Tikka muzzle threads

[cmshoot]

I would buy the 20" and have it cut to 17" or 18" myself.

Wait...I have done that before ...lol

Here is an article on the muzzle bellowing out with 5/8x24 threads.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/

Also I ran some numbers and think it can be cut to 5/8x24 but your smith has no room for error.

When I cut, crown, and thread, I ALWAYS treat it like I have no room for error!

 

[Winterborne]

I was not implying that you would bubba your barrel.

A cutters/bits can chatter or break at the worst of times.
I was witness to a transformer blowing up and causing all kinds of havok in a machine shop.

The better shops almost always use new cutters/bits on finesse jobs.

 

[Winterborne]

Oh and I didn't mention before.

After many years of running guns from 12" to 30" barrels I don't like any round that has around 40 gr case capacity in a barrel shorter than 17"/18".
If I go shorter I use a different cartridge.
I despise a 16" .308 with out a can.

 

[cmshoot]

Oh and I didn't mention before.

After many years of running guns from 12" to 30" barrels I don't like any round that has around 40 gr case capacity in a barrel shorter than 17"/18".
If I go shorter I use a different cartridge.
I despise a 16" .308 with out a can.

It’s capable, though. I’ve run a 16” .308 gas gun past 1,000yds.

 

[Winterborne]

OK..the 18mm with about .5 mm thread depth has substantial meat on the 5/8x24.
Pease look over the poor pictures as my camera/phone skills
are lacking.

The thread depth with my shaking hand and caliper was about .5 mm so would probly be a full 1mm with a better /thinner caliper.

The first picture has the inch and metric measurement for each with thread depth the same for both.

Oh..and I dropped the 18 mm thread protector on the 5/8 and could see daylight all the way around it.

Still not much room to work with imho.

 

[cmshoot]

Thanks.