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A question for you veteran Reloaders

I suppose I should be fair and qualify my statement about Lee. I too use the universal decapper, the case mouth expander and the factory crimp dies. Just never been happy with their caliber specific dies except the .577-450 Martini Henry.
 
I've tried a few case lubes over the past 10 years. I stumbled into Sharp Shoot R Royal Case Sizing Lube a few years ago when nothing else was available. I won't use anything else now.


It's often OOS...like now.

I do run the sized cases through my vibratory tumbler for an hour or so to remove the lube.
 
The one shot works very well for me. Of course I give it a good spray but it provides a smooth entry and exit with the casing. I've never had a problem other than them just covered in that residue from the spray. All I do is rifle brass so if it takes lubrication to do those as well it doesn't seem like it's worth the extra coin.
All bottle neck rifle cartridges require lube regardless if the die is carbide or not. I use One Shot or home brew Heat and lanolin in spray bottle.
 
While we are talking about dies, I broke the decapping pin on my Hornady 9mm die. After getting it apart, it uses the new style pin with a head instead of the straight one. Are all the headed decapping pins universal? I see some on Amazon them for RCBS; but not Hornady? Just trying to get the rest of my loads knocked out. I can order from Midwest and get them in about a week if needed.
U can call Hornady for replacement spindles, decapping pins

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All bottle neck rifle cartridges require lube regardless if the die is carbide or not. I use One Shot or home brew Heat and lanolin in spray bottle.
You make a good point... lanolin or beeswax and 100% alcohol (Heat) is probably the formula for One Shot. Might be cheaper to do it yourself. One Shot is pricey, but a little goes a long way.
 
You make a good point... lanolin or beeswax and 100% alcohol (Heat) is probably the formula for One Shot. Might be cheaper to do it yourself. One Shot is pricey, but a little goes a long way.

New to reloading, old hand at 'bucket chemistry'. And a user of Imperial Wax.

A mix of lanolin (or beeswax) with alcohol is often claimed to be safe for use as a lubricant on cases for resizing. Some people point out that 99% alcohol should be used because the remainder (water) can damage smokeless powder.

The thing is that alcohol does react with nitrocellulose, and it also reacts with some of the chemicals that are used as stabilizers for smokeless powders, so I'm not convinced that the claim is correct.

Now, while you're processing the brass, the small amount of alcohol that is in the mix may well boil off and reduce the risk to a very low level, but I'd still consider keeping powder and primers away from the cases for a while to be a good idea, and in practice, those cases lying around for 20 minutes before you start the next stage in reloading might be more than enough time for the miniscule amounts of alcohol to boil off.

On the other hand, if Dillon really do make their case lube with alcohol and lanolin, that's fine by me.
 
Lanolin + Alcohol. Alcohol flashes off more rapidly and leaves less mineral deposits (unless you use distilled or deionized) than water. Additionally, Lanolin is a complex mix of molecules, fats, waxes, definitely has solubility problems in just plain water so alcohol, the purer the better, is the best thing.

When paired with wet tumbling its a great combination. Lanolin mixture gets you easily through sizing, wet tumbling cleans it all off so you don't need to worry about fouling of powders/primers.
 
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