
Because I blacksmith, I use the same mixture on all axe and hammer handles. 1:1:1 mix of boiled linseed oil, beeswax, and turpentine. Works great on handles, and the steel to keep it preserved
