Recommendations for taking “bounce” out of an AR10

same rifle and just developing a load for it (and getting optics set up) but I have a SD-E trigger in mine (prefer the 2 stage), will see how it works long term. I've got a decent amount of 175SMK's to work with, hopefully will get to the range in the next week or two, but also need to get a decent scope for it (or borrow one off another rifle for load development).
 
I know exactly what you are describing and had similar experiences with both a DPMS and PSA, granted they were budget set ups.

I ended up going the M1A route for a little while to scratch the itch… much heavier too lmao!
 
I know exactly what you are describing and had similar experiences with both a DPMS and PSA, granted they were budget set ups.

I ended up going the M1A route for a little while to scratch the itch… much heavier too lmao!

My brother has a stag arms DI .308 that’s not as bad with the bounce. You feel the BCG reciprocate more in the stock and then lurch forward.

I think the piston in this PWS is the part of the issue. And I need to work more on fundamentals to control it. It just comes up and off the bag while shooting.
 
same rifle and just developing a load for it (and getting optics set up) but I have a SD-E trigger in mine (prefer the 2 stage), will see how it works long term. I've got a decent amount of 175SMK's to work with, hopefully will get to the range in the next week or two, but also need to get a decent scope for it (or borrow one off another rifle for load development).

Have you noticed what I’m talking about? It kind of comes off the bag and up. Feels like I’m shooting a poorly gassed AK.

Trigger doesn’t help either. But again I can overcome that with fundamentals.
 
Have you noticed what I’m talking about? It kind of comes off the bag and up. Feels like I’m shooting a poorly gassed AK.

Trigger doesn’t help either. But again I can overcome that with fundamentals.
Sounds more like a muzzle brake issue. Of course my muzzle brake cost a smooth 180. It was a Custom job from Texas Precision. It was a 3 port job with ports on top. I think you need to pursue that route a little further. I though at first you were talking about just the hit of the bolt but you are talking a whole different situation.
 
Sounds more like a muzzle brake issue. Of course my muzzle brake cost a smooth 180. It was a Custom job from Texas Precision. It was a 3 port job with ports on top. I think you need to pursue that route a little further. I though at first you were talking about just the hit of the bolt but you are talking a whole different situation.

No it’s the bolt. Just the whole operation feels violent. Lol.

It has a really, really nice brake on it. Recoil does not hurt, or slap the whole gun just bounces. It’s hard to describe. I think cmshoot articulated earlier in the thread .308 AR10 recoil impulses.

I’ll try the grease trick, new trigger, and shooting fundamentals.
 
No it’s the bolt. Just the whole operation feels violent. Lol.

It has a really, really nice brake on it. Recoil does not hurt, or slap the whole gun just bounces. It’s hard to describe. I think cmshoot articulated earlier in the thread .308 AR10 recoil impulses.

I’ll try the grease trick, new trigger, and shooting fundamentals.
Grease will smooth out the action, and dampen vibration and noise. From everything you are telling us then I believe it to be the buffer is to light or the spring is the incorrect pressure or both the above.

Have you tried to go up in buffer weight. My 6.8's were hitting, way, way, way too hard in my early years of 6.8spc experience. Now I start with a H2 and have a H3 in my 14.7 inch 6.8 gun. That is 2 levels over a carbine weight. Now they shoot really soft. I just now figured out that a H3 helps the 14.7 and that's one of the oldest 6.8's I have. I just didn't shoot it hardly any in favor of the attraction to my 18 inch WC Super Sniper barrel. That is a extremely soft shooting gun. It is as light if not lighter than the 14.7 in barrel. That due to barrel profile characteristic differences and Titanium parts on the 18 inch gun. The next step in possible fixes are spring pressure increase, buffer weight change and some use a adj. gas bleed off block. The last of which is the source of debate. I don't use one simply because it's just adding another failure point. I would start with buffer weight to slow the cyclic rate down. Only make one change at a time so you know exactly what that change feels like.

I know we have been all over the map here but one person saying that my gun bounces might mean a different thing to another shooter. That being said an AR-10 is going to cause a more violent feeling. however, you should be able to tame it a bit if you are running a standard carbine set up. Sorry about all the misinterpretation.
 
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