Refinishing an old S&W 39-2

lftd&pwrstrok'n

lftd&pwrstrok'n

Default rank 5000+ posts Lifetime Supporter
Sith Dark Lord
247   0
Joined
Dec 31, 2010
Messages
6,720
Reaction score
5,594
Location
Newnan
As some of you may remember, I listed this pistol up for a buddy of mine. Well, it didn't sale. I talked to him today and told him that the highest offer for it was $250 and he said that if I wanted it for $250, he'd take it. So, I guess it's mine now.

Now to the point, I need/want to get it refinished. I don't care what it will do to it's value because it's not worth anything in the current condition. I would be perfectly happy having it re-blued by the factory, but was told that they won't do it because it's an older gun and they don't have replacement parts for it. So, it's either get it ceracoated or try to find someone locally that does hot bluing. Any idea of someone that does that in the Newnan area? I haven't called Dobbs or Otts yet to check w/ them. But, neither of them are exactly local either.

What do y'all think I should do w/ the gun? And any recommendations on who to use to get it refinished?

preston6.jpg
preston7.jpg
 
It is in about the shape of my 39-1. It shoots great and looks fine. I see no need to spend money on it.

Remember it will not 'blue" in the true sense. The frame is anodized aluminum.

In 5 years you, or someone else is gonna really regret putting some wiz-bang tactical coating on a useful, functional classic looking firearm.
If you just have to spend your money, I suggest having it nickeled. It will look much nicer than other fad coatings. I bet an Nickel job would make it so you could get more than $250 for it.

Thanks for posting pics - I just can't get enough of those classic pieces.

p.s. I would more than $250 for it, and I really don't need another 39.
 
jhvaughan2 said:
It is in about the shape of my 39-1. It shoots great and looks fine. I see no need to spend money on it.

Remember it will not 'blue" in the true sense. The frame is anodized aluminum.

In 5 years you, or someone else is gonna really regret putting some wiz-bang tactical coating on a useful, functional classic looking firearm.
If you just have to spend your money, I suggest having it nickeled. It will look much nicer than other fad coatings. I bet an Nickel job would make it so you could get more than $250 for it.

Thanks for posting pics - I just can't get enough of those classic pieces.

p.s. I would more than $250 for it, and I really don't need another 39.
Click to expand...


I would like to get it back as close to original finish as possible. So, even if I decide to cerakoate, it will be dark blue/black. The deciding factor to whatever I do will be cost. I'm not going to throw a lot of money into it.
 
As the frame is aluminum Cerakote it a dark color of choice. It will be many times more durable than the original black paint used by the factory. To do just the frame should not be expensive, less so if the frame is bare/disassembled.

You can cold blue it and it can streak. But if you don't like it vinegar will remove it and you can start over or if it's to be Cerakoted leave it be and let the blast media used to prep it take it off.

A little trick I found is wear rubber gloves, a small pan of cold blue, a roll of white only paper towel (no dyes) and using a propane torch to heat the metal in sections and wipe the cold blue on the hot surface. It should just sizzle a tad, don't heat cherry red. Don't breath the fumes-use a fan to suck it away-outside.

Once the slide is prepped and oil free-don't touch with bare hands and placed on pure white clean paper towel try 2-3 coats using this heating method.

It's not as durable as caustic hot blue but it yields a right nice blue (if the prep work was done) and touches up nicely when it wears.



I'd strip the slide down bare and remove the rear sight. Take sight apart and after cleaning it might glass bead blast it, then using a tiny plastic bag dump it in there with a enough cold blue to cover all the metal and in a minute or two have a sight that looks new after cleaning and oiling it. Any white outline or dots can be touched up using white refrigerator touch up paint.

To prep the slide I'd glass bead blast the top of slide curve and front sight. Then use a pane of glass with 400-600-800 grit sand paper and carefully polish the flats of the slide, maintaining the same strokes, staying with the grain of the metal. I'd polish that extractor too and perhaps the flat on the safety lever-glass bead blasting the other side of the lever.


If it looks crappy so what remove with vinegar or simply Cerakote it. No harm or foul unless you go crazy sanding metal and forget to keep the stamp markings clear, the rounds round and the flats, squared and flat.
 
RamRoddoc said:
As the frame is aluminum Cerakote it a dark color of choice. It will be many times more durable than the original black paint used by the factory. To do just the frame should not be expensive, less so if the frame is bare/disassembled.

You can cold blue it and it can streak. But if you don't like it vinegar will remove it and you can start over or if it's to be Cerakoted leave it be and let the blast media used to prep it take it off.

A little trick I found is wear rubber gloves, a small pan of cold blue, a roll of white only paper towel (no dyes) and using a propane torch to heat the metal in sections and wipe the cold blue on the hot surface. It should just sizzle a tad, don't heat cherry red. Don't breath the fumes-use a fan to suck it away-outside.

Once the slide is prepped and oil free-don't touch with bare hands and placed on pure white clean paper towel try 2-3 coats using this heating method.

It's not as durable as caustic hot blue but it yields a right nice blue (if the prep work was done) and touches up nicely when it wears.



I'd strip the slide down bare and remove the rear sight. Take sight apart and after cleaning it might glass bead blast it, then using a tiny plastic bag dump it in there with a enough cold blue to cover all the metal and in a minute or two have a sight that looks new after cleaning and oiling it. Any white outline or dots can be touched up using white refrigerator touch up paint.

To prep the slide I'd glass bead blast the top of slide curve and front sight. Then use a pane of glass with 400-600-800 grit sand paper and carefully polish the flats of the slide, maintaining the same strokes, staying with the grain of the metal. I'd polish that extractor too and perhaps the flat on the safety lever-glass bead blasting the other side of the lever.


If it looks crappy so what remove with vinegar or simply Cerakote it. No harm or foul unless you go crazy sanding metal and forget to keep the stamp markings clear, the rounds round and the flats, squared and flat.
Click to expand...


I do not trust my level of skill in refinishing it. But, Brian Ott did recommend someone in Florida and I have an email out to him. Looks like it's gonna cost about another $250-$300 to refinish it. Not sure I am wanting to invest that much into this gun, so I may just get a can of Rustoleum? LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

  • Locked
Looking for a S&W rebound spring K or L frame
Replies
0
Views
34
southeastarmory
southeastarmory
Where to get an extended slide stop/release for CZ P-09
Replies
3
Views
62
pk20812
P
Glock 21, gen. 2 cracked frame.
Replies
8
Views
223
Gunanddoglover
Gunanddoglover

Featured Listings!

Back
Top Bottom