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Black powder revolver questions??

Bob_Billy107

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Hey guys I just had a few questions about black powder revolvers and thought the odt would be the perfect place to ask them.

-How hard are they to clean, can you use hoppes no. 9?
-Can the Pyrodex RS and Triple7 be used in them(it states they are rifle powders but didn't know if all black powder and substitutes can be used in rifles and pistols)?
-I have heard black powder rifles don't have to go through an ffl, do revolvers?
-Can you dry fire black powder revolvers as in practicing quick draw?

Thanks for any responses.
 
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Use hot soapy water and then use hoppes no. 9 to clean them if you want. I use a homemade solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol, 1 part hydrogen peroxide and 1 part Murphys Oil soap. Found the recipe on the net apparently a lot of shooters use it. For my guns I use pyrodex in, I add a little vinegar. Plain hot water will work also.

I don't know about Pyrodex RS or Triple 7, but I've used Pyrodex P. Keep in mind when using pyrodex, it must be cleaned as well as you would black powder. The difference is, Pyrodex residue is alkaline in nature and black powder residue is acidic. An alkaline substance on steel will have the same effect as acid. Windex with vinegar is a good neutralizer to run through the bore and not enough acid to hurt the finish if thats all you want to use.

No FFL or anything required, I ordered my first when I was 17 (a brass frame remington new army) that was 27 years ago.

If you dry fire it you will damage the nipples on the cylinder. When its loaded, there is a little cushion when the hammer hits the cap.

14 years ago I bought a couple 1860 army replicas, first thing I had to do with each one is rework the cylinder hands. The cylinders would lock up straight out of the box, couldn't cock the hammer or turn the cylinder. One was a pietta and the other I don't know who made it, both were new. Quality was pretty poor. Uberti is great quality from what I hear. You'll also need to get a set of jewlers files for the 1860's. The rear aiming notch is a v on the hammer and you may have to deepen it to lower point of impact to point of aim. Not much you can do with a Remington new army replica except file the front sight down a little if needed to raise point of aim. If your shooting high, lower the powder charge some. If your shooting low, raise it to within reason. Blackpowder pistols are great fun!
Again, be very careful with pyrodex, don't underestimate the need to clean it thoroughly.
 
Thanks a lot, BP seems to be a lot more complicated than I first thought it would be. I'm going to be purchasing a book all about black powder so that I can know more about it and be safe while enjoying it.
 
Thanks a lot, BP seems to be a lot more complicated than I first thought it would be. I'm going to be purchasing a book all about black powder so that I can know more about it and be safe while enjoying it.
 
Couple things.

Plain ole water is fine for cleaning black powder or most of the subs. I clean mine in the sink with hot soapy water and then rub em down with bore butter really well. Soap cuts the surface tension of the water and causes it to cut into the crud just a bit faster. You could also use some Hoppes No. 9 PLUS as it is made for black powder...

Pyrodex and T7 in the rifle grinds will work but they wont be as energetic as the pistol grinds would be.

Depends on the state you live in. In GA they do not need to go thru an FFL, in fact you can order a muzzleloading firearm off the internet and have it shipped directly to your home.

Dry firing will depend on the fit and finish of the firearm. Most of them are not fit to dry fire BUT if you tune them up correctly it can be done. Wont hurt my Ruger Old Army with factory nipples. The hammer is supposed to hit the stop just short of hitting the nipple but oh so close that it would set off a cap.
 
Like a few have already said, hot soapy water to clean them.
I use olive oil to lubricate them with (read not to use petroleum based oils so I started that way and stuck with it).
I have only used triple 7 in FFF so I can confirm it is safe and works fine. You use about 15% less of it than you would for the same load of BP.
No FFL needed here in GA (and many other states). Order online and have it shipped to yourself.
Dry firing, wouldn't do it unless you have a Ruger Old Army. All others will mushroom out the nipples and create an impression in the hammer but as tv_racin_fan stated, the hammer on a Ruger Old Army is designed to stop just short of the nipples (factory nipples) so dry firing those is safe.
 
Rinse with hot water or hot soapy water soon after shooting. Corrosion can start within hours, especially for cheaper grade steel. The biggest problem is the salts left behind after ignition of the powder. Some people say to use Windex because it will neutralize the salts left behind. This is incorrect, since: 1) a salt is the neutralization product of an acid and a base; 2) Windex does not contain ammonia; and 3) ammonia cannot neutralize a salt even if it were present. The Windex merely acts as a surfactant like the soap to help remove deposits. Just use hot soapy water, followed by hot water, and then let it dry thoroughly.
 
Another trick:

Just disassemble them and put it in the dishwasher. I have done it 100's of times.

I did Civil War re-enacting for many years and after shooting blank rounds, which are far more nasty than live rounds, I would take the pistols home, pop the cylinders out and grips off and run them through the dishwasher. I didn't let them dry in the dishwasher, I would take them out and spray them down with WD-40 and wrap them in an oiled rag till I got ready to go again.

I have shot many live rounds too. Same cleaning procedure.

Just my 2 cents.

I have 6 1858 New Model Remington 44 pistols, a Colt .36 Navy, a Colt .36 Sheriff's Model and a Philadelphia Derringer .44. I have shot them all many times.

I have rifles too, just can't get them in the dishwasher lol. With the hammer down, pour boiling water down the barrel, hold the gun by the strap with the barrel at better than a 45 degree angle and swing it back and forth. This washes the powder residue loose. Pour it out and the heat left over from the boiling water will dry the barrel. Then cock the hammer and spray down the bore with WD-40. I then wiped down the outside with a good oil.
 
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