A New Model Old Model Blackhawk

[Sharps40]

Well, got my first New Model Old Model Blackhawk.

I'll have to get pics up. Its the 50th Anniversary 357 flattop. Basically the late 50s size and shape with the current guts.

On the old school side it has Flat top, smaller frame, Steel Micro rear sight, 4 5/8", Steel Ejector Rod Housing, Steel grip XR3 (Colt size/shape/length of pull) frame, checkered rubber grips and faux ivory grips.

On the modern side it has internal lock and cartridge positioning, and the retractable pawl.

Looks great, just fits right in the De Santis cross draw holster.

High polish black and absolutely the smoothest and best fit of any Blackhawk I ever laid my boogerhooks on. Looking forward to shooting it. Something must be said for the new model guts, they are I think much better than the oft touted Old Model guts. Overall its a better gun and lots more refined.

Unfortunatly, it has an entire novel on the barrel and the dates on top are gold filled. Nothing worse on a gun that a book and filled lettering. It also has transfer bar pinch.

Once the cylinder index assembly, retractable pawl and internal lock are removed and the transfer bar pinch corrected it'll be perfect....cept for that dayum gold lettering.

Its heavier than an old model 3 screw too. Plan for now it to simply carry it and have some fun. At $350 for LNIB I'm pleased.

 

[Sharps40]

First thing to do on this New Model Old Model is try out the free spin conversion. Cylinder movement unimpeded in both directions for loading and unloading. Simply remove the pin, spring and set screw that index the cylinder for loading and unloading. I doubt I'll be putting these parts back in the gun so they go in the box with the lock keys and factory grips. And, after trying the free spin, I doubt I'll like it either.......I already know how to load and unload and don't need the help of the extra parts, the old model did well enough with its following pawl.

The cylinder indexing plunger, spring and screw is removed from the back side. Here they sit on the Altimont Ivory Grips and you see the hole at 5 oclock where the CIP used to ride against the bottom of the cylinder ratchet.

See the bright spot at 12 o'clock on the grip frame? No machined groove there. What that tells me is that all the worries about cutting a matching mortise in a new grip frame for the new model retracting pawl is unneeded worry. (some grip frames have a mortise for the foot of the retracting pawl, this one does not.) So, simply select your new grip frame and if you want to retain a retracting pawl for free spin function, fit the dogleg of the pawl to the grip frame and don't sweat making a mortise in the grip frame. Too simple. If you don't want the free spin function, either reinstall the CIP or try installing a legless pawl. I'll probably install a legless pawl if I don't' like free spin in order to preserve the original parts of the gun in the gun box.

The grip frame is XR3/Colt style, closer to the trigger. It'll need a new mainspring seat to eliminate the lock which will never get used. I know, Ruger put the locks in dryers with bricks and steel bits and dynamite and acid and my wife complaining at em at full volume and none of the locks broke....that's nice, the lock will go in the pretty red box anyway.

And if you look at the photo above and then here below, the XR3/Colt steel grip frame has plenty o meat for smalling it up later if ya got a roundbutt or birds head itch. Here is the grip panel pattern from Mr. Belly Gun. The Altamont ivory grips are cute, the factory checkered black plastic is tacky, wood is best I think. For now, the XR3/Colt shape is fine as is.

Not bad....a bit long, but almost okay and I could live with it...but the front sight is like all rugers, THICK. It does need a Bisley hammer....perhaps a nice stainless halfnotch model.

The cylinder latch needs work on its top and forward curve. The cylinder line is already bright and the front curve of the latch is also marking the locking mortises on the front edge.

I hate filled lettering. I wonder if it'll wear off any time soon? Prolly not.

Nicely, the cylinder pin of the New Model Old Model mimics the function of a true 3 screw.....that is, fully removeable without having to unscrew and detach the ejector rod assembly. Good for cleaning and maintenance. And, no wing on the cylinder pin so you can install it without worrying about whether its turned too far around and going to scratch the barrel or bind about half way in or out.

 

[Sharps40]

A bit of hoppes and a toothbrush and the gold glop is gone. The lettering will get covered by the long ramp that will be going on the barrel. I'll have to polish off the manual on the side.

The free spin feature is not to my liking and since I have no intention of reinstalling the cylinder indexing pin assembly (I consider it superfulus, they are easy to load and unload without such additional parts) its time to remove the free spin leg at the bottom of the stainless steel pawl.

Once gone, some stoning is in order to smooth up the pawl since they are installed as cast/minimally finished.

Now the gun clicks like an OM and/or the Large frame NM (Stop rotation just before the click to load and unload. A process I am intimately familiar with and able to accomplish without thought) and like all the NMs and Vaqs retains the 6 shot capability and safety of loading/unloading with the hammer down.

 

[Sharps40]

Stainless steel Bisley trigger on the left. A larger loop to cradle and control the finger a bit better. Also, stainless, no rust. So, a bit of work on the engagement surfaces with stones and very fine silicon carbide wet/dry paper and its ready to install....almost.

First, the trigger opening in the frame has to be opened, forward, by about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. A bit of work on the drill press and then with needle files. The bare insides cold blued for now as the gun go's thru its paces on the customizing bench. But, here the slot is about 99%.

Later this nice chunk of Moroso aluminum fuel line (3/8" OD and about 1/4 ID) will become the new foot for the mainspring and its strut, replacing the quarrelsome and always inaccessible (as long as the grips are installed) Ruger Lock.

The new SS Bisley trigger in the gun and all fitted. Its toe needed a bit of shortening and recontouring to clear the inside of trigger guard loop. Its a good fit in the hand carved slot and looks good installed.

And now, the advantage of the Bisley trigger. When the hammer is back and the sear locked in its notch, the Bisley trigger is even closer to the grip. Combine that with the Colt/XR3 grip frame of this model and we have a length of pull suited to normal and even short length fingers. That plus the trigger wraps around the finger and positions it the same way each and every time....Lovely!

And finally.....the factory trigger read 5lbs 6 oz with both spring legs hooked up....2lbs 8 oz with one spring leg disconnected. Here with the SS Bisley trigger, lightly fitted and installed, 3 lbs 4 oz with both spring legs hooked up. No creep, no grit. No need for one spring leg to be left unhooked. Just light polish and deburring in the right places and the Ruger trigger becomes quite manageable. Time to get back to the range and try it out on steel!

 

[7pt62THOR]

Subscribed for yet another single action lesson taught by the Jedi Master!

 

[Sharps40]

But.....now I get to put all my learnins in one package....only the stuff I liked bestist so far.

 

[Sharps40]

With the lock removed a temporary foot for the spring and strut is made up from aluminum tube. Functional but ugly. But, it can serve as a template for making up a functional foot from flat steel stock or 1/4" id steel square tubing. Once a steel part is made (and with the lock in the pretty red box) there will be exactly zero aluminum parts on the gun.

 

[Sharps40]

I am satisfied though. The fake ivory grips will eventually go. Scratched em up good working in the garage this weekend. On a goof, buffed most of the scar out, then had to rub it back out with fff compound by hand. To easily scratched and they look just like white plastic. Even tried aging them and nitric acid based stain won't even touch them, not even with gentle heating. So, wood later I am sure unless I can find real gutta percha grips or maybe some nice buffalo horn.

 

[Bottoms polaris]

Nice thread

 

[Sharps40]

Never throw away extra parts. This, a spacer from a Class III Hitch. Just about right for forming up a foot for the mainspring and strut. First, roughing in a groove, just shy of 1/4" wide with the grinder....then some hand filing to square up and straighten the inside dimensions.

Cut off what I need. A few drops of 3 in 1 oil eases the work, makes a smoother cut and smells darn fine. 3 in 1 should be an aftershave too.

After forming the slot for the strut and cross drilling a take down pin hole and a bit of final thinning and shaping, the new mainspring foot on the gun and perfect function. Steel. I'll blue it later after the finish work. Also shown is some experimentation with long tall slotted front sight ramps. I have wanted a ramp that covers most or all of the 12 oclock position on the barrel of a handgun. These from Numrich, $4.50ish each have plenty of meat for sculpting and slotting or dovetailing. They can also be sweated on or drilled and screwed to a barrel.

Sight options I have on hand. 1/4 wide sight beads on a .3" wide ramp. I can taper the ramp to match or even leave it a bit wide so there is windage capability on a dovetailed front sight. Other option is to utilize a slotted ramp for pinned in blades.

A quick set of photos to show how much of a shortened barrel will be taken up by these 2.260" long ramps. And, if I decide for something different, the ramps can always be shortened and recontoured.

This would be the relative position of the ramp on a 3" or 3 1/8" barrel.