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New Deer Rig...Finally

Junior_357

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Well...after about 24 years of hunting with my Marlin 336 in .35 Rem...I think it's about time I moved into this century for a new hunting rig. And here is it...finally all put together (sorry for the picture quality):

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[Broken External Image]:
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Browning X-Bolt in .25-06 - 24" barrel
Sightron SII Big Sky 3-12x42 w/ hold-over reticle
Browning X-Lock (Talley) Integral Rings/Bases

Haven't had the chance to shoot it yet...so the only thing I can tell you is this: I need to invest in the company that manufactures the "rust preventative" Browning coats their guns in for shipment. I only say this because there was enough of it in/on my new gun to coat 3 guns. Took about 10 passes with a combination of Bore-Snake & patches to finally get it all out of the bore.

Thanks for looking!
 
Nice rig!
For best accuracy it's important to break the barrel in correctly. It can cut your group sizes in half. This is what I recommend.

This is my preferred break in process. It's a little over the top, but I know it works. I use Outers Nitro Solvent Gun Cleaner and Outers Gun Oil. The primary reason for using Outers is because you can get the Solvent in aerosol and I use the Oil because I don't like to mix brands of cleaning liquids.

1) Point the barrel down and spray the solvent from breach to muzzle while rotating the rifle so the solvent coats the barrel well on all sides. Keep spraying until the solvent is freely running out of the muzzle. Every time you spray the barrel it should be done like this.
2) Using a bore guide and with the breach end slightly higher than the muzzle, scrub the barrel with a brass brush 20 strokes. One time down and back is one stroke.
3) Repeat step one.
4) Use a well fitted jag and patch the barrel until you get clean, dry patches. Use a clean patch on each stroke. The patches don't need to be spotless. There is a good chance you will pick up a little dirt from the chamber.
5) Fire one round and repeat steps one to four.
6) Repeat step five a total of five times.
7) Fire three rounds and repeat steps one to four.
8) Repeat step seven a total of five times.

Make sure to swab the chamber after each cleaning so you do not get any build up in it.
You will have fired a total of 20 rounds.

Lightly spray the barrel with the oil and patch dry.
 
Thanks, guys...I still have to decide exactly how I will break the rifle in, but I will keep that process in mind. I definitely want this thing to be a seriously accurate shooter...
 
Thanks, guys...I still have to decide exactly how I will break the rifle in, but I will keep that process in mind. I definitely want this thing to be a seriously accurate shooter...

Just so you know.

Part of my profession is to work up loads for maximum accuracy for other peoples rifles. Many times they send the rifle to me unfired and pay me to break it in for them. My reputation is rapped up in the ultimate accuracy of the rifle. I use the break in process I described above when my reputation is on the line.

Just sayin. ;)
 
Just so you know.

Part of my profession is to work up loads for maximum accuracy for other peoples rifles. Many times they send the rifle to me unfired and pay me to break it in for them. My reputation is rapped up in the ultimate accuracy of the rifle. I use the break in process I described above when my reputation is on the line.

Just sayin. ;)

Please don't take this as me picking a fight...or making light of your professional practice. It's not that in the least...believe me.

The subject of barrel break-in pretty much splits the shooting world right down the middle. From what I have read (quite extensive reading on the internet), I have found at least 2 different reputable, world-record holding custom barrel makers who are diametrically opposed on the subject. Competitive shooters are somewhat split on the subject. In fact...there is a large contingent that seems to believe that the quality & accuracy of a barrel is decided long before the first shot is fired - and factory barrels are hit or miss at best. Everyone seems to have some opinion on the matter...and few agree on a set procedure that works. In fact... about the only thing most people agree that it is often better to do no procedure at all that to do a ritualistic procedure incorrectly.

All that being said...I have no intent of damaging the barrel on the Browning. I will be getting a bore guide (probably Lucas - since his is almost mutually agreed as being one of the best) before I do anything more than the light patching and bore-snaking that I did to get the gunk out of the barrel. As to how I will break the barrel in...I will probably do a less-intensive (less brushing) procedure. I mean really...this is primarily a hunting weapon. I'm not trying to build a rifle that will dot the 'I' on a Tide box from 300 yards out. If it will hit the Tide box repetitively...that's pretty much all I need.

Just out of curiousity...what do you typically charge to break in a barrel?
 
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Please don't take this as me picking a fight...or making light of your professional practice. It's not that in the least...believe me.

The subject of barrel break-in pretty much splits the shooting world right down the middle. From what I have read (quite extensive reading on the internet), I have found at least 2 different reputable, world-record holding custom barrel makers who are diametrically opposed on the subject. Competitive shooters are somewhat split on the subject. In fact...there is a large contingent that seems to believe that the quality & accuracy of a barrel is decided long before the first shot is fired - and factory barrels are hit or miss at best. Everyone seems to have some opinion on the matter...and few agree on a set procedure that works. In fact... about the only thing most people agree that it is often better to do no procedure at all that to do a ritualistic procedure incorrectly.

All that being said...I have no intent of damaging the barrel on the Browning. I will be getting a bore guide (probably Lucas - since his is almost mutually agreed as being one of the best) before I do anything more than the light patching and bore-snaking that I did to get the gunk out of the barrel. As to how I will break the barrel in...I will probably do a less-intensive (less brushing) procedure. I mean really...this is primarily a hunting weapon. I'm not trying to build a rifle that will dot the 'I' on a Tide box from 300 yards out. If it will hit the Tide box repetitively...that's pretty much all I need.

Just out of curiousity...what do you typically charge to break in a barrel?

No worries about offending me. I have a much thicker skin than that. You touched on a very important factor. Initial quality of the barrel. There are some high end barrels that break in is redundant on, however, on typical factory produced firearms the quality is always in question. If you do a break in procedure correctly (for one thing, don't use copper solvent) it won't hurt the barrel in any way and could improve accuracy tremendously. Remember, you only get one chance at it.

I charge $50.00 plus the cost of the ammo. It's a lot of elbow grease and it takes about an hour to do it right.
 
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I will say this: While I don't have a bore scope...using the old bore light trick, the barrel on this gun is clean, smooth and shiny after the initial cleaning. I know...that means little since you can't really see the tooling marks using this inspection method. At least I know I got all the rust preventative gunk (and it was some thick, sticky, nasty stuff) out of the bore.

Bear44...if you were closer to me, I would seriously consider letting you do this. But since I live on the other side of the planet (west of Marietta) and I am unemployed...I might just have to do it myself. Since this is a new caliber for me...I have to invest in all new cleaning equipment (brushes, jags, even a new cleaning rod). Once I have all that...I will consider firing the rifle, but not before. I did buy a bore snake for it...because I consider it to be the best, quickest field cleaning device for any weapon.

I might send you a PM in a minute...just to hash a couple of things out. Thanks again for all the info.
 
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