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Rimfire suppressor cleaning

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I think it’s time to buy a 5.7 to “shoot out” the lead build up. Only half joking as I’ve tried soda blasting, tumble, pre treat and all methods still leave me thinking there has to be a better way. Not gonna do the dip as I don’t want to deal with the disposal.

I also emailed silencerco to find out if they would clean them for me. Pretty much thinking I’m done trying and will simply shoot them till they double in weight then use them as paper weights.
 
I let my DA Mask get pretty filthy before my first run at cleaning it (~2,500 rounds). The baffle stack came out of the main tube surprisingly easy. It took me an hour or so to get all of the baffles popped apart by tapping them with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. I soaked them in G96 and left them alone for 3 days. About an hour with a bronze brush got them back to about 90% clean and I let it ride. Some of that crud wasn't budging.

I still have the magic ingredients to whip up "The DIP" but like you, I didn't feel like handling the disposal of the byproduct.

Before ever putting the first round through my Mask, I did coat all of the baffles and interior of the main tube with G96. I can't say how much that contributed to my ease of cleaning the first time through, but it certainly didn't hurt.

Rimfire cans are destined to be funky mongrels.
 
I use a sonic cleaner. Several cans got to where they were way louder than they used to be, so in the basket they went.
Came apart fine, baffle stack went in still together, came apart in the basket. 5 or so 45 min sessions got them pretty clean, brushed the rest, still discolored.

Made sure to lube it all back up, the Aluminum can lost some paint on the outside, so a little rattle can love had it looking new.

Sound levels back to what I remember.
 
I use a dental pick on the baffles in my Spectre2 to get most of the lead "C" off the baffles. Scrub them down with #9, and then either use a lead free cloth or the Magic cleaning wipes that smell like coconut to finish then up. I use a 10ga bore snake on the tubes. Lead and carbon will take some time to get off especially if you have an integral.
 
Tell me about this G96 please.
Just a regular ol' gun oil that I was turned onto by a Dan Wesson purchase years back. I followed their recommendation of lubing with FP-10 (newest iteration is WeaponShield) and using G96 as an "everything else that's not a friction point on the gun" oil. I've found that it does a bangin' job at cleaning a bore and carbon fouling has a serious aversion to sticking to it. I can run my G96-coated guns until they're filthy and it doesn't take much more than a quick wipe with paper towels and a microfiber to get them squeaky clean again.

I figured there'd be no harm in soaking the baffles of my Mask with it for a bit and then wiping away the excess before reassembly. Seems to have done at least a half decent job at simplifying cleanup.

G96 Gun Oil.jpg
 
Another plus is that G96 and FP-10 have a faint cinnamon smell to them, so it smells like someone is baking up a storm when I'm cleaning after a range trip. My wife is far less hostile than when I crack open Hoppes. My safe smells like fresh cookies too. Win win win haha
 
I coat my baffles with silicone grease Molykote 111 , not oil. It leaves a thicker barrier and the majority of the nastiness wipes off with paper towels. I use a HF tumbler with SS pins to get really clean.
 
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