Crimping

[zracin]

I bought a 3 piece Lee die set to start reloading my .500S&W. After reading through the reloading manual and online information, it is apparent that I need to crimp my rounds. After making a few rounds, and adjusting, I dont see any crimping happening. Does my seating die not do any form of crimping? Do i need a separate factory crimping die?

 

[Clarke123]

I bought a 3 piece Lee die set to start reloading my .500S&W. After reading through the reloading manual and online information, it is apparent that I need to crimp my rounds. After making a few rounds, and adjusting, I dont see any crimping happening. Does my seating die not do any form of crimping? Do i need a separate factory crimping die?

I'm not familiar with loading .500 S&W, but every Lee Dies Set I have ever bought hasa set of set-up instructions that come with it, or downloadable from their website. If the seater die does do some form of crimp, the "how-to-do" instructions should be there.

That said, I prefer to use Lee's separate crimp die because it normally give a more precise crimp, especially on straight walled cases which can be "crushed" by overly enthusiastic crimping in the seating die. On the other hand, many do not crimp their straight walled cases because they feel that they don't need it. Heavy recoil loads may demand it though.

 

[Springfield 1911]

I ain't too familiar with the 500 s and w either. I don't crimp any of my revolver cases the likleyhood of a bullet seating itself deeper in the case and increasing pressures is remote. You may need to depending on how much flare you have on your case mouth.

 

[Flashover16]

well to my knowledge all Lee dies have the ability to crimp (roll crimp) or a lesser version of a roll crimp, but as mentioned when in doubt ask the manufacture.
Now i am not familair with the 500 either and i almost always shoot and load autoes now days.
that being said the crimp type and amount is normally dictated by the type of projectile.
IF the projectile has a cannilure (groove) then it is designed for a roll crimp, these are normally found in heavy recoiling pistol and rifle calibers.
I always roll cimped both 41 and 44 magnums.
most if not all semi auto calibers typically use a taper crimp as they head space on the front of the case, and seldom do the projectiles have crimp groove.
MY preferred method is to use the LEE factory crimp die on the auto loaders and it so far works to perfection!
the problem with heavy recoil in pistol cartirdges that are not crimped is generally not seat back ( this typically occurs with semi autoes as they ride up the feed ramp) in revolvers the projectile atually works its way forward and can lock the weapon down by pushing the cartridge rearward binding against the back of the the frame as the round elongates.

 

[Chuckdog]

If you're shooting any revolver round, it needs a firm crimp to prevent being shot lose and for good consistent start pressures.

That said, that 500 will require a very firm roll crimp. Once you have the seating performed on you're first round, unscrew the seating insert several turns away from the bullet. After that, loosen your dies lock ring with the ram still at the top of the stroke. Turn the die body clockwise till you feel the die come in contact with the case.

After the die body makes contact, lower the ram a bit then turn the die body about a 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time, raising the ram and check for the desire crimp. Always apply a firm bottoming to make sure you get consistent crimps. Once you turn the die body down and get the needed crimp, lock the die body.

With the ram still at the top of the stroke turn the seater insert in till it makes solid contact with the bullet. Lower your ram, insert your next charged case, seat your bullet again with a firm finish. You should have a near perfectly seated and crimped round.

 

[Clarke123]

If you're shooting any revolver round, it needs a firm crimp to prevent being shot lose and for good consistent start pressures.

That said, that 500 will require a very firm roll crimp. Once you have the seating performed on you're first round, unscrew the seating insert several turns away from the bullet. After that, loosen your dies lock ring with the ram still at the top of the stroke. Turn the die body clockwise till you feel the die come in contact with the case.

After the die body makes contact, lower the ram a bit then turn the die body about a 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time, raising the ram and check for the desire crimp. Always apply a firm bottoming to make sure you get consistent crimps. Once you turn the die body down and get the needed crimp, lock the die body.

With the ram still at the top of the stroke turn the seater insert in till it makes solid contact with the bullet. Lower your ram, insert your next charged case, seat your bullet again with a firm finish. You should have a near perfectly seated and crimped round.

Chuck Dog is far more articulate than I am, and the bullet seating instructions from Lee can be confusing .. basically setting the proper OAL prior to adjusting level of crimp
not only works, but saves a lot of wrinkled cases! Some, including me, will take a factory load with the identical projectile that has been properly loaded to the target OAL and use it as our "templet" for reloading; hand setting (screwing down until we feel a stop - not too tight) the die onto the templet round then then gently hand screwing the actual seater adjustment rod onto the round.

If in doubt - follow Chuck's advice to the letter ...

 

[MacTavish]

Before I do all the work listed above I think I'll sniff a little popcorn.

 

[zracin]

If you're shooting any revolver round, it needs a firm crimp to prevent being shot lose and for good consistent start pressures.

That said, that 500 will require a very firm roll crimp. Once you have the seating performed on you're first round, unscrew the seating insert several turns away from the bullet. After that, loosen your dies lock ring with the ram still at the top of the stroke. Turn the die body clockwise till you feel the die come in contact with the case.

After the die body makes contact, lower the ram a bit then turn the die body about a 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time, raising the ram and check for the desire crimp. Always apply a firm bottoming to make sure you get consistent crimps. Once you turn the die body down and get the needed crimp, lock the die body.

With the ram still at the top of the stroke turn the seater insert in till it makes solid contact with the bullet. Lower your ram, insert your next charged case, seat your bullet again with a firm finish. You should have a near perfectly seated and crimped round.

I really appreciate it. That sounds like a lot of work! I think it may be more practical/possible, for me, to pick up a separate crimping die. I was under the impression it would be a more simplified one time/one process adjustment to the die to seat/crimp.

 

[Clarke123]

I really appreciate it. That sounds like a lot of work! I think it may be more practical/possible, for me, to pick up a separate crimping die. I was under the impression it would be a more simplified one time/one process adjustment to the die to seat/crimp.

Re-loading is somewhat of a precision process if you want safe and accurate results.
Think about it .. 1/10 of a grain on either side of a load isn't normally a problem unless you are near the maximum loading for a powder;
at which point you must "trickle" and weigh each and every load ... Now, that's a lot of trouble ... but if you don't mind a KABOOM now and again,
I would say "ignore it" ... but then I worry about myself and others that may be standing near you when a KABOOM happens!

Keep in mind that if your case lengths vary in length (un-trimmed or un-gauged) then you will have problems.
While most straight walled pistol cases require infrequent trimming, I always "gauge" a batch before loading them.
This to assure that the set-up will not experience any problems,,,, a little trouble, but worthit to me!

 

[RamRoddoc]

All real good points and should allow you to make some good rounds.

Heavy recoiling revolver rounds dictate a firm "roll" crimp and many bullets have a groove in order to facilitate this. If you didn't put quite enough crimp on it at about round 5 or 6 the cylinder will lock up as the bullets grow with each dose of recoil-pull of the trigger, extending out the cylinder face.

Too much crimp distorts the bullet and can affect accuracy. You need some crimp but "don't go crazy".