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Anybody use dry additives to their vibratory tumblers' corn cob media?

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Screenshot 2024-03-19 at 20-58-16 Lyman Turbo Brite Brass Polish for Untreated Shell or Corn C...png
Screenshot 2024-03-19 at 20-57-51 Lucas Oil Gun Metal Polish Tumbler Media Additive 16oz Liquid.png

I am sure you have heard of these three.




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I have used the turtle wax...paste...Not sure what the product is called...maybe a small squirt into the lizard media. I run it 30 min to mix then put brass in. haven't used since I went wet...but w/live primers I assume corncob or walnut is the only way.

I WOULD be worried about flash holes, but like you said....prolly only affect SD/ES
 
I have used the turtle wax...paste...Not sure what the product is called...maybe a small squirt into the lizard media. I run it 30 min to mix then put brass in. haven't used since I went wet...but w/live primers I assume corncob or walnut is the only way.

I WOULD be worried about flash holes, but like you said....prolly only affect SD/ES
Actual, real world controlled testing has proven otherwise. I've tested this many years ago with a labratory grade chronograph. I wouldn't embark on this without some prior knowledge of what I was doing. I only asked about others use of dry addititives and what they may have found to increase the efficacy of the corncob or walnut media.

I've read all the "I wouldn't" "You shouldn't" and other posts of suppositions, and while input is appreciated, that wasn't my question.

I know this might read diccish but that's not my intent.

I have so far found using dry media in a large volume rotary tumbler to be effective but a little dusty, even with dryer sheets added. A toss in a large terry bath sheet reduces that dust on the cases. I'll experiment with the crushed walnt just delivered. Seems 5lb of dry and about 500-600 cases per load for two hours is working well with cob and no treatment addiditves. Walnut may work faster with less dust since it is much harder.
 
Why? Done tens of thousands with no ill effect whatsoever.
Nothing but old man instinct, honestly. Primers are sensitive, I've always kept handling and exposure to a bare minimum and avoided ignition problems. I was taught to never tumble loaded ammunition, period. With unprimed cases, I've always had problems to some degree with clogged flash holes (I stopped dry tumbling largely because of it). To me, tumbling primed cases with the primer innards exposed to debris falls somewhere smack dab in the middle of all that. There's also the resale/customer support aspect to think about. The first one that fails to detonate will cause ill will with someone, somewhere. The second one is going to generate a phone call, email, bad review, etc. The third one makes someone angry, and the entire lot is suspect.

Entirely my opinion, based on my experiences. I wouldn't do it.
--thebassdude
 
Nothing but old man instinct, honestly. Primers are sensitive, I've always kept handling and exposure to a bare minimum and avoided ignition problems. I was taught to never tumble loaded ammunition, period. With unprimed cases, I've always had problems to some degree with clogged flash holes (I stopped dry tumbling largely because of it). To me, tumbling primed cases with the primer innards exposed to debris falls somewhere smack dab in the middle of all that. There's also the resale/customer support aspect to think about. The first one that fails to detonate will cause ill will with someone, somewhere. The second one is going to generate a phone call, email, bad review, etc. The third one makes someone angry, and the entire lot is suspect.

Entirely my opinion, based on my experiences. I wouldn't do it.
--thebassdude
Thanks for your old man instinct. I'm not asking about shipping, handling, sensitivity, etc. I already have first hand experience with all that and am not looking for an argument or Fuddlore.

I'm guessing no one has any practical experience with this topic so I'll close the thread.

Thanks for the replies and guesses.
 
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